shifty`

iTrader: (3)

So, I gotta know what you're using for a radiator. I picked up my radiator from NAPA today and it doesn't fit.

So far I have bought:

'05 Yukon radiator (too wide)
'97 Iroc radiator (poor fit)
'02 Silverado radiator (no filler, too deep)

I am at my wits end and I don't know what to do. I have spent nearly $1000 right now until I get credit back a chunk of it.

I gotta know what you did for a radiator, because I can't seem to find anything that will work in my case. I'm going nuts.

Any info you can provide? I'm sooo close to going to Griffin and paying a heap for one that I know will fit.

Dimensions:

32" Overall width (cap to cap)
18¾" Overall height
2¾" Max overall depth

26½" Core width
18½" Core height
1½" Core depth

Of course, should have vertical cap, needs to be reverse flow and have proper connections for 98-02 LS1 water pump.

Anyone - anyone at all - have any advice? I'm seriously like:

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

OK, maybe I'm getting pissed over nothing. I started slamming the crap out of Google about three hours ago and I finally got something that will totally work (fingers crossed) and it's only ~$220 shipped at most places.

31X19 Griffin Universal Chevy Radiator
GRI-1-25272-X (or XS?) at Summit
555-52009 for the Jegs equivalent
Either 1-25272-X (or 6-582AE-BAX?) direct from Griffin
Griffin 125272 everywhere else
Griffin 125272-T for the one w/the tranny cooler lines

Found it pictured here, owe the site owner a big thanks for the excellent pictures.

http://www.iroczone.com/technical/Radiator/

Now, here's to hoping NAPA is going to take this radiator back

PS - I hate when I answer my own questions after posting At least this post is here for an index for others, I guess. More search fodder

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

I got one of these. $180 at Summit.

Overall Width (in): 30.875 in.
Overall Height (in): 19.000 in.
Overall Thickness (in): 2.250 in.

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

Got a part #?
Nevermind, looks at the name of the JPEG: SUM-380331

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Thanks again

68shortstep

iTrader: (1)

reverse flow refers to the water pump i do believe

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

You're correct. Cross flow would pertain to the radiator. I get the two mixed up. I'm a n00b

FirstGen

iTrader: (10)

The LS1 is not reverse flow. Only LT1 was reverse flow. Your factory radiator will work fine. You can use Silverado upper and lower radiator hoses and make those work. It will require some trimming to make them look and fit nicely. I used a 3 core factory GM from my 1968 on my previous 6.0 conversion. 20K miles with AC and never had any issues. If you just wanted to spend more money the summit of Jegs version will work fine also just might not mount the same way...

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, T. Especially for the hose info, that was one of my next questions. I guess I should work something out for the steam vents also, but not sure where to start on that. Guess I'll get a join of some sort and work it into the return hose.

I just got back from Summit, hauled *** down there for lunch. Picked up some wire loom and the Griffin radiator listed above. Looks like it's going to be a direct boltup, and the core size is almost 3x larger than anything stock currently in use.

I will know more when I get home. Once I get it installed, will post pics for archival purposes

glock73110

iTrader: (1)

I went with a Griffin after many shipping F up's seems like it will be OK

jinusow

what about the 85-89 corvette radiator? It has everything you need for a steam vent and if you are running an auto transmission.

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

I've never even seen what one (85-89 Vette rad) looks like. I am running a T56 myself.

I had a lot of people tell me "Get XX radiator for a YYYY! It'll fit, just look at the size numbers!" Then it didn't end up fitting. That cost me almost a quarter of what I paid for the drivetrain - I'm still waiting on refunds and will be for a few weeks. Thankfully, NAPA let me return what I bought from them, I had to resell the Iroc radiator on eBay for about 30% less than I paid for it just to get it off my hands (dealership wouldn't take a return on a special order!), and I am waiting for Schram auto to refund for the busted Yukon radiator:

Lesson learned:

#1: Shop locally to prevent shipping damage and wait time for deliveries.

#2: Take all drivetrain swapping advice people give you with a huge rock of salt if that person hasn't done it and shown you pics -- chances are they don't know wtf they're talking about.

I always appreciate advice though, so don't think I'm shooting you out of the water No insult intended.

PS - that Griffin Radiator is a direct fit and it's good for 400+ HP, so ... wonder what that Vette rad is rated for?

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

Hey jinusow, quick question: How do you like your LS1/T56 combo with those 3.73 gears? I have the same setup in my C10, just wondering what it's gonna feel like? Do you ever use 6th gear? What kind of RPM are you running on the highway in 6th at 80mph? You running a 10-bolt or 12-bolt rear end?

jinusow

It will depend on tires as well. In 6th gear I'm running 2000rpm at 82mph. At 70mph in 6th is 1800rpm. In 5th at 65 I'm at 2500rpm. I'm not 100% but 2nd gear will run up to 55mph at 6000rpm. 4th can get you up to 95-100mph. Fastest it wants to go is about 145mph using predator for speedo. I was planning on doing a video of all this but I've been too sick to get the camera setup and me ready to do it. My opinion is that the 3.73 with t56 gives just the right feel for driving it's quick and you're not running thru 3 gears in 5sec. The funnest thing about a t56 though is skip shifting. There's so many options.

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

Right on, were you reading my mind about what I wanted to hear?

I'm running 15" wheels right now and 70 series tire (not sure of the width...255? 265?). I plan on keeping it that way for a while. I an trying to go retro, bagged with large fatty whitewalls. We'll see. But yeah -

What is your gas mileage like?

On opic, I picked up the Griffin radiator. Would take some modification to fit where I want it to go. Because the core is just too damned thick, I'm going to go back and get the cheaper Summit radiator and use it instead. Another 1hr lunch wasted, but ... heh... (I wish someone made an aluminum radiator that is a direct replacement for the stock one, but 2-row aluminum w/2" core and reasonably priced!)

jinusow

25/17 mpg. I run it hard everyday and still get 17. It's my daily driver and worth every penny I put into it. I lost 4mpg overall hwy and city verses my 2.2l engine and gained 250hp+ and a 6th gear that's pretty good. I found out that the Holden Ute is just like my s10. why GM do you let the aussies have the fun? My next upgrade will be suspension and brakes. What I got is fine for now but I have a raked up rear and can lose traction in any gear. Braking is very hard on those little 10.5 disks.

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

At least you have discs...I'm running drums w/no power Sounds good, though!

Ok, I think I'm gonna try to go with a stock radiator at this point. Copper-brass rads are non-ferrous, so I don't think there is a problem with cross-contamination. I don't care about the weight difference and you only get a ~20% cooling increase with aluminum, and since all the aluminum rads fit so freaking crappy, it makes more sense to go stock like FirstGen did. Wish I would have come to this conclusion several months ago.

My only hope is that the 94-96 impala electric fans will fit the stock rad (forgot to measure at home). Might as well just buy one and find out, since I've bought 4 other radiators up to this point

Lot of people gave me the impression that there is some striking difference between the older stock rads and the newer rads, but it looks like the only difference, really, is the overall size and material. Older rads are small and brass/copper mix, newer radiators are just as small and aluminum. Larger brass/copper mix rad has the same or greater cooling capacity as a smaller, new aluminum rad.

billyjo

Shifty,

I have LS1 fans and they are much smaller than the stock radiator.

Bill

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Bill.

Tried to hit NAPA up for a 3-core today. They didn't have any in stock. Called 1-800-radiators at their suggestion, they just delivered a 4-core from Spectra. They delivered the one for truck with A/C and/or automatic tranny. I suppose this might actually be ok, I can fill one bung with a plug, then convert the other for the steam vent from the engine. Not sure yet. Will test fit when I get home.

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

That won't work for the steam vent. It needs to vent into the cooling system. The radiator trans cooler is isolated to keep the trans fluid seperate. Your plan would lead the steam vent to a dead end. There are several choices for the steam vent. Jags that Run has a number of Ts that will let you connect it into the radiator hose. On some GM trucks they have it routed into a T on a heater hose. You can also drill a hole in the top of the water pump and thread it for a fitting. That's what I did with mine and put a 1/8 NPT elbow. Over 1500 miles so far and working great. I will post a picture of it in the FAQ sticky tonight since it seems to be a poplular topic.

Pat

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I caught that while talking to the guy on the phone. It also looks like this 4-core/4-row/4-whatever radiator isn't going to fit worth a damn, but we'll see

I saw that and really liked it, but I don't want to take my water pump off, and I am afraid of getting shavings in the water pump when drilling and tapping it. Also, is the stock waterpump ferrous? Or is it alum? Seems like a brass elbow would not be good with iron water pump, but then again, iron water pump on alum engine block wouldn't make much sense either :crazy: