whoo hooo assembled short block today
09-04-2006, 09:20 PM
#1
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whoo hooo assembled short block today yeah so i got my first short block put together today. im glad i got it together. i actually managed to get the cam degree'd right on the first try. i surprised my self actually. however i did do one thing wrong. when i was putting the pistons in the motor i kinda messed up and got misoriented. i actually put all the pistons in upside down and on the other side of the block than they were when they were taken out. 
oops. i didn't even realize it until i got everything torqued down. any way everything turns over just fine and i dont see that it would cause any problems. what do ya'll think? i really dont want to pull'em all out and redo it because my ring compressor totally brings tha suck.
oops. i didn't even realize it until i got everything torqued down. any way everything turns over just fine and i dont see that it would cause any problems. what do ya'll think? i really dont want to pull'em all out and redo it because my ring compressor totally brings tha suck. 
09-04-2006, 11:58 PM
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If the pistons arent dished/domed a certain way or have valve reliefs cut in them then it wont matter but if they arent flat tops then you need to orientate them right.
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09-05-2006, 09:36 AM
#8
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You didn't get the assembly balanced and shortblock bluprinted. I would send the parts to be balanced then assembled by a shop.
Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; 09-05-2006 at 02:22 PM. Reason: halfbreed interpretation.
09-05-2006, 12:24 PM
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yeah the dots are facing forward i just put them in on the wrong side of the block.i.e #1 piston is in cylinder #2. piston #2 is in cylinder number one. i didn't even think of balancing issues. good point Predator. but is this something i should really be concerned with in a motor that will be in a rockcrawler. that will hardly ever see time above 5000 rpm??
09-05-2006, 01:58 PM
#11
Engine rotating assembly balancing is done before building the shortblock. You can’t balance the rotating assembly while it is in the block. Internal - material is removed or added to the crank counterweights. External - the rotating assembly is balanced by using the flywheel/flexplate and/or balancer. The picture below shows a crankshaft being internally balanced. The "bob weights" attached to the crank represent the weight of the piston, rod, bearings, and rings. The crank is spun and material is added or removed to balance it.
Last edited by 98 Silver Bullet; 09-05-2006 at 02:09 PM.
09-05-2006, 02:16 PM
#12
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Yes, pardon my halfbreed interpretation.
but I meant send the crank assembly with balancer and flywheel, all to be put back in at shop for assembly and then blueprinted.
On an internally balanced assembly, you first balance just the crankshaft, then put on the balancer and recheck for balance and it should not change. You then do the same for the flywheel.
I can how what I said, seemed like balance it on the block.
but I meant send the crank assembly with balancer and flywheel, all to be put back in at shop for assembly and then blueprinted.
On an internally balanced assembly, you first balance just the crankshaft, then put on the balancer and recheck for balance and it should not change. You then do the same for the flywheel.
I can how what I said, seemed like balance it on the block.
Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; 09-05-2006 at 02:23 PM.
09-05-2006, 02:51 PM
#13
Launching!
the money you have spent on parts and machine work seems like it would be worth redoing it correctly. i know i would hate having to take it back apart once you have the long and all installed to find out it will not work. i could be completely wrong but doesnt seem worth the risk and time it might take later.
09-05-2006, 03:11 PM
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silver01 you bring up a good point as well. i had not even thought about it in that manner. looks like i know what i'll be doing next weekend. thanx for all the imput guys.
by the way where do you guys get your plastigage?? it seemed a little outrageous the last time i bought it.
by the way where do you guys get your plastigage?? it seemed a little outrageous the last time i bought it.
09-05-2006, 03:30 PM
#15
Originally Posted by JeepinBash
silver01 you bring up a good point as well. i had not even thought about it in that manner. looks like i know what i'll be doing next weekend. thanx for all the imput guys.
by the way where do you guys get your plastigage?? it seemed a little outrageous the last time i bought it.
by the way where do you guys get your plastigage?? it seemed a little outrageous the last time i bought it.
I bought it at vatozone for like $3.xx per stick (it was about 8 inches or so).
09-10-2006, 08:10 PM
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update. i pulled it all apart and got it back together the right way. my machine shop did a damn fine job on the crank. oil clearance on all the rods was exactly .002. exactly where i want it. nice. also got the heads on. only thing left to do is get the front cover gasket ( i was shorted on my gasket kit) install oil pump, and get me a new PCM, then i will have a running motor. i cant wait. i got to get to work tearing apart the ol' heep to make room for the LS-1.
09-10-2006, 08:20 PM
#17
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Well I think it is a good thing you swapped them around. Allthough having them mixed up would not affect the balance, most V8's are built with an offset in the connecting rod (though I admit i have never built an LS1, those came out well after I left the automotive machinist industry) and if they are installed incorrectly will adversely affect your side to side clearance as well as possibly cocking the rod slightly. Much safer to have them installed correctly.
09-11-2006, 12:33 AM
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Is this your first DIY engine build up?
Im thinking about doing my next block myself, but it depends on how much the machine work would cost compared to buying all the guages and tools for putting a block together.
Im thinking about doing my next block myself, but it depends on how much the machine work would cost compared to buying all the guages and tools for putting a block together.
09-11-2006, 08:05 AM
#20
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yep first one. it's really not all that bad putting one together. you can just check main and rod bearing clearance with plastigage. i had both a haynes manual and will handzel's book.