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Added another fan, still running hot, now what?

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Old 08-23-2006, 05:57 PM
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Default Added another fan, still running hot, now what?

I'm still fighting an overheat problem, today I added another fan to my ATI shroud, a Spal 9" puller, I would say it helped a little but its still over 210 and would keep climbing if I let it. Oddly, I think it gets hotter on the open road at speed. I guess at this point I could add a bigger/better radiator, but alot of guys have been able to make this work. That stock radiator is pretty small, but its not even that hot here (85 I think) and I'm not even beating on it at all. I know its an airflow issue because even my tranny runs hotter than ever, and my cooler hasn't been moved. I emailed Meziere to see if my pump could even cause this type of issue, but they never got back to me, guess I better call them. I would really like to be able to drive this thing, as it is I can go a little ways, but not very far. I'm not looking for it to run ice cold with the A/C on on 100 degree days, but under 200 on 80 degree days with no A/C isn't unreasonable in my book. Should I buy a radiator?
Old 08-23-2006, 10:39 PM
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Did you have the tranny lines by pass the radiator and go straight to the cooler? Because running a high stall through that paper radiator will heat up things super quick.
Old 08-23-2006, 10:52 PM
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No, they are still in there. I was going to bypass the radiator and didn't. My tranny never got very warm until this new setup went in. I went from a 4200 Yank to a 3600 Triple disk PI. Thought smaller convertor= less heat? I can't figure out if the tranny is adding heat or if the radiator is adding heat to the tranny? I also want to remove the power steering cooler from the sytem, how do I do that? What fittings do I need to loop the lines back together?
Old 08-24-2006, 12:28 AM
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You dont need any fittings. Just take the line coming from the steering rack and hook it to the bottom of the power steering reservoir and do away with the other line going to the cooler. Its self explanatory when you get to looking at it. Hope this helps.
Old 08-24-2006, 04:58 AM
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We install ATI ProChargers on F body's all the time, and do they do not overheat while driving down the road. Stop and go in 100 degree heat is the only time we have experienced problems, and the extra fan you installed should take care of that. You could have an air pocket trapped in the coolent system, or possibly a stuck thermostat. The Meziere pump uses a standard type of thermostat, you don't still have the stock one in there, do you? Bob
Old 08-24-2006, 07:19 AM
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1st) Have you opened up your front end? Meaning take off the stock grill & cut out the material behind it so you can flow air?
Have you gotten a 160 stat?
Have you reprogramed your fans?

2nd) Get rid of the EWP and put a mechanical pump in there. EWP's flow way less above idle than mechanical pumps and if you drive your car hard you are going to need the extra flow.
Rearrange your tranny cooler setup- some people put fans on there tranny coolers also.

Also, 210 in 85 degrees is not real bad. If it goes way up from there then it's an issue. If you can run your a/c at 220, that's not that bad either, but if your 228+ then I'd say it's an issue.

I bet that heat extractors in your hood would help a lot also. As soon as someone makes a non-ramair hood w/ heat extractors I'm all over it.
Old 08-24-2006, 09:53 AM
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OK, lets see here:

I have a 160 degree stat, verified good.
Fans are running at the correct on temps.
No air in the system that I can find anyway.
EWP will actually help the car because they flow alot more coolant at low speeds, which is where I do most of my driving.
The whole front grill area has been cut out, but the ic is taking up most of the room.
I have a 4" cowl hood, can't extract much more heat than that.


The car got up to 214 yesterday, and probably would have gone higher if I let it.

I wasn't using the A/C. Apparently I'll never be able to use the A/C, unless its 60 degrees out. Kinda pointless.


Will a bigger/better radiator help enough to matter? I don't have any way of getting more air into the radiator now, theres just too much **** in the way. I will delete the coolers from the system, but I doubt that'll matter much. I don't want to spend a ton of $$$ on a radiator if its not going to help.
Old 08-24-2006, 10:41 AM
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Pull the fans off and cruise down a street at 65mph or so.If the car is still running hot you have an issue with the radiator or the front end not letting enough air to the radiator.If the temp goes down the fan assembly isn't letting enough air in.
Old 08-24-2006, 10:55 AM
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OLD school thinking here. If the car gets hotter while driving down the road.
2 options as long as the core is good.
1) not enought air getting to or throu, as SLowhawk mentioned.
2) check your hoses. Rev the engine and see if you have a hose colapsing.

This problem I seen on old sbc when the hoses where just junk/old they bottom one could colapse at hi pump speeds, just an idea.

Ricky
Old 08-24-2006, 10:55 AM
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I wouldn't even be able to get the car to a spot where I could go 65 mph w/o the fans because it would overheat before I got there. I haven't tried running high speeds (60+) for a very extended amount of time, maybe after a few minutes it would start cooling off.

On my GN, the aluminum radiator helped a ton when I went to a fmic. Its just alot of money for an experiment. Who makes the best aluminum radiator that will fit in the stock location with the condenser and procharger?
Old 08-24-2006, 12:14 PM
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You have a car that makes over 900 hp at the crank. Sometimes there might have to be a compromise. Running the A/C when it's hot outside may be one of them. Check the radiator/condensor area for debris. I don't think that those 2 parts were removed when your project was being worked on.I would check the thermostat... change it actually and drill two small holes in it for added cooling. I did that on my LT1. Change the mixture of your coolant. The more water, the better cooling. Maybe a 40/60 or a 30/70(coolant/water) mix might do the trick. I used a Fluidyne radiator... that's an option. It dropped right in with no modifications. Put in a couple bottles of Redline Water Wetter. I know that there are a couple of other companies that make a similar product. You could always go with Evans Cooling coolant... it is suppossed to be the cat's meow. It's around $30 a gallon.



Evan's cooling
Old 08-24-2006, 03:20 PM
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I should have had Dan just use the Evans stuff, but he was saying like $300 to do it. I wonder if its Ok to use my EWP and existing radiator with it? I know on some apps you have to use their pump. Hell, I would only need what, 2 or 3 gallons? Thats not bad considering how much a radiator would cost me. I was just checking stuff out, theres just no airflow to the radiator. I am going to clean between the condensor and radiator, I blew it out yesterday with the air hose and got some dust, but I'll hit it with the water hose and see if it gets better.
Old 08-24-2006, 04:12 PM
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I'm assuming you still have the airdam on right??
Old 08-24-2006, 08:25 PM
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Yes, airdam is on, but not very functional due the ic being so close to it.
Old 08-24-2006, 11:36 PM
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Just make sure that you flush the cooling system before putting in the Evans.
Old 08-25-2006, 05:07 AM
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This may sound stupid, but make sure the fans are wired correctly, drawing air through the radiator. It is very easy to wire them up wrong, to where they are blowing forward, I have seen it happen several times. Bob
Old 08-25-2006, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by TS6
Yes, airdam is on, but not very functional due the ic being so close to it.

Can you post a pic of that? If the airdam is obstructed, that's your problem. Stock radiator is fine at cruising speeds IF it gets proper airflow. IF it gets proper airflow, you don't need any fan help at cruise.....sounds like you've diverted the airflow from the airdam OR you've cut the triangular shroud that forces the airflow through the radiator after it comes up from the airdam. Look up from the airdam....is the area in front of the radiator sealed...or holes from the ic tube, etc?
Old 08-25-2006, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by onfire
Can you post a pic of that? If the airdam is obstructed, that's your problem. Stock radiator is fine at cruising speeds IF it gets proper airflow. IF it gets proper airflow, you don't need any fan help at cruise.....sounds like you've diverted the airflow from the airdam OR you've cut the triangular shroud that forces the airflow through the radiator after it comes up from the airdam. Look up from the airdam....is the area in front of the radiator sealed...or holes from the ic tube, etc?

All the shrouding is gone, had to lose it for the ic and its piping. All the original air routing is gone. If you look up at the bottom of my car, from underneath, the ic is about 1.5" from the core support, and the airdam is hooked to the core support in the stock location. So basically all my airflow has to come from the opening in the front bumper, which is blocked most of the way off by the ic. Its a big ic. I think I almost need a bigger hole in the front of the car, which isn't very practical. Plus the air probably wouldn't get to where it needs to go anyway.
Old 08-25-2006, 01:24 PM
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I have a huge intercooler, A/C, air dam, no shrouding or anything else for that matter. But I have a Fluidyne Radiator. I would venture to say that my intercooler is bigger, but my opening is a little bit smaller. I angled the intercooler forward a little bit for better airflow (at least that's what I think). Highway driving the temps are in the 180s according the the F.A.S.T. Stop and go when it's warm and the temps will get into the 200s. Never above 215. I don't go by the factory gauge... you might not want to go by the factory gauge either.











Old 08-25-2006, 02:45 PM
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So all your air is coming through your ic, correct? My ic has bigger tanks but a smaller core, yours probably flows more air than mine does.

I might look into a better radiator, I just wonder how much it can help.



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