N4cer

iTrader: (11)

Hey guys. I hear everyone say that as far as RPMs go, the weak point on our cars is the rod bolts. So what all does it take to change rod bolts? Basically a rebuild? Or can you just swap the bolts without messing with the bearings, etc.?

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

You can change the bolts by just dropping the oil pan one bolt at a time , If you are looking for some bolts i have a slightly used set of ARP 2000 rod bolt for stock rods. They were in my motor for a bout a month, there in perfect shape and don't need to be stretched like a brand new set ,tork and retork three times to get the stretch out. ill take $50.00 for them pm me if you want them.

cvman

Don't you have to resize the rod end when changing rod bolts?

weaponZ

iTrader: (11)

Smokin87TA

iTrader: (183)

Do a search on rod bolts, but im pretty sure most people dont resize them. Katech doesnt say you have to with theirs, ARP just says that so they are covered if anything goes wrong.

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

No need to resize on LS1 cracked rods.

PREDATOR-Z

FYI, Katech bolt (although a little more expensive) are a better choice for a on motor swap. Just remove ferrule and trq once to 50lbs and that is it. The design is a clone of stock but with higher tensile strength.

cvman

Good information! I have a lot to learn about Gen III engines............

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

I'm curious, what's the difference between the Katech bolts and the ARP bolts in so far as you saying they are easier to install for an on motor swap? (cause you don't have to stretch them by torquing them down 3 times I assume?)

Also, are the ARP bolts stronger, like if you were wanting to spin to 7300 RPM lets say would the ARP's be the ones to go with or would the Katech's still be okay?

Thanks!

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

ARP's are cheaper. ARP's fit fine. YES, you have to torque the ARP's 3 times. To me that wasn't a factor. Who cares? I figured I have the motor out of the friggin' car, surely I can torque the bolts.

I'm sure the Katech's are of the same or better quality. Katech is a great company with great products. But the ARP's work fine and I've never heard of an ARP rod bolt failure.

Supposedly the ARP bolts are a different size than the stockers. So? If they're matching size to each other, that's all that matters. So I'd love to hear an explanation as to why that matters. I'm aware of the size issue. But what relevance is there in that and any failures? I've never heard of it mattering. It seems more like a marketing ploy than a realistic issue.

I mean, okay, I can kill a fly with a flyswatter (ARP), or with a shotgun (Katech). Is one better than the other for killing the fly? No. Bottom line, fly dies either way. Same for the bolts. Either way, the motor holds together and nobody has any failures from a broken ARP bolt.

Help me out, Predator-Z. Can you shed some light on what ACTUALLY matters in the difference in the bolts.

Bader-X

iTrader: (2)

good questions N4cer

1st didn`t know it can be done while the motor is together.

2nd I also want to know if the other brand is the same strenth or can handle the 7400 RPM

but I`m leaning toward the stock size bolts (maybe it`s just me not wanting a rod that will stretch/widen the thread)

how much for a set? both of them?

I`m keeping an here

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

I'm lost. What do you mean by "a rod that will stretch/widen the thread"? I don't know what that means. The bolts are the same diameter, so I'm not sure what you are saying will happen.

Bader-X

iTrader: (2)

stretching them and getting the stretch out ....
and what you said : Supposedly the ARP bolts are a different size than the stockers.

so what I understood is that they`re a little bigger maybe? and they will stretch or widen the original thread of the rod bolts and you can`t use stock bolts again if you wanted ....

correct me if I`m wrong.

PREDATOR-Z

The bolt head pattern is thicker/wider on ARPs and are capable of throwing the rods "out of round". I has been proven to do so. Which means this will cost you some bearing material upon running the motor.
Failure: No study has been made at the long run to determine such failures.

Kateck is specialy designed as a direct replacement, same design as stock with higher tensile strength. No effect on rods/bearings.

Bottom line, it is up to you, but for the price of a motor, I dished out the extra $$$.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

Does the rod end go "out of round" cause the bolt head pattern is bigger so then it's clamping forces onto that of the cap are different and cause the roundness of where the bearings are at to be "out of round"? Just curious as to what causes the "out of round" to happen.

Also, are the ARP bolts the same mass as the stock ones? It sounds like maybe the Katech ones would be close if not similar but if the ARP's are a different size could they maybe be a different mass?

Thanks!

PREDATOR-Z

Correct. Like I said in PM, a lot of poeple use ARP, but not too many actually measure the effects. There was a thread confirming that effect.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Its true that the katechs are both stronger and closer to the stock bolt dimensions and mass. However dont forget that the factory has a gram or two tolerance in mass between each of the 8 piston and rod assemblies anyway. Not to mention that many people have flycut their pistons and removed a few grams of material without detrimental effects. Im not saying that these things dont have any effect, but i feel it may be splitting hairs.

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

Exactly. Which color of window tint is faster in the quarter mile? LOL!

Phil'sC5vette

iTrader: (4)

I did ARP bolts when I did heads and cam

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

The thing for me though is that taking mass away from the piston might help things since it's less for the rod bolts to have to slow down to a stop and then accelerate. Not saying it won't affect other things in regards to the pistons and the 'system' of how all things works together though, just stating a thought is all, don't know if it's right or wrong.

If you are changing the mass of something spinning at 7K+ RPM 3.62 inches away from the center of that object I wondered if it would have a major effect on things. Not only that but I didn't know how much of a difference in mass there was between the katech and arp rod bolts and even to that of the stock rod bolts for that matter so that's why I mentioned it.

How much do the ARP rod bolts cost? It seems like the $153 the katech bolts, for me personally, seem like the best fit for I'd rather spend $153 on some rod bolts now then suffer the consequences of if one of the stock rod bolts give way or have bearing issues if I happen to have the "out of round" situation happen to me with the ARP rod bolts for with my luck it would probably happen with me for sure.