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Trans overheating

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Old 08-26-2006, 11:53 PM
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Default Trans overheating

I did run a search, read all the threads, but still am kinda stumped on my tranny. It's a 700r4 with 3500 stall, non lockup. Tonight I went to the local cruise in and after about 20 miles of driving or so, my tranny temps start heading upwards of 220 and at 250 by the time I parked. Outside temp was about 90 and my engine temp was about 200 as well. Coming home, temp had dropped to about 70 and trans temp was down to 210 and engine to about 175. I have two auxilary transmission coolers, Derale pan, temp sender in the pressure test port. I have no way to verify temp with PCM, obviously. I have the coolers on the front of the radiator, no condenser. Looks to me like they could cool well there. I will double check my fluid level tomorrow. Not sure why I am running so hot.
Old 08-27-2006, 07:00 AM
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Something I thought of later is that my engine oil temp seems to run neck and neck with trans temp....... I'm going to check the PNs for the temp senders.
Old 08-28-2006, 08:57 PM
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With a 3500 stall non lockup its gonna get warm in od particularly at lower speeds bellow stall , The trans if it has not been allready must have the pr valve modified for full time lube , A large cooler with a fan is a must maybe two would be advised , and do not run through the cooler in the radiator this only ads to the heat your producing ,
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Old 08-28-2006, 10:17 PM
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I had gotten some of this same info from others on this board. I was not aware of how hard the non lockup converter has to work in OD. I plan on getting a cooler with fan, do not have cooler in radiator (factory M6 car). Which valve is it exactly? Is this an in car mod? I plan on piecing together a 4l80e setup soon. Thanks!
Old 08-29-2006, 10:11 PM
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from what I've researched, you can have flow problems if you disconnect the in-rad cooler. I am running dual coolers in front of my CAI kit.

For more accurate temps......make a junction into the transmission coolant EXITING lines. If you are reading 250 from there, the actual temp is probably 260 or 265. I'll try and post some pics of the junction I had made for mine. Its much more accurate reading of the temperature.
Old 08-29-2006, 10:56 PM
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its a simple mod , an can be done in car but a little messy , if you want instructions email me
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Old 08-30-2006, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
from what I've researched, you can have flow problems if you disconnect the in-rad cooler. I am running dual coolers in front of my CAI kit.

For more accurate temps......make a junction into the transmission coolant EXITING lines. If you are reading 250 from there, the actual temp is probably 260 or 265. I'll try and post some pics of the junction I had made for mine. Its much more accurate reading of the temperature.
I do not have an A4 radiator. I am running dual coolers in front of the radiator. Sender is installed in pressure test port.
Old 08-30-2006, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by performabuilt.com
its a simple mod , an can be done in car but a little messy , if you want instructions email me
performabuilt
Not sure if I would do this mod or not. I am somewhat piecing together a 4l80e setup. At most I would buy a cooler with a fan for the future setup. I was looking at a Permacool with a 1250 cfm fan. If that won't cool it, then I'll just keep an eye on it til the 80 goes in. I have a guy looking for one for me today.
Old 08-30-2006, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dhdenney
I do not have an A4 radiator. I am running dual coolers in front of the radiator. Sender is installed in pressure test port.
what i'm trying to say is that you are not getting accurate temperature readings with the sender in the pressure test port. Your gauge will read LESS than the actual temp.
Old 08-30-2006, 07:18 PM
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Many said the pressure test port was accurate but I have no way to verify. Regardless though, whether it's just 250 or all the way up to 270, it's gotta be cooled. I'll try the big fan, if that doesn't work, hold out for the big 80E.
Old 08-30-2006, 07:52 PM
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no need to verify. Personal experience. My first temp sender unit was in that location, and by the advising of the trans builder, we relocated it to the exiting coolant lines. There was an immediate difference in all temperature readings (about 10-15 deg hotter).

Think about it, the coolant coming out of the tranny is a better indication of its temperature than the other side of the tranny where the coolant doesn't flow the same. It can be important, cuz once the fluid gets too hot (i believe 245 or 250) it becomes burnt and will not cool as effectively.

The fan idea is good, but not on the freeway, it will cause more turbulance than cooling. But around town it should help a lot.
Old 08-31-2006, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
no need to verify. Personal experience. My first temp sender unit was in that location, and by the advising of the trans builder, we relocated it to the exiting coolant lines. There was an immediate difference in all temperature readings (about 10-15 deg hotter).

Think about it, the coolant coming out of the tranny is a better indication of its temperature than the other side of the tranny where the coolant doesn't flow the same. It can be important, cuz once the fluid gets too hot (i believe 245 or 250) it becomes burnt and will not cool as effectively.

The fan idea is good, but not on the freeway, it will cause more turbulance than cooling. But around town it should help a lot.
I may put the fan on a switch in that case. Hopefully I'll talk to that guy today and maybe he came up with a 4l80e for me.
Old 08-31-2006, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by dhdenney
I may put the fan on a switch in that case. Hopefully I'll talk to that guy today and maybe he came up with a 4l80e for me.
if you have the room, put some space btwn the fan and the cooler, that way when the fan is off, its not blocking any air from the cooler.

Another suggestion, (if you AutoX) is get a water sprayer kit, and spray the fins with water to keep them cool.
Old 08-31-2006, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
if you have the room, put some space btwn the fan and the cooler, that way when the fan is off, its not blocking any air from the cooler.

Another suggestion, (if you AutoX) is get a water sprayer kit, and spray the fins with water to keep them cool.

No autocross here. Just street/strip car. No more than I drive it (other than that one night), hopefully it won't be getting too hot. I am sure the fan will help, but it will still be a welcome item on my potential trans setup.




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