A/C Hose Broke, now what?
09-15-2006, 11:23 AM
#1
A/C Hose Broke, now what? The hard metal hose going into top of the A/C consensor broke at the point where it actually goes into the condensor. So all of the pressurized stuff came out, whatever it is. Anyone have the part number for this hose? It also appears to have a sensor of some sort attached to it. Once I replace it, do I need to take it to the dealer for them to recharge the system? Thanks!
09-15-2006, 11:28 AM
#2
I do not have the part number on me, is it the line that comes from the dryer? Yeah, all your refrigerant leaked out, just replace the line ( the sensor I beleive your talking about is the low pressure sensor) and it needs to be evaced and recharged, most service shops have the machines.
09-15-2006, 11:39 AM
#4
10282758 is the part #, LS1 A/C Liquid line. The sensor screws on, so reuse your current one. The line comes with a new oring where is fits into the condensor, but it does not come with a new gasket where is connects to the evaporator. I think the line was 64ish at the dealer and the damn gasket was another 6 bucks.
Since the system has been exposed to atmospheric air for a while, I would replace the dryer as well...another 80 at Oreillys. Its real easy to change the hard line with the accumulator removed. Evac and recharge
Since the system has been exposed to atmospheric air for a while, I would replace the dryer as well...another 80 at Oreillys. Its real easy to change the hard line with the accumulator removed. Evac and recharge
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09-16-2006, 03:39 PM
#9
If your freon has vented already, you can do whatever you want and not have anymore blow out. That is the "liquid line", it actually transfers liquid freon (after the condenser) past the pressure switch, through the orifice tube (expansion device), and into the evaporator inside the car.
You should get a new orifice tube while you're at it, they are about $3 from any autoparts store.
The compressor (dry) usually takes 9oz of oil. Some cars call for some to be put in the compressor directly with some put into the reciever (big aluminum can thing), so you'll need to look that up. You need 1.5lbs of R-134a (says it on the stock lid).
You should get a new orifice tube while you're at it, they are about $3 from any autoparts store.
The compressor (dry) usually takes 9oz of oil. Some cars call for some to be put in the compressor directly with some put into the reciever (big aluminum can thing), so you'll need to look that up. You need 1.5lbs of R-134a (says it on the stock lid).
09-19-2006, 08:18 AM
#12
I just cracked this pipe myself. part number 10282758. gmparts direct had it cheapest. 42 delivered IIRC. Only ordered it a couple days ago.
As for recharging the a/c system: I usually just use two 12oz cans of rf143a that already contain the oil and seal conditioner. Havnt had a problem doing it this way yet.
As for recharging the a/c system: I usually just use two 12oz cans of rf143a that already contain the oil and seal conditioner. Havnt had a problem doing it this way yet.
09-19-2006, 03:18 PM
#15
The system holds 24oz (1.5lbs) of R134 and 9 ozs of oil. The system always needs 24oz of R134, but you don't always need the 9 ozs. It depends on what was replaced in your system. If you didn't swap the compressor, you can just use 24ozs of R134 that include oil and be done with it.
When I did mine, I replaced the compressor with a used unit, the accumulator and the liq line. I added 24oz of straight R134 and 9 ozs of oil, half of the oil in the compressor, and half in the accumulator, that has worked for me.
When I did mine, I replaced the compressor with a used unit, the accumulator and the liq line. I added 24oz of straight R134 and 9 ozs of oil, half of the oil in the compressor, and half in the accumulator, that has worked for me.
09-19-2006, 06:12 PM
#16
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many people here have said evac and charge. You will want to pull a vacum after the initail repairs are done to pull out any moisture in the lines. Usually a 15 minute vacum will do the trick. Then you should charge the system with 1.5lbs of r134a. No need to evacuate the system, that already happened when the line broke.
Evacuate - to remove refrigerant from system
Vacum - to pull any remaining water molecules from system
Charge - to re-fill system with correct amount of refrig.
Evacuate - to remove refrigerant from system
Vacum - to pull any remaining water molecules from system
Charge - to re-fill system with correct amount of refrig.
09-19-2006, 06:31 PM
#17
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cool i was confuse on what it took but thats what i did,used ac comp from ebay empty so i put like 6 oz of oil because im sure the ac comp still has some inside and exactly 1.5lbs of r-134,its cold but not like it use to be any thoughts
09-20-2006, 09:33 AM
#18
Did you vacuum down the system? You may still have a leak in the system. It will be hard to diagnose without a set of a/c manifold gauges. If it starts blowing warm again, you know you have a leak.
A/c was out on my car when I bought it. The first time I recharged, it held, compressed, and cooled, but it was like you described, worked but didn't work great. Took about 2 days and the charge was gone, turns out the front seal on the compressor had dried out and was leaking causing the low high side pressure and poor cooling. Keep and eye on it or get some gauges and monitor your low and high side pressures. Low should be 30-52 and high should be 150-300 depending on temp and humidity
A/c was out on my car when I bought it. The first time I recharged, it held, compressed, and cooled, but it was like you described, worked but didn't work great. Took about 2 days and the charge was gone, turns out the front seal on the compressor had dried out and was leaking causing the low high side pressure and poor cooling. Keep and eye on it or get some gauges and monitor your low and high side pressures. Low should be 30-52 and high should be 150-300 depending on temp and humidity
