3" ORY to 4" I-pipe, Cutout, into SLP Dual/Dual pics!
08-27-2006, 02:39 AM
#1
3" ORY to 4" I-pipe, Cutout, into SLP Dual/Dual pics! So I got tired of the duals. I wanted a silent cruiser, and then nasty loud at the flip of a switch. The duals were right in the middle, and I was ready for a change. Since I've always wanted nicer headers, I said screw it and wen't ***** deep on the Kooks 1-7/8's as well as their stainless y-pipe. Speed Engineering cut me a GREAT deal on them, so I pulled the trigger. McCord power plate came from BYUNSpeed as well as the Percy's Seal-4-Good gaskets. 4" bullet and mandrel tubing came from Summit and the gaskets/VHT spraypaint came from Autozone.
Anyway, here's the skinny. It's a 3" ORY that dumps into a 4" merge, which runs into a 4" bullet, then it has a cutout after the bullet, then it goes into a 4" x 3" reducer, then goes over the axle to an SLP dual/dual I bought from a board member. The guy had taken it off his 22k mile Firehawk.
The headers gave me absolute HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL on install. For the driver side, I had to grind the K-member, unbolt BOTH motor mount pedestals, jack up the motor untill the manifold hit the cowl, and remove the steering shaft. I probably didn't need to grind the K-member if I was going to jack up the motor, but oh well. The passenger side slid in like butter, but was resting on the K-member in 2 spots. 20 minutes with a grinder took care of that problem. The y-pipe WILL NOT EVER NEVER EVER go together with the headers bolted up snug, so I ended up unbolting-rebolting the headers at least 15 times (no exaggeration) to get the y-pipe riding right. The 4" was resting on the inside of the tunnel untill I cut the middle y-pipe slip fit down some to bring it toward the driveshaft. The 90* on the driver side, right before the y-pipe goes behind the tranny had to be flattened with a hammer to stop the touching. My poly motor mounts are probably responsible for it hitting at first (they raise the engine a bit). The Percy's gaskets have worked FLAWLESSLY.
I got it 90* together and got tired of ******* with it. I worked on it for a week plus 2 weekends fighting EVERYTHING from rain (5 days of it) to whatever else you can imagine. No carport (thanks hurricane Rita) and blazing 105* temps. I made every single cut with a 4" angle grinder, I now have about 15 junk'd grinder wheels lol. Overall, the install sucked, but it's nice now.
It is quieter than stock while crusing around with the cutout closed (bullet I pipe AND SLP dual/dual will get you that lol). Open the cutout and it sounds raunchy. The system is not touching the body ANYWHERE cept, the wire coming out of the cutout. It's only supported by the headers, and a hanger on each side in the back, so there's 0 vibrations. It can't even spell rasp. I'll get some videos of it up soon, hopefully I won't pull a Jordan.
Note: The black gaskets are the Percy's carbon seals that actually come with the Kooks headers, they are pimp, but the seal-4-good's are pimpiner.
Got clearance? The coke can is UNDER the bullet and the cutout, keep in mind the car is lowered about 1" in the rear.
Here's the passenger side of the y-pipe.
Here's the two most popular "banging zones" of most people's Y-pipes. You can see how close it is here and I have absolutly no banging at all. Poly motor mounts FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111eleven
I put so many flanges in so I could unbolt it from after the reducer, put a turndown on it, then open the cutout, and remove the muffler and stuff for the perfect drag strip setup.
You can see the BFH mods that went down on the driveshaft tunnel. That bullet is 5" OD where the packing is! LLLLLLLLLLLLLLike a glovvvvvvvvvvveee.
Here's where I wired the cutout up at (thanks Jimmyblue), and also a video of it in action.
Sound clip!
Click here to watch TheBlurLS1s-exhaust-232007
Anyway, here's the skinny. It's a 3" ORY that dumps into a 4" merge, which runs into a 4" bullet, then it has a cutout after the bullet, then it goes into a 4" x 3" reducer, then goes over the axle to an SLP dual/dual I bought from a board member. The guy had taken it off his 22k mile Firehawk.
The headers gave me absolute HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL on install. For the driver side, I had to grind the K-member, unbolt BOTH motor mount pedestals, jack up the motor untill the manifold hit the cowl, and remove the steering shaft. I probably didn't need to grind the K-member if I was going to jack up the motor, but oh well. The passenger side slid in like butter, but was resting on the K-member in 2 spots. 20 minutes with a grinder took care of that problem. The y-pipe WILL NOT EVER NEVER EVER go together with the headers bolted up snug, so I ended up unbolting-rebolting the headers at least 15 times (no exaggeration) to get the y-pipe riding right. The 4" was resting on the inside of the tunnel untill I cut the middle y-pipe slip fit down some to bring it toward the driveshaft. The 90* on the driver side, right before the y-pipe goes behind the tranny had to be flattened with a hammer to stop the touching. My poly motor mounts are probably responsible for it hitting at first (they raise the engine a bit). The Percy's gaskets have worked FLAWLESSLY.
I got it 90* together and got tired of ******* with it. I worked on it for a week plus 2 weekends fighting EVERYTHING from rain (5 days of it) to whatever else you can imagine. No carport (thanks hurricane Rita) and blazing 105* temps. I made every single cut with a 4" angle grinder, I now have about 15 junk'd grinder wheels lol. Overall, the install sucked, but it's nice now.
It is quieter than stock while crusing around with the cutout closed (bullet I pipe AND SLP dual/dual will get you that lol). Open the cutout and it sounds raunchy. The system is not touching the body ANYWHERE cept, the wire coming out of the cutout. It's only supported by the headers, and a hanger on each side in the back, so there's 0 vibrations. It can't even spell rasp. I'll get some videos of it up soon, hopefully I won't pull a Jordan.
Note: The black gaskets are the Percy's carbon seals that actually come with the Kooks headers, they are pimp, but the seal-4-good's are pimpiner.
Got clearance? The coke can is UNDER the bullet and the cutout, keep in mind the car is lowered about 1" in the rear.
Here's the passenger side of the y-pipe.
Here's the two most popular "banging zones" of most people's Y-pipes. You can see how close it is here and I have absolutly no banging at all. Poly motor mounts FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111eleven
I put so many flanges in so I could unbolt it from after the reducer, put a turndown on it, then open the cutout, and remove the muffler and stuff for the perfect drag strip setup.
You can see the BFH mods that went down on the driveshaft tunnel. That bullet is 5" OD where the packing is! LLLLLLLLLLLLLLike a glovvvvvvvvvvveee.
Here's where I wired the cutout up at (thanks Jimmyblue), and also a video of it in action.
Sound clip!
Click here to watch TheBlurLS1s-exhaust-232007
Last edited by TheBlurLS1; 02-05-2007 at 01:47 AM.
08-27-2006, 06:39 AM
#3
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Nice! I'm waiting on my Kooks Y for a similar set-up. 1 7/8, 3 to 4" Y, single 4" cut out, into a 4" mufflex single tip catback with Flowmaster. I'm sweating the Y pipe install after hearing your issues.
08-27-2006, 10:22 AM
#5
Big red, da **** kind of soda you drinking in TX? Looks sick man I got about that much clearance on my duals... but I'm not lowered... and it bangs... poly mounts in the spring with cam 
Bet you've surprised many an unsuspecting person with the setup
-J
Bet you've surprised many an unsuspecting person with the setup -J
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So where is a sound clip. i thought you were kidding when you said that you had a y pipe 
08-27-2006, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by iamsickofitall
that's exactly what i was thinking
I wish the kooks y-pipe came in stainless back when I ordered mine.
Everything looks really good though.
08-27-2006, 10:15 PM
#13
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I don't think I can even get a Coke can to roll under my true-dual setup...And that's it laying on its side. Yeah, I'm not lowered either 
I really need to figure something out. Everything looks great though!
I really need to figure something out. Everything looks great though! 
08-27-2006, 10:39 PM
#15
Originally Posted by JBM
Nice! I'm waiting on my Kooks Y for a similar set-up. 1 7/8, 3 to 4" Y, single 4" cut out, into a 4" mufflex single tip catback with Flowmaster. I'm sweating the Y pipe install after hearing your issues.
For the driver side header, I removed all 4 motor mount pedestal bolts from the driver side (where it bolts to the K-member), then got the ones on the passenger side to where there was only about 2 threads holding them in. I then put a phone book on my jack, put it under the oilpan/bellhousing, and jacked it up. You might be able to slide it in without removing the steering linkage, so I'd try before I removed it.
Slide the passenger side in and bolt it up, then mark where you'll need to grind, then remove it and grind away. Spray a little engine paint or something on the k-member where you went nuts on it.
Put all the header bolts in and leave them loose, then try to put the y-pipe together. If the 4" hits the tunnel, remove the driver side portion and cut a bit off of the middle slip joint so the driver side move away from the tunnel.
BTW, where in the HELL did you find a 4" cutout? Or are you just going to make one?
Originally Posted by lastcall190
Big red, da **** kind of soda you drinking in TX?
Big Red is crazy good. It's made by 7up. My relatives from Colorado buy like 10 cases of it when they come down, they can't get enough of the ****!
Originally Posted by HeapaShifter
I wish the kooks y-pipe came in stainless back when I ordered mine.
Thanks for all the compliments guys! I really did alot of work to get it riding that high. If I never fabricate another exhaust system in my life I'll die happy. The next one I do fabricate will be dumping into a big hair dryer.
The duals and Pacesetters are going up for sale, one of the mods said he might want the Pacesetters once I got pics of them, but after that they are fair game. I'll post a thread in the for sale section and a link to it from here when I get around to it.
08-28-2006, 08:55 AM
#17
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Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
PS - Codename for this exhaust is.
"Silent but deadly...."
And no making fun of my welds, I'd never welded before and was using a flux-core 110v mig machine.
"Silent but deadly...."
And no making fun of my welds, I'd never welded before and was using a flux-core 110v mig machine.
, it looks good man.
08-28-2006, 12:28 PM
#18
That setup looks familiar, had the same thing on my car since March. I used a dynomax muffler in the back and it quieted it down ALOT, but also killed flow. I just bought a dual/dual from a member too and it's supposed to be in today. I have a 3.5" dmh cutout on my system though after the 4" bullet. I love being able to be quiet and loud as hell at the flip of a switch! The 4" bullet sounds rowwwdy with a trex, sounds nearly identical to duals.
08-28-2006, 10:27 PM
#20
I cant speak for theblurls1, but I did it to get rid of the raspy noise you get from a cutout with just straight pipe in front of it. You think it's bad with a 3" cutout, but with the 4" pipe in front it just makes it even more loud and raw sounding. Its cool, but you can't even cruise with it open...it really is unbearable. The 4" bullet allows alot of volume to go thru but it's much more refined sounding and that makes it more tolerable when you wanna make more noise.