Aftermarket master/slave setup
10-10-2006, 10:56 PM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Aftermarket master/slave setup I've heard rumors that the stock hydraulics for the clutch doesn't move the fluid fast enough when shifting quickly. There is a piece that can modified to allow faster flowing if you drill it out so I've heard...
Have any of you experienced problems while trying to shift quickly on LT1's or LS1's? I'm asking because I broke my master cylinder before I could even use it and couldn't see if this was ever an issue.
Are there any "heavy duty" aftermarket ones that are worth it or no? I'm currently running a T-56 from an LT1 in my 83 firebird.
*BTW, the search isn't working... keeps timing out.
Have any of you experienced problems while trying to shift quickly on LT1's or LS1's? I'm asking because I broke my master cylinder before I could even use it and couldn't see if this was ever an issue.
Are there any "heavy duty" aftermarket ones that are worth it or no? I'm currently running a T-56 from an LT1 in my 83 firebird.
*BTW, the search isn't working... keeps timing out.
10-11-2006, 11:51 AM
#2
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Machine
The 'drill mod' is under installuniversity.com. I wouldn't recommend an aftermarket master. I have had nothing but problems and will likely be returning to stock soon.
10-12-2006, 04:25 AM
#3
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 523
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've just bought the McLeod master and hopefully will have it in by this weekend. What issues did you have Machine?
The drill mod removes the restriction from the master to slave in '98-'00 cars. I am not sure if the LT1 cars (I'm assuming that's where your current trans/master cyl is from) had the same issue.
The drill mod removes the restriction from the master to slave in '98-'00 cars. I am not sure if the LT1 cars (I'm assuming that's where your current trans/master cyl is from) had the same issue.
10-12-2006, 01:45 PM
#5
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Laguna Niguel, CA
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So is the best bet the stock replacement from GM?
And does it come with the braided SS line that goes to the master?
And how is it pre-bled from the factory? Doesn't that mean it has fluid in it?
And does it come with the braided SS line that goes to the master?
And how is it pre-bled from the factory? Doesn't that mean it has fluid in it?
10-12-2006, 01:51 PM
#6
Yes the GM Master is the most reliable at this point. Yes it comes with the braided line. That is what you need to remove in order to do the drill mod as seen on installuniversity.com. Pre-bled just means there is fluid in the line. Once you do the drill mod (and clean it out) you can bench bleed it to make sure there is no air in there.
10-12-2006, 01:52 PM
#7
Staging Lane
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Lombard, IL, USA
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by gun5l1ng3r
So is the best bet the stock replacement from GM?
And does it come with the braided SS line that goes to the master?
And how is it pre-bled from the factory? Doesn't that mean it has fluid in it?
And does it come with the braided SS line that goes to the master?
And how is it pre-bled from the factory? Doesn't that mean it has fluid in it?
Trending Topics
10-22-2006, 11:20 PM
#8
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 523
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used the McLeod. I did the drill mod, bench bled it, then bled it several times once installed. I then adjusted the pedal travel and it works great. *knocks on wood* 
It solved my spongy clutch pedal problem. 
It solved my spongy clutch pedal problem.