Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Well i have my turbo zone twin kit on the way and want to look into picking up a forged block. Nothing crazy, car is going to be a street monster, not a track car. Looking to stay stock cubes or possibly go with an iron block. Currently i have a 100% stock motor so my valvetrain will need to be done as well. Should i look into a shortblock and add my top end and a nice valvetrain set up? Should i look into a straight up long block with a nice set of heads as well? Your input please as to all you think needs to be done. Goal is 700 rwhp with twin 60mm's. Also your thoughts on staying with a built 346 alum vs going with a 6l iron block. Thanks in advance.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

bump....?

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

it all depends on what you want to spend.
id just get a decent bottom end and some springs, then maybe some good heads later when you can afford it.
im making around 700rwhp with just some forged JE pistons, eagle rods, 8.9:1 CR, home ported 6.0 heads, and some 921 valvesprings.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

build it yourself or did you get the shortblock built.... 346? right now im going to narrow it down to alum 346 or go with an iron block... what are your thoughts on the ups and downs of each, goal is 700 rwhp, twin 60s, street car?

Turbo LS1 SS

iTrader: (7)

just get some compstar rods and diamond pistons and build with what u got. arp head and main studs, calico bearings, oil pump. get a cam, and springs. if u got money left, get some good flowing heads.

TINKRD

iTrader: (27)

you'll have a little more displacement with the 6.0L block. 360ci if i remember correctly? :think:

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

so you think i'd be best to just build up my current motor by myself? 6.0L is a 366 i believe, any other benefits to it other than CI?

Turbo LS1 SS

iTrader: (7)

6L .005" over is 366. iron is obviously stronger than aluminum, and can be bored out larger, whish both were factors when i decided to go with iron. at 700rwhp aluminum will do the job. (obviously it will need to be properly built and tuned)

the way i suggested would probably be your least expensive route, while having a combo that is up to the task. i would recommend having a local REPUTABLE shop put the shortblock together. the rest is rather easy, IF u have some experience with this type of stuff.

heres a quick little list:

you disassemble your longblock. keep everything neat and organized, and CLEAN.
you'll need to make a decision on rods and pistons. (forged h-beam with arp 2000, and a forged boost piston that will meat ur CR goal)
give your ls1 block, crank, and your new rods and pistons (with provided rings) to ur selected machine/engine shop. MAKE SURE TEHY HAVE EXPERIENCE AND A GOOD NAME IN THE LS1 WORLD.....i cant stress that enough.

the block will need to be cleaned, deburrings a good idea, honed with TQ PLATES, hot tanked, maybe magnafluxed.... and the crank with need to be balanced to the bob-weight of the rods/pistons, as well as polished and maybe chamfered. then have that shop order you agreeing rod/main/cam bearings, (calico race coated is a +), and have them assemble ur short block, using arp studs for the mains.

that is the hard part. other things u will NEED:

upgraded oil pump (will need to be shimmed during installation), upgraded timing chain, valve springs (dual), pushrods,....

then, depending on if u go money left over, cam and heads. BUT, make sure when picking out a piston, you keep in mind what CC chamber your heads will be, so ur CR is where u want it. things that dont need to be changed are rockers, lifters (unless scored), intake, etc etc etc.....

then theres little tricks like drilling holes in the lifter trays for oil drain, pcv system routing, etc etc etc..

theres too much to really list in one sitting here...it all depends which route u wana take, money, and so on. if u gave a money figure that would certainly help. the short block will prolly run u about 3.5-4g realistically. not including the top end and gaskets.

also dont forget about ur fuel system, which, if ur aiming for 700rwhp, will need to be COMPLETELY redone. (dual intanks, -8 lines, rails, injectors, regulator, stock feed= return)... sorry to scare u. gota pay to play

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

oh no, i know the prices, not scared, lol. Well maybe a little, but you only live once right..... and its only money, i'll make more.

I would like to see how far i could get with 6K..... will need another walbro, some fuel lines, regulator, rails too. Already have one pump and some 65 lb injectors on the way.

Shortblock i could probably get done by a nice shop, just how far past shortblock could igo with 6k is the question. After a shortblock, what parts come after in order IYO..... valvetrain... heads... cam?

2000 Tran Zam

iTrader: (2)

for a cam, reverse splits seem to do the best with turbo applications, either that or a single pattern cam.

depends on how much boost you plan on running too (that will determine cam size)

if you dont wanna run a lot of boost, get a larger cam, although if its too big it will hinder drivability.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

right on, what are your thoughts for my wants on iron vs alum? If iron is what i decide, would the 6.0L truck motor be the one i'd want?

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

i like an iron block for the strength factor,even though aluminum will be enough.something like the speed inc 370 ci iron with around 9:0-9:5 cr with a good set of springs and a turbo specific cam should be a sweet combo.of course a 408 isn't alot higher.decisions,decisions.

Turbo LS1 SS

iTrader: (7)

if ur piecing the motor together urself (ie, not buying a prebuilt shortblock) i just buy a new iron lq9, or iron ls2 block from GM. the lq9 block is $700 new.

next in importance would be cam. i too have had good luck with reverse splits. reverse split on a larger lsa, with no overlap. make sure the lobes ramp up fast as well.

high flowing heads will help make u a lota power if u got the money. u can get the more power at much less boost. i prefer AFRs with inconel exhaust valves and dual springs. (J&J Speed Shop can get u a good deal on these). ive never been a fan of buying stock 6L heads and slapping them on. i know they will lower compression, but ur doing ur short block, so u dont need to worry about that.

2000 Tran Zam

iTrader: (2)

Id say if you dont plan on going too much more then 700rwhp, stick with a forged 346, saves weight too.

theres a few guys running 850 rwhp on a forged 346 with speed inc's eliminator kit...

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

hmm, still thinking. John at Turbozone said he'd be willing to build up one of the 6.0L truck motors he has for me... What are your thoughts on that? Right now i have a few thoughts.... tell me which one you like best....

1.) Get a built 346 shortblock, add valvetrain, cam, etc myself to it.

2.) Get a iron 360 6.0L motor from turbo-zone and have him forge it and add some valvetrain etc.... will already have the 6.0L heads of course so thats a plus

3.) Buy parts for my block and have a shop build it with the parts i give.

4.) Buy a complete 346 longblock from a sponsor built to my specs

5.) Buy a complete 370 iron block longblock from a sponsor to my specs.

Clearly 4 or 5 should like the best choices however i will be dumped some extra cash into those, however, that may be the best route. What do you guys think i should do? Gracias

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

I say option #4 - Call Erik at HPE perofrmance. I was very strongly considering building my own block, but why risk messing something up? The cost HPE charged to prep and asemble my shortblock cost less than I would have spent on machining and materials if I would have done it myself. Why risk it? They have the experience to do an A+ job. Shop around, and don't over build.

Murdock

iTrader: (2)

I'm in a similar boat, trying to figure out a motor for a turbo build this winter. I'm trying to decide between your #1 above or a forged LS2 (stock crank). To me, #4 or #5 would have to be priced pretty low, otherwise I'd buy the shortblock and build the longblock myself. The main question for me is: how hard are you going to hammer the motor? If you're going to drive it at 700hp for a year, then decide to go for a 1000, you might as well spec the motor for 1000 now and not do it twice.

As for shops, W2W is local. And I've heard good things about Best Machine in warren.

Good luck, I'll be keeping an eye on this thread.

TINKRD

iTrader: (27)

i'm going to go w/ a forged 6.0L block, ported 317 heads.

i'm still trying to figure out what turbo to go with. I've gotten a couple people who think that a t76 will be maxed out in higher boost levels. so now i'm trying to research a t88 perhaps?

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

if you've never built a motor before you better have some one helping you that knows what to do when **** goes south...

a motor is a huge row of dominos.... if one thing changes or is moved you have to change about 10 other things... and then those things that you changed there require about 10 other changes else where.... its a never ending battle especially if you start doing custom stuff....

i vote have someone CLOSE to you (that you can drive to) build a long block... everything from the pan to heads....

that way if anything goes wrong it will most likely be their fault because you didnt touch **** on the inside of the motor...


ask me how i know this through PM

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Ok, i think ive grown towards just having a shop do a shortblock to start... lets hear some of your thoughts for MY set-up and goals on alum vs iron block. Thanks