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Best way to build a "Budget" 383/370 from an LS1?

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Old 10-12-2006, 04:15 PM
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Default Best way to build a "Budget" 383/370 from an LS1?

I have a 33,000 mile LS1 out of my Trans Am and am thinking of going with a forged 383/370 and was wondering what is the "budget" way to get there possibly using my block. Keep in mind that no freaking machine shop within 400 miles had a deck plate for boring an LS1 block. I mean do i buy a rotating assembly for a 370 and just get a hone and give up on the 383? If i go the 370 route what should i be looking at money wise when all is said and done? I have a magic stick 4 and will purchase PRC LS6 stage 1 heads to go on the engine. Please feel free to recommend some budget rotating Assembly's and from where i would purchace them. Thanks
Old 10-12-2006, 08:03 PM
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I'd go 370. Keep the stock crank, get some Diamond pistons for $600-ish, $115 for rings, $90 for good ARP rod bolts, and $450 for Scat H-beam rods (good for up to 800hp). You can go aluminum and get a new LS2 block for $1000 (which should take a .030" overbore - I've seen it before), or get a iron block for anywhere from $200-$700 dependng on if you get it used or new. So, not counting assembly and everything, the main components would cost you roughly:
Iron 6.0 block (new) = $700
Stock crank = $N/A
Scat H-beams = $450
Diamond 4.03" pistons = $600
+ ARP rod bolts = $90
-----------------------------
TOTAL: $1840

This is by no means complete but a general ballpark for the bare essentials of it.
Old 10-13-2006, 09:01 AM
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Thanks for the reply, i was thinking that the stock crank was good for pretty big HP. Will it also stand up to an additional 150 shot on top of the hp i will be producing with the heads and cam?
Old 10-13-2006, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by DogNutz
I have a 33,000 mile LS1 out of my Trans Am and am thinking of going with a forged 383/370 and was wondering what is the "budget" way to get there possibly using my block. Keep in mind that no freaking machine shop within 400 miles had a deck plate for boring an LS1 block. I mean do i buy a rotating assembly for a 370 and just get a hone and give up on the 383? If i go the 370 route what should i be looking at money wise when all is said and done? I have a magic stick 4 and will purchase PRC LS6 stage 1 heads to go on the engine. Please feel free to recommend some budget rotating Assembly's and from where i would purchase them. Thanks
In your case, I would just buy a short block from one of the vendors here on LS1tech and sell your stock block and parts.

If you wanna keep your block, a 383 would be the best route. The most you can HONE your LS1 block is only .008-.010" which would make 347ci with the stock stroke (3.622"). Lunati, and I think Eagle sell 383 rotating assemblies (3.905" X 4.00") but you would need to find a machine shop to hone the block that few thousandths. Using a deck plate is more beneficial for many reasons, but your motor won't blow up without using one. You are on a budget, which is synonymous with compromise.

For a 370 LSx, a 3.622" stroke is usually used with a 4.030' bore. In this case you would need an Iron block or possibly an LS2 block. From there you would then have to find pistons, rods, crank, etc. If your buying stock or used parts, that would add more difficulty checking measurements and inspecting for damage. Buying brand new or aftermarket parts would come close to the price of the 383.

Like I said, getting a built shortblock from a sponsor would be the best route for you IMO. Less headache, only slightly more expensive, and would probably end up with a better end result. Hope that helps.
Old 10-13-2006, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by DogNutz
Thanks for the reply, i was thinking that the stock crank was good for pretty big HP. Will it also stand up to an additional 150 shot on top of the hp i will be producing with the heads and cam?
There are guys who have pushed the stock ls1 crank over 800 hp so I wouldnt worry about that, just toss that extra money into good forged pistions, rods, etc...



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