walbro install (I have searched)
10-15-2006, 12:05 AM
#1
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walbro install (I have searched) Anyone have a decent write-up on a walbro 255 intank pump install? I found a link or two when I searched but they were old threads with bad links. Thanks
10-15-2006, 02:36 AM
#2
What kinda info? Most pumps come with instructions. If not, is it a direct replacement or a universal? They usually go in without much of a fuss.
Getting the pump assembly out:
Either cut a hole above the fuel tank (be very careful) or drop the tank. For cutting the hole, use a cutting wheel or something like a dremel tool. You want to be careful to only barely cut the metal and not go beneath it with the cutting tool.
Where to cut? In your car, remove the carpet over the fuel tank. Now you're looking at the metal and see the longtitudinal channels. Right in the middle is an area of about 8-10 inches without these channels. You'll be making two cuts just inside these channels from about halfway up to about where it curves down into the trunk (where the tire goes when you have a flat) and then make a horizontal cut at the back to create a flap (this horizontal cut will go through a channel in the middle that starts only at the downward bend). It'll be like opening up a can of tuna with the opening towards the rear of the car. Hope this was clear.
If you dropped the tank, god bless you, but you'll be at this next step..
Now you'll see a metal ring with five tabs. You have to rotate this ring to get it out of the locks. Use a brass chissel and a hammer (to avoid sparks) and tap on the little tabs, changing frequently, until it rotates enough to pop off the locks. Unclip the fuel lines (be careful for fuel spray) and remove the fuel pump assembly while being mindful of the level sending unit and reservior sock.
Replacing the pump:
On yours (which is probably the setup with the plastic reservior, push the two little tabs and take the reservior apart. Pull out the old pump and replace with the new pump (usually goes in exactly like the old one) and punch out the little one way valve on the bottom for better flow to the pump. You may have to do a little bit of cutting on the rubber support to clear certain aspects of the new pump like the pickup.
Wiring:
All this happens on the side inside of the tank...
Use the supplied straightened paperclip (or use your own little pointy object, like a paperclip) to remove the two purple fuel level sender wires from the stock pump harness (take retainer off from rear, push in pointy paper clip end in the tiny slot on the side of each female connector and pull wire out from the back, may take a couple tries to get good at this but it's pretty easy when you get it) and transfer them to the new harness and viola, you are done!
As always, installation is in the reverse order of disassembly. Sorry no pictures but hopefully you'll see what I'm talking about if you're doing it yourself.
Actually, take pictures when you're doing it and help someone else out in the future!
Getting the pump assembly out:
Either cut a hole above the fuel tank (be very careful) or drop the tank. For cutting the hole, use a cutting wheel or something like a dremel tool. You want to be careful to only barely cut the metal and not go beneath it with the cutting tool.
Where to cut? In your car, remove the carpet over the fuel tank. Now you're looking at the metal and see the longtitudinal channels. Right in the middle is an area of about 8-10 inches without these channels. You'll be making two cuts just inside these channels from about halfway up to about where it curves down into the trunk (where the tire goes when you have a flat) and then make a horizontal cut at the back to create a flap (this horizontal cut will go through a channel in the middle that starts only at the downward bend). It'll be like opening up a can of tuna with the opening towards the rear of the car. Hope this was clear.
If you dropped the tank, god bless you, but you'll be at this next step..
Now you'll see a metal ring with five tabs. You have to rotate this ring to get it out of the locks. Use a brass chissel and a hammer (to avoid sparks) and tap on the little tabs, changing frequently, until it rotates enough to pop off the locks. Unclip the fuel lines (be careful for fuel spray) and remove the fuel pump assembly while being mindful of the level sending unit and reservior sock.
Replacing the pump:
On yours (which is probably the setup with the plastic reservior, push the two little tabs and take the reservior apart. Pull out the old pump and replace with the new pump (usually goes in exactly like the old one) and punch out the little one way valve on the bottom for better flow to the pump. You may have to do a little bit of cutting on the rubber support to clear certain aspects of the new pump like the pickup.
Wiring:
All this happens on the side inside of the tank...
Use the supplied straightened paperclip (or use your own little pointy object, like a paperclip) to remove the two purple fuel level sender wires from the stock pump harness (take retainer off from rear, push in pointy paper clip end in the tiny slot on the side of each female connector and pull wire out from the back, may take a couple tries to get good at this but it's pretty easy when you get it) and transfer them to the new harness and viola, you are done!
As always, installation is in the reverse order of disassembly. Sorry no pictures but hopefully you'll see what I'm talking about if you're doing it yourself.
Actually, take pictures when you're doing it and help someone else out in the future!
Last edited by Mean Green z28; 10-15-2006 at 03:04 AM.
10-25-2006, 01:49 PM
#4
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Anyone know about there not being a nipple for the pickup on the walbro pump?
Theres the thick hose, then the thin one that goes to the top of the stock pump.
But the walbro pumps dont have a nipple for the little hose to connect to..
???
Theres the thick hose, then the thin one that goes to the top of the stock pump.
But the walbro pumps dont have a nipple for the little hose to connect to..
???
10-25-2006, 04:46 PM
#5
FormerVendor
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I would advise not using the rubber hose that comes with these pumps, we have seen manny of them split and you have to pull the tank to replace them. I use -6 braided on these and have never had a problem. Either -6 braided, or the GM flex tube.
10-25-2006, 05:56 PM
#6
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I did happen to just do that anyways! lol.. I didint like the idea of a flexi-straw.. haha
Left out the little tube.. obviously not needed. Works fine!
1/2 a tank and I was a lone.. so im cramped up from holding the tank up with my knee while I strapped it down haha.
EMPTY THE TANK!
Left out the little tube.. obviously not needed. Works fine!
1/2 a tank and I was a lone.. so im cramped up from holding the tank up with my knee while I strapped it down haha.
EMPTY THE TANK!
10-27-2006, 01:10 AM
#7
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I am kinda curious..
The bottom of the bucket had that valve with a hose that went to the top of the stock pump.
The new pump does not have this nozzle on the top..
So, I just removed the piece from the bucket leaving a hole in the bottom the size of a nickel. Now, the pickup for the walbro pump is on the bottom of it, and that white filter that goes on the bottom of the pump doesnt really fit in the bucket..
Why arent there any instructions on this install if it is (modification required)..
Its a... guess job I think..
So.. should I cut the bottom of this bucket off so the pickup sits free instead of mushed sideways in the bucket??
The bottom of the bucket had that valve with a hose that went to the top of the stock pump.
The new pump does not have this nozzle on the top..
So, I just removed the piece from the bucket leaving a hole in the bottom the size of a nickel. Now, the pickup for the walbro pump is on the bottom of it, and that white filter that goes on the bottom of the pump doesnt really fit in the bucket..
Why arent there any instructions on this install if it is (modification required)..
Its a... guess job I think..
So.. should I cut the bottom of this bucket off so the pickup sits free instead of mushed sideways in the bucket??