shifty`

iTrader: (3)

Nevermind, I ended up picking up gauge part #800199 from Summit and adapter 2242-2-4s from Aeroquip.

something to screw onto the rail was perfect to me.

I have an '01 LS1 if that helps (from WS6)

THANKS!

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Any autoparts store should have one that will screw right on, I know most of the chain parts stores carry them for around $40. I have seen them as cheap as $10 at a discount tool store by me though. Check the loan a tools at the autoparts stores, one of the chains might have them.

ahowudoin

iTrader: (2)

You could use a old r12 a/c low side gauge . Hose will screw on to.

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

Well, I have a Summit right down the road (about 25 mins in no traffic) so I can get one down there for around $17 if I buy their brand.

I kinda wanted something that would fit in my 2" three-way SunPro cluster I got at the store (just swap the voltmeter gauge for the fuel pressure gauge) - I'm plumbed for oil pressure and water temp on my LS1 through that. You can even get some nice AutoMeter gauges on eBay for a fraction of the cost of the store.

Sucky part is everywhere I'm looking only sells these things with a 3' braided line and I need about 5' of line to go from the front of the rail back to my center console.

I suppose something cheap that would attach to the rail would be great, but I'd love to have something in the cabin as well.

dnm12

iTrader: (13)

nate at nasty performance

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Sounds like you want to mount a gauge inside??? You mentioned the 3 gauge panel... I think to mount a fuel pressure gauge inside you have to run an isolator. You dont want raw fuel running inside the cabin to a gauge.

I have an autometer electric FP gauge in my pillar pod. Comes with a sending unit that you put on the fuel rail. You need an -4AN adapter...i think that was the size. But that thing was PRICEY!!! If you want the site name where I get my gauges for pretty cheap, PM me. But summit has good prices as well if its close.

Other wise...the gauge posted in the pics is a nice piece. Liquid filled gauges are

Justin

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

I got the Summit brand white-faced liquid filled gauge today for $15. They had the same silver/reflective liquid filled one above for $16. white face is Summit part number 800199 and the chrome one is PN 800299.

Bad part is, I think it comes with a 1/8 in. NPT male fitting. I am not sure if the other side is -4 AN? Not sure what hte Schrader valve uses.

800199: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

800299: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Both are 0-100 PSI. They also have 0-60PSI, but being that an average required pressure is 50-55, that's really close to 60.

I would like to have a digital inside the dash also, but ... will wait until later. Meanwhile, I just hope that it came with the fittings required to adapt it to my fuel rail (I haven't opened the package yet).

You know what I hate, though? I walked into Summit to buy 1 thing for $20 and walked out spending around $102 for 6 diff't things Aint that a bitch?

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

ok, this thing came with zero fittings. anyone know a part number for the adapter required to stick this on the fuel rail?

Scooter70

iTrader: (1)

Absolutely. Don't run fuel into the passenger cabin. That's just asking for trouble. (And I don't think it's technically legal.) Either keep the gauge outside the car (hood/cowl mounted) or get an electric gauge for inside the car.

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

C'mon guys, I can't have fuel AND oil in my passenger cabin?! What kinda crap is THAT?!

I plan on going electric, but, FTR, I swear I saw someone who makes an isolated hose somewhere. It was fluid filled or something...allowed you to use a pressure gauge like the one I bought without bringing fuel into the cab.

I gotta laught out of frustration - it's hilarious that I can find these stupid custom hoses, but I try and find out what the hell size/thread fitting the stupid low pressure side of my stock power steering box is, or what adapter is needed to mount the fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve, I can't turn up squat (nobody's fault but mine!)

BTW - on the topic of rails and adapters - the Russell Quick connect to AN -6 fitting ( PN RUS-640850 )... everyone is backordered on it everywhere with no clear reasoning why, been that way for months. I finally got frustrated and called their support line to ask them what fck their problem was and the guy was like, "what are you talking about? you can buy directly through us - but at list price of $17!"

so, next time you hear someone kvetching about how they can't find anyone with them in stock, have them call a salesperson at Russell directly and they can order and have it shipped easily. standard ground is $7 and 3 day shipping is $12.50.

ace68

iTrader: (15)

listen to him don't run fule line into the cab that's bad ummkay


it's a -4an on the rail

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

Guys, seriously, I'm not an idiot, I know all of you that have posted in this thread mean well when telling me not to put fuel in the cabin...Thanks for the love - and believe me, I know better. There are lines available to do this w/o putting fuel in the cab for a manual guage, but I would probably want to run an electric gauge.

Anyways, got a fitting from the hydraulic shop down in Forest Park today, Aeroquip 2242-2-4S. Went on the rail fine after removing the valve from inside the rail. Feels like the fitting only went on about 4-5 threads on the gauge though, which is a little disconcerting to me. It says on the gauge it's like ... 1/8 NPTF ... and that Aeroquip fitting is 1/8 NPT to -4 AN. Guess we'll see if I get leaks when I power up the fuel pump. Pulled the gauge off and the threads aren't stripped on either end, so maybe it's just bottoming out?

Glad gas prices are down around the time I'm firing this thing up

Thanks for all the help, love, advice and concern. You guys are being a great assistance to getting me through to firing up - I'm 97% done!

Now if I can just figure out the damned ignition wiring

68shortstep

iTrader: (1)

what ya tring to figure out? since i got mine figured out and can share pics/ help

ace68

iTrader: (15)

I just did a electric gauge it was a 1/8npt male fitting, what I needed to get it done was an 1/8npt female to -4an female. hope that helps.

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

Thanks! I need it.

How did you handle ignition? I have four unused '68 C10 wires leftover from my stock harness:

purple (went to starter sol - pwr in "key START")
pink (went to ign coil, some trucks this is purple/orange - pwr in "key ON")
blue (went to oil pressure dummy gauge - deleted)
??? (went to temp dummy gauge - deleted)

On my reworked harness (Wait4Me Performance), I have three unused wires:

Thin 18-20ga Orange wire - Label: #18 All Time Battery
Thick 10-12ga Purple Wire - Label: #21 Starter Solenoid
Big 12-14ga Red wire - Label: #22 Ignition power when key is on.

Now, logically, I would think I would just take the stock C10 purple wire and run it directly to the starter solenoid and it should crank, then I could take the stock C10 pink wire that went to the ign coil and tie that into #22 red wire. That means I would just need to run a fused "always on: lead to the PCM, and I would have one leftover purple wire.

I hacked the rest of the stock C10 wires to remove the voltage regulator ('01 LS1 uses internally regulated alternatore) and I re-wrapped my lines so that the lighting and other stuff wil work. Battery power to the inside of the truck is still available and attached to the distribution block on the fender well of our trucks (just need to run a jumper from battery to distro block).


I suppose I could contact Wait4Me and ask them. Actually, they may have given me a wiring diagram with the harness, I probably should go look, even through there is no telling where it is after I cleaned up the shop.

I've been searching throught the site trying to find a place with 98-02 wirinig diagrams without much luck. I'm going to go look in the FAQ thread again - but if you have some info, seeing that we have the same truck, that would be really handy

68shortstep

iTrader: (1)

sounds like you have it figured out, with the exception of the starter solenoid.....
so here are a few questions for ya, and a some info on switches ...
on your harness from W4M is there a starter relay, if you were to trace the purple wire back where would it go?
on our trucks the ignition switch was made to handle the power to the starter sol. and runs to the ignition sw. directly to the starter.....
on these newer cars the ign. sw. has a little wire that that gets power when in "crank" and that goes to a relay that then energizes the purple starter sol. wire... thats the concept of it, but theres neutral/safety switches , clutch petal switch, etc....
you probley knew this already tho... so you could use your existing purple wire to go to the starter sol. and it would work fine.... but be sure you're not also energizeing the other purple wire and cause a short....... hope this helps....

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

Ok, I guess that is what I needed to know.

W4M did not leave me a wire labelled "clutch pedal switch", at least I don't think they did. I would need to go look again. There was some "clutch anticipation switch" but I thought that was related to cruise control.

To answer your questions, the W4M harness comes with zero relays and zero fused lines. So, I guess I'm not sure which lines need to be fused or on relays.

If I were to utilize a relay on the thick purple wire to/from/whatever the PCM, what would that look like? If you just want to explain it like:

Input wire = X
Pole A (on with no power) = Y
Pole B (on with power) = Z

I guess that would be the easiest way to explain it.

Also, just so you know, the thick *** purple wire is literally 6 inches....ok, I'm lying. I'm going to need to look at the harness now because I'm remembering those wires are actually reaaaally far forward in the harness. DAMN

Ah well....

(This sucks!)

68shortstep

iTrader: (1)

shifty, i really suck at explaneing things, but i can draw you up a wireing diagram..... and i'll draw it up to use a relay and a clutch switch (so you have to have clutch pushed in to start, if you want) ....... i'll also incorperate your stock wireing so not alot of extra wires will need to be ran.... are you able to read a wireing diagram ( dont take this wrong)?

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

i can read a wiring diagram. Bring it on if posting it here is not an option, then you can email it to me at 68chevy at shifty dot org.

I guess the easiest thing to do would be to make all of the stock wires solid with a color description along the wire (?) and make any wires I'd need to add show up as dashed lines? That is, if it's not a problem.

I really appreciate all of your help. I'll be adding all this stuff to my swap thread for further reference.

I pick up my '02 Silverado 1-1/8" core radiator tomorrow from NAPA ($300, since UPS damaged my '05 Yukon police package radiator!). Can't wait to get it home and install it Cooling system is next in line! Thought I'd never get there... (time to go buy a half dozen Bosch relays )

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

By the way , I does anyone else's fuel pressure gauge have this much thread showing after you screwed on your adapter?



Just for fun, here's an installed pic: