Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

I've been searching around, and seeing a lot of controversy over the coolant tube configurations on the LS1 and the LS6 pertaining to the #7 cylinder and cooling.

What I haven't seen is what the concensus is. I'm going to be finishing my bolt on extravaganza this weekend, of which this swap is a part of. Seeing the conflicting views on whether to convert to the LS6 pipes or leave the LS1 pipes in place and clearance the LS6 manifold is leaving me wondering what the better option is.

Thoughts???

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

It doesn't have to be done the conventional way. Tying the rear head coolant passages together & runnning them to the radiator is never a bad thing. I did it w/ fuel line hose & 1/8" NPT barbed fittings @ the rear of the heads & plastic high temperature "T" fittings in the hose. Ran hose from rear head port to rear head port (over top of the manifold, then t'd into that line & ran hose along side the injectors & t'd into the hose that goes from the front ridgid head connecting line to the radiator.

Only problems connecting to the rear head coolant passages that I've seen are when the ridgid LS6 crossover tube is run between the rear heads & under the intake. I just wanted to point out that there are other ways to accompish the connection. The hose is covered by the plastic coil/head covers anyway, so why chose to go under the intake?

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

I used a carbide cutter to remove the minimal material on the bottom of my LS6 intake, and it's been fuctioning well since the swap. Guess what my vote would be?

Ben T.

stealthair

Block them off entirely

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

I wasn't about to block them off completely or convert to the newer style. Why hurt coolant flow and possibly trap air bubbles in the heads? Grinding down the intake on the bottom can't be seen by anyone and you can use the stock coolant hose you have connecting it to the radiator then. Not to mention, it will take you all of 10 minutes with a grinder.

Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

Now here's a question?? Has anyone checked to see if grinding those ribs off causes any structural integrity issues with the manifold?

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

That's some thick Nylon 66 on the bottom of the intake. It won't be an issue unless your intake is seeing high PSI, and even then it still shouldn't be.

If it makes you feel any better, F.A.S.T. intakes get ported on all the time.

Ben T.

Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

Well, I did some more searching last night, and I may not have a choice but to do the LS6 steam tubes since I'm swapping to an LS6 valley plate (for the PCV upgrade) at the same time.

HeapaShifter

iTrader: (2)

If you're using the LS6 valley cover, the LS1 steam tube won't work.

Use a second 01+ steam tube on the back and connect them with hose like LS1-450 mentioned. That's how mine is. It works good. I drew a diagram a while back:

CHRIZ28

iTrader: (15)

Don't mean to sound like a 'tard, but why do you have to change the coolant tubes under the intake at all? I bought a ls6 intake a long time ago, before I heard about changing tubes and it worked perfectly, the foam on the bottom of the intake was smashed alittle, but everything looked fine when I removed it to install my FAST intake, which works fine to this day. Just wondering, will be removing it again here soon, so if there is an issue I will change tubes. Thanks, not trying to second guess some of your opinions, just wondering.

Chris

JonPMH53

Maybe I'm a little naive but why bother connecting the back ports at all? Are you guys having problems cooling the back cylinders (i.e. cracking/warping heads)? I know some guys with boosted engines are having issues with the #7 cylinder burning up plugs/valve guides...but didn't the stock LS6 have the blockoff plates? Just wanting to learn what all the fuss is about....

JonPMH53

bump....bump.....bump

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

I havent heard of anyone that broke their intake due to that. I have had mine done for a while now and its fine. I wouldnt sweat it.