BigDB

do you or do you not have to remove the heads to replace them? i need em since the car smokes on start up. thanks

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

You don't need to remove the heads.

BigDB

so what do i do? pull covers, rockers, springs and then i can get to the seals? Guess ill use compressed air to hold the valves up when taking the springs out

Azrael

iTrader: (10)

Yep, that is it exactly. The 98's had seperate seats and seals so just pull the old seals off and put the new ones on. Make sure you are putting the exhaust seals on the exhaust valves and the intake seals on the intake valves.

Best bet just buy all exhaust valve seals, that way no worries about mixing and matching.

LS1Beginner

Check out ls1howto.com. I just did this job last weekend and the pictures helped out. I used the Crane valve compressor and once I figured out that my springs were too wide for the machined reliefs (had to use the plate upside down) the job went smoothly.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

I prefer to use the TDC method of holding up the valves. Also, when you press on the seals, make sure you feel them hit home. A lot of people dont press hard enough to fully seat them, and they wind up lifting and letting oil through. And yes, use all brown exhaust seals as its easier that way.

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

I also used the TDC method. You can also use a socket to press the seals on with.

Bill

Fratsit

iTrader: (1)

Thats it....I used compressed air and the Tims Tool....worked like a champ. The valves stayed up with 60psi. Just be carefull, you could roll the engine when you apply air to the cylinder, but I was doing a cam swap too so I did not have pushrods in and all spark plugs out.

Cylinders 7 and 8 were a b&%ch to get the seals off due the limited amount of room.

r/

Frat

BigDB

So y is it easier to use the exhaust seals only? and what exactly is the TDC method? does the compression hold the valves up when the piston is at TDC? and how would I know when each cylinder is at TDC after cylinder1? Thanks I really need to replace these seals

BigDB

TTT bump

muncie21

iTrader: (14)

The exhaust seals are rated for the higher exhaust temps. They can be used on the intake also, as it is cooler than the exhaust. It's easier in the fact that you only need to get one set (brown ones) and don't have to worry about what valve you are working with.


Rotate the cylinder that you are working on to TDC. The piston is then close enough to the valve that compressed air isn't needed to keep the valves up as they can only drop a fraction of an inch before hitting the piston.

Easiest way for me is to stick something (preferably not sharp) in the spark plug hole, rotate the engine by hand, and watch for the stick, screwdriver, or whatever you shoved in the hole to rise to it's apex.

BigDB

hey thanks for all the info man. About the TDC method thou, since its hitting the piston is there any chance of bending the valve since its pressing aginst the piston? What about denting it so its untrue and uneven with the valve seat?

muncie21

iTrader: (14)

Gravity won't accelerate the valve to the point of damaging anything

Seriously, I think you are picturing this wrong. Here's what happens:

Move your piston to the top of it's travel (TDC) and then compress the spring and remove the locks. When the valve slips out of the spring compressor, it can only fall (via gravity, not get ejected) a fraction of an inch cause it will hit the piston. Just grab the stem with your fingers and move on.