SpringtowN

Just dropped/replaced tranny and have a lttle air in my lines went and got a mighty vac to get ready and bleed the system, when i pulled opened the res. it was extremly black, i have never seen dot fluid that black,, i mean seriosly its black, what does this mean??...i know of course i should change it, but what is the best way,, also what causes this??
Any help be great..

Hugger Z

iTrader: (4)

That means the fluid is old and well cooked! It needs to be replaced every so often. I am guessing it is 4 years old if you have never flushed the system yet. Mine was similarly dark earlier this year before I bled the system. It helped reduce my soft pedal somewhat as the fluid breaks down when it is old and loses some of it's properties.

I think some of the dooking is due to the close proximity to the Cat on the drivers side. I plan to so my best to route that line away from the Cat when I replace my clutch this winter. I was also thinking about adding an extra heat sleeve, but that could either help reduce heat or make it like an oven and cook the line even more. I will have to do a search on that one.

gun5l1ng3r

I changed my clutch six months ago, and changed all the fluid. It is black now.

I did not put the black condom looking thing back in the resevoir. Supposedly that is a moisture guard...
So maybe it is cooked, or maybe too much moisture got into the fluid.

Hugger Z

iTrader: (4)

Brake Fluid does not play well with moisture. So yes you should put the moisture guard back. Moisture in the fluid will reduce compressability thus giving you a softer pedal. Similar to a brake system you want NO contaminants in the system. You don't want anything in your clutch system either.

SpringtowN

So whats the best way to drain it, At the bleeder valve??

Hugger Z

iTrader: (4)

Yes that is the best way, but by no means is it the easiest way. My buddy and I tried with no luck to even get a socket on the bleeder on my car. We resorted to draining and refilling the reservoir method over a period of time. I plan to get one of those bleeder extensions when I put new clutch hydraulics in my car this winter. I don't want to run into that bleeder problem again and do not want to drill a hole in my tunnel to access it (like some people have done). My car is a DD in the warm weather so ease of maintenance is important.

6']['9

iTrader: (2)

its pretty easy, you need to use the little rachet with either a small socket or a long one but you can use the little rachet and it works like a charm.

ski23

iTrader: (21)

1/4" breaker bar and a shallow socket taped to the breaker bar worked great for me

Hugger Z

iTrader: (4)

We tried everything we could think of. We could manage to get a socket on the bleeder but then the ratchet would not hook easily. And then if we did loosen it, where does the fluid go? I didn't want it draining into the bellhousing and fouling the clutch. So when I replace my clutch and hydraulics this winter, a bleeder extension will be on there as well. Thanks guys.

SladeX

Actually as it's pumped the fluid goes to 2 places. It sprays onto your trans tunnel and the rest follows the slave onto the slave and into the back of the bell housing. There is a small square notch between the back of the bellhousing and the transmission and will seep out through there on its own.

When pumping, I'd keep the socket on that way you deflect it spraying onto the underside of your car. Your hand and wrench will get messy so keep a rag on hand. Keep brake cleaner handy to clean off the area as well.

gun5l1ng3r

Or, as mentioned in another post, use the motive pressure bleeder...

okls1

Ive changed my fluid 3 times. Once had the master out of the car and completely flushed the system. Still turns black after like 2 days??? Car is hard to shift and wot and sometimes when I rev with the clutch in it feels like the clutch is slipping? Is this bad slave or what?

SladeX

Sounds like your exhaust is cooking the fluid, a bad slave would make a mess of fluid on the floor and not allow you to get into gear.

Try wrapping the line coming out the transmission with some heater hose. Worked great for me, my fluid is still clear.

okls1

Heater hose? I have rubber fuel line hose wrapped around braided line from the slave up to the master? I dont have stock heat sheild but its as far away from headers as possible. I know this is a problem with lots of m6 cam cars though. I just want to be able to shift without waiting 2 seconds between shifts

SladeX

Heater hose alone won't stop heat from soaking in. The heat shield actually provides most of the heat protection. The heater hose is just for that portion not covered by the heater hose. Long tube headers tend to bleed off even more heat than stockers.

Hugger Z

iTrader: (4)

Why don't you have your stock heat shield? Is there any heat shield? Those shields make a big difference in temps especially when you are that close to hot exhaust parts. I am planning to wrap my clutch line with some reflective shielding when I put the new parts on this winter. That should help along with making sure it is routed as far away from the exhaust (and under my heat shield) as I can.

okls1

The heat shield is just not there Maybe I need to buy a new one or what about making one? I just wrapped the line in rubber to try and protect it, but obviously didnt work too well.