theblur98ss

iTrader: (71)

I'm looking at doing a twin turbo setup over the winter and I need to get an idea of what all I will need and how much $$$. I'm wanting to make over 1000 at the wheels with the possibility of doing 1200 in the future. This will be on my 408ci motor. I'm hoping to buy it all from various sponsors of the sight and do the install myself and then have GMR tune it for me. Here's what I've come up with so far. Please add any input.

Turbo Zone Twin kit
Twin Turbos....67-72mm size
2 wastegates
blow off valve
larger injectors
another 420L pump
boost controller
meth kit
Better Radiator???
Differant cam
differant pistons
AFR 225 72cc chambers

This will be mostly a street setup but will goto the track here and there. Hoping to make good pump gas numbers and huge numbers on a race tune. Let me know what I've missed.

thumpstick

i don't know what that turbo kit comes with, but here are some more things to consider

ECM w/lots of tuning
intercooler
boost tubes
header
exhaust system
FPR/fuel lines and fittings
and a whole bunch of these little guys ($$$$$)

the sticky might provide some info for you as well

good luck on the project
-John

JPSartre12

Big Stuff 3
liquid/air intercooler w/reservoir & pump
External crank trigger
Dual fans w/bigger radiator
Electric water pump
Dry sump oil system

theblur98ss

iTrader: (71)

What are boost tubes? At what point do you have to ditch the stock pcm and goto BS3? I'd also like to run an air to air intercooler. The turbo zone kit includes hot/cold piping, intercooler, headers.

thumpstick

Boost tubes are just the cold side piping, sorry. Not sure about the pcm thing but for what you are describing i would imagine that you would have to use the BS3. I don't know for sure though.

-John

JPSartre12

If you're looking for 1000HP, your stock PCM isn't going to cut it. You'll want to go to an aftermarket fuel/spark management system capable of managing timing and fuel requirements at varying boost levels. The BS3 handles all of the functions that you want to control and then some. It can also regulate boost with the help of a couple of solenoids that integrate into the system.
We also found that the stock crank signal wasn't up to the task of reving to 8K, so we had to go to an external crank trigger.
We learned that lesson after towing the car from Detroit to Alabama during spring break just to get some early testing in. The car fell on its face at ~6800rpms.
The liquid intercooler is a good idea for twins located in the engine bay. It gets hot in there and, even with liquid intercoolers, the inlet temps have hit 150 in the summer heat.
The extra fan helps keep the engine from overheating at an idle and the electric water pump will allow you to cool the engine between rounds.

The necessity of a dry sump oiling system hit home last weekend when my son's motor let loose at 140mph+ due to a spun bearing on #2 cylinder and the ejection of the rod out of the oilpan.

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

Stock PCM is okay with the latest speed density stuff they are coming out with...dry sump not needed but it'll prevent any kind of problems that we ran into...keeping the rpm down will work also but where's the fun in that.

I answered the rest of your questions on the email. JPSartre is my pops btw.

JPSartre12

I was wondering when you were going to jump in.

theblur98ss

iTrader: (71)

Haha....I was thinking there may be a relation there.

TrakDay

iTrader: (7)

The hot/cold side parts is the easy thing. Along with the turbo setup itself.

My opinion... Concentrate on the fuel system for the power level you want first! And seeing as how our goals are in the same arena I will just tell you exactly what I plan on running.

160# injectors
Weldon 2025
Aeromotive Pro Series FPR
post and pre filters
Fuel Cell
-12 feed from tank to pump
-10 feed from pump to Y-block
-8 from Y-block to rails
-8 from rails to FPR
-8 from FPR to tank
TONS OF FITTINGS
Big Stuff 3 for tuning


Fueling the beast is the most difficult and most important part of a successful setup if you ask me. Without proper fueling you won't make the power.

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

160 might be a tad large on the injectors unless you plan on going deep into the 8's like <8.50's or so...I ran my rc eng 96's and never had a problem and still had injector left at 161.

HAMRHEAD

iTrader: (8)

Well if you plan on using it at the track and making it worthwhile don't forget all the suspension stuff if you don't already have it. And the safety stuff too. There's more than I thought and you can forget about letting your new twin system loose at the track without all of it!

Also get the BS3 for sure and 96lb injectors are fine.

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

I agree if you want to get the most of your setup, go with the big stuff. I will never use anything else...and the customer support from John is second to none and he's just a flat-out cool guy.

TrakDay

iTrader: (7)

Well... if you decide on 96# injectors I have a set brand new. Let me know...

y2khawk

iTrader: (5)

You need a pair of GT42's, see sig

You don't need an external crank trigger, we're spinning the radial car past 8300 on a stock target wheel and sensor with the Bigstuff. Crank dropout has alot to do with crank endplay.

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

Dunno if that's the case or not...Chuck builds good stuff as you know and there was no excess endplay or anything like that with mine...and it's kinda weird that most people experience the problem at the same rpm (about 6600 or so). Could be related to variances in the block clearances and where exactly the pickup falls in relationship to the wheel and things of that nature or because the stock computer reads the wheel differently than just reading gaps like the bs3...who knows but I've seen a few guys recently running into that problem but at least it's an easy fix and well worth it to run the big stuff since it's the best out there...John also has some other things he's doing to solve it without switching from the stock sensors. I'm going to try and run the stock cam/crank sensors with the motor we're gathering parts for now and trouble-shoot it if necessary on an engine dyno. I also heard that the stock sensor completely stops sending signals at 8800 (or around there) so the external stuff raises that up way past that if you like to spin the hell out of the motor. Didn't Kurt say they had the signal go away when they were doing the casper thing? 8800 and bam no more signals.

GT42's...on a street car...you're a sick man harlan.

y2khawk

iTrader: (5)

It don't take much to freak the 2 sided sensor out. End play when it's built is one thing, but after that it's up in the air. Low enough oil supply to hurt the thrust bearing, or cook/balloon the converter once and that's it for low endplay.

I think it's more the variations in the way the aftermarket parts stack up. Where the cam target gets cut, how the crank wheel gets cut/moved for balance, etc. I'd bet the OEM machine work is ok

GT42's on the street, sure. We fired up a twin GT42 car 2 nights ago, and the owner has every intention of street driving it. 380+ cubes has the 42's MOVING at idle, it's gonna spool real fast

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

Definitly makes sense...that's why it's a no brainer to just stick a wheel on it and call it a day if necessary. No need to tear junk apart and try to get the stock stuff to work when a crank trigger is only a few hundred away.

I don't mean driven on the street, but more like DRIVEN on the street...I couldn't squish mine for more than a few seconds even at 10 psi without hitting triple digit speeds. Those things are just like having a drop dead gorgeous chick that is ready to bang every second of the day but the only catch is she has aids...you know one of those times you're going to nail it and regret it afterwards! lol

TrakDay

iTrader: (7)

LMFAO

I think thats the hardest I have ever laughed out loud from reading something on the internet... LOL