HELP-LQ4 + BW ST-10 + 80 fairmont = ????
10-15-2006, 02:52 AM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HELP-LQ4 install Ok so heres the deal guys.. I need some help!
Currently in my high school auto class we've been working on getting a drag car built.
The car we have was donated to us, its a 1980 Ford Fairmont.(orinially an I6 auto) From what I hear this is a very early variation of the Fox Body Mustangs, so if theres any LSx Mustang guys I would like to find out what it will take to get this engine.trans to sit right in there. We already know we will almost definatley need to get a drive shaft made.
The car as of now is completley stripped, has a full roll cage, racing seat, Ford Racing 8.8 diff, and tubbed wheel wells. These are all things we have done in class.
My uncle is a tech for GM and did some warranty work on an 02 Denali, customer complained about low end noise on a cold start, GMPP (the warranty comapany) replaced the engine at no charge to the customer seeing as the Denali is an expensive vehicle, etc, etc.. He planned to put it in his Monte Carlo but then got his hands on an LT1+ 4l60 very cheap and gave my school the LQ4 very cheap.
We've done some research and since we have no wiring harness/computer and a small budget. We've discovered that an LS1 carb intake manifold will work with this engine from Edelbrock so those are our plans for fuel delivery.
For the rear diff we went with a Ford 8.8 with 3.73 gears which we ordered from Jeg's.
The trans we have is a Borg Warner Super T-10 4 speed manual
we also came across this very cheap. Now this trans has no bellhousing, we have yet to find a bellhousing to fit these two together, does any one know if it can be done, or if we would be better off selling it for a T-56 ? or would that not work either? We have decided to make the car manual and BW seems to be our only option with transmissions as far as we know. Whats the fun in going to the track with out slamming some gears huh? lol
What I need to know is does anyone have ANY experience in mounting up a manual trans to an LQ4 and what were some things needed and if possible, where did you buy them? Also if anyone has any experiences with carbed' LSx's or LQ4/LQ9 ?
ANY help at all will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance everyone
Scott
EDIT : SORRY FOR THE LONG POST GUYS
Currently in my high school auto class we've been working on getting a drag car built.
The car we have was donated to us, its a 1980 Ford Fairmont.(orinially an I6 auto) From what I hear this is a very early variation of the Fox Body Mustangs, so if theres any LSx Mustang guys I would like to find out what it will take to get this engine.trans to sit right in there. We already know we will almost definatley need to get a drive shaft made.
The car as of now is completley stripped, has a full roll cage, racing seat, Ford Racing 8.8 diff, and tubbed wheel wells. These are all things we have done in class.
My uncle is a tech for GM and did some warranty work on an 02 Denali, customer complained about low end noise on a cold start, GMPP (the warranty comapany) replaced the engine at no charge to the customer seeing as the Denali is an expensive vehicle, etc, etc.. He planned to put it in his Monte Carlo but then got his hands on an LT1+ 4l60 very cheap and gave my school the LQ4 very cheap.
We've done some research and since we have no wiring harness/computer and a small budget. We've discovered that an LS1 carb intake manifold will work with this engine from Edelbrock so those are our plans for fuel delivery.
For the rear diff we went with a Ford 8.8 with 3.73 gears which we ordered from Jeg's.
The trans we have is a Borg Warner Super T-10 4 speed manual
we also came across this very cheap. Now this trans has no bellhousing, we have yet to find a bellhousing to fit these two together, does any one know if it can be done, or if we would be better off selling it for a T-56 ? or would that not work either? We have decided to make the car manual and BW seems to be our only option with transmissions as far as we know. Whats the fun in going to the track with out slamming some gears huh? lol
What I need to know is does anyone have ANY experience in mounting up a manual trans to an LQ4 and what were some things needed and if possible, where did you buy them? Also if anyone has any experiences with carbed' LSx's or LQ4/LQ9 ?
ANY help at all will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance everyone
Scott
EDIT : SORRY FOR THE LONG POST GUYS
Last edited by energ; 10-15-2006 at 06:57 PM. Reason: wrong title
10-15-2006, 03:50 AM
#2
LQ4/9 is the same as the LS1 architechture except for the higher cu.in. and the block being iron. So basically anything that fits the LS1 bolts right up to the LQ* motor.
For the carbed intake, you're still gonna need a way of controlling the coil packs (unless you go with the new front cover with distributor setup ... $) so you're gonna need the MSD LS1 timing control box. As for the tranny, I'm not too sure of how strong the tranny you have is but I'm sure a universal bellhousing is made for such an application (although it aint gonna be cheap 'cos they're usually the tougher SFI approved units). What about the clutch setup? Not sure of the options here.
If it was me, I'd get a built T56 'cos it bolts right up and there's so many options out there for clutches/hydraulics.
For the carbed intake, you're still gonna need a way of controlling the coil packs (unless you go with the new front cover with distributor setup ... $) so you're gonna need the MSD LS1 timing control box. As for the tranny, I'm not too sure of how strong the tranny you have is but I'm sure a universal bellhousing is made for such an application (although it aint gonna be cheap 'cos they're usually the tougher SFI approved units). What about the clutch setup? Not sure of the options here.
If it was me, I'd get a built T56 'cos it bolts right up and there's so many options out there for clutches/hydraulics.
10-15-2006, 02:36 PM
#3
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, the carb/intake kit we found comes with the MSD LS1 timing control module.
As for the trans it is a pretty popular drag transmission, I'm just not sure how many people actually use it on newer engines.
Any of you LSx Fox Body guys have any tips on what we might need to fit this all up??
As for the trans it is a pretty popular drag transmission, I'm just not sure how many people actually use it on newer engines.
Any of you LSx Fox Body guys have any tips on what we might need to fit this all up??
10-18-2006, 03:37 PM
#6
Originally Posted by energ
Thanks, the carb/intake kit we found comes with the MSD LS1 timing control module.
As for the trans it is a pretty popular drag transmission, I'm just not sure how many people actually use it on newer engines.
Any of you LSx Fox Body guys have any tips on what we might need to fit this all up??
As for the trans it is a pretty popular drag transmission, I'm just not sure how many people actually use it on newer engines.
Any of you LSx Fox Body guys have any tips on what we might need to fit this all up??
You will be much better off going TH350. I doubt you could reasonably adapt that tranny over because it needs a diferent input shaft. As for you car just do a search theres a guy on here that has done no less than 2 of them. The box in the kit will be an edelbrock it has less features than the msd box. The MSD version has a rev limiter.
Trending Topics
10-18-2006, 06:25 PM
#8
Originally Posted by sssuch
LQ4 to BorgWarner ST-10 I did this about 3 years ago it looks like this :
COOL! How did you adapt the input shaft? Flywheel? pilot bearing adaptation any info? Bolting it to the engine is no problem at all its making the clutch assembly and mechanicals work is the prob.
10-18-2006, 07:18 PM
#9
On The Tree
heres a cut and paste of one of my previus posts:
I just test fit a new Lakewood blow proof #15005 to my LQ4 fit good except for some minor grinding near the top of the block for the nut on the block plate. This may not be an issue with the aluminum block LS1 & LS6. It also comes with a machined adapter that presses into the back of the crank to use a standard pilot bushing. Instead of the adapter and bronze pilot bushing I used a GM pilot bearing #12557583 which is a sealed ball bearing , everything fits perfectly and it cost less than $10.00 . Much less than some dealers want for the adapter to use the old-style bushing. This bellhousing even has a bracket on it so I can mount a bracket for my clutch cross shaft. This bell will ONLY bolt up to Muncie,Borg Warner T-10 , Doug Nash , and other transmissions with the old style bolt pattern. No T-56 but who cares they seem to be made outa glass! As 71 Camaro LS1 stated above its simple. Just use the GM pilot bearing and you don't have to make anything and you can use the old style aluminum bellhousing if you want. But the Lakewood bell is the way to go if you want to keep your feet, I have seen a car after a clutch explosion it aint pretty, its just cheap insurance.
I also used a steel flywheel from AMS racing and a factory LS-6 clutch and pressure plate. Stan.
I just test fit a new Lakewood blow proof #15005 to my LQ4 fit good except for some minor grinding near the top of the block for the nut on the block plate. This may not be an issue with the aluminum block LS1 & LS6. It also comes with a machined adapter that presses into the back of the crank to use a standard pilot bushing. Instead of the adapter and bronze pilot bushing I used a GM pilot bearing #12557583 which is a sealed ball bearing , everything fits perfectly and it cost less than $10.00 . Much less than some dealers want for the adapter to use the old-style bushing. This bellhousing even has a bracket on it so I can mount a bracket for my clutch cross shaft. This bell will ONLY bolt up to Muncie,Borg Warner T-10 , Doug Nash , and other transmissions with the old style bolt pattern. No T-56 but who cares they seem to be made outa glass! As 71 Camaro LS1 stated above its simple. Just use the GM pilot bearing and you don't have to make anything and you can use the old style aluminum bellhousing if you want. But the Lakewood bell is the way to go if you want to keep your feet, I have seen a car after a clutch explosion it aint pretty, its just cheap insurance.
I also used a steel flywheel from AMS racing and a factory LS-6 clutch and pressure plate. Stan.
10-19-2006, 02:57 PM
#10
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by sssuch
heres a cut and paste of one of my previus posts:
I just test fit a new Lakewood blow proof #15005 to my LQ4 fit good except for some minor grinding near the top of the block for the nut on the block plate. This may not be an issue with the aluminum block LS1 & LS6. It also comes with a machined adapter that presses into the back of the crank to use a standard pilot bushing. Instead of the adapter and bronze pilot bushing I used a GM pilot bearing #12557583 which is a sealed ball bearing , everything fits perfectly and it cost less than $10.00 . Much less than some dealers want for the adapter to use the old-style bushing. This bellhousing even has a bracket on it so I can mount a bracket for my clutch cross shaft. This bell will ONLY bolt up to Muncie,Borg Warner T-10 , Doug Nash , and other transmissions with the old style bolt pattern. No T-56 but who cares they seem to be made outa glass! As 71 Camaro LS1 stated above its simple. Just use the GM pilot bearing and you don't have to make anything and you can use the old style aluminum bellhousing if you want. But the Lakewood bell is the way to go if you want to keep your feet, I have seen a car after a clutch explosion it aint pretty, its just cheap insurance.
I also used a steel flywheel from AMS racing and a factory LS-6 clutch and pressure plate. Stan.
I just test fit a new Lakewood blow proof #15005 to my LQ4 fit good except for some minor grinding near the top of the block for the nut on the block plate. This may not be an issue with the aluminum block LS1 & LS6. It also comes with a machined adapter that presses into the back of the crank to use a standard pilot bushing. Instead of the adapter and bronze pilot bushing I used a GM pilot bearing #12557583 which is a sealed ball bearing , everything fits perfectly and it cost less than $10.00 . Much less than some dealers want for the adapter to use the old-style bushing. This bellhousing even has a bracket on it so I can mount a bracket for my clutch cross shaft. This bell will ONLY bolt up to Muncie,Borg Warner T-10 , Doug Nash , and other transmissions with the old style bolt pattern. No T-56 but who cares they seem to be made outa glass! As 71 Camaro LS1 stated above its simple. Just use the GM pilot bearing and you don't have to make anything and you can use the old style aluminum bellhousing if you want. But the Lakewood bell is the way to go if you want to keep your feet, I have seen a car after a clutch explosion it aint pretty, its just cheap insurance.
I also used a steel flywheel from AMS racing and a factory LS-6 clutch and pressure plate. Stan.
GREAT
So now that I know this can be done I will be searching for the parts
and keep updating/asking more questions.. lol
How about mounting an LSx/LQx into a Fox Body????
what mounts?
10-23-2006, 09:44 PM
#12
Staging Lane
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: aurora,il
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by energ
ttt.. anyone?
10-26-2006, 08:57 AM
#13
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by sssuch
heres a cut and paste of one of my previus posts:
I just test fit a new Lakewood blow proof #15005 to my LQ4 fit good except for some minor grinding near the top of the block for the nut on the block plate. This may not be an issue with the aluminum block LS1 & LS6. It also comes with a machined adapter that presses into the back of the crank to use a standard pilot bushing. Instead of the adapter and bronze pilot bushing I used a GM pilot bearing #12557583 which is a sealed ball bearing , everything fits perfectly and it cost less than $10.00 . Much less than some dealers want for the adapter to use the old-style bushing. This bellhousing even has a bracket on it so I can mount a bracket for my clutch cross shaft. This bell will ONLY bolt up to Muncie,Borg Warner T-10 , Doug Nash , and other transmissions with the old style bolt pattern. No T-56 but who cares they seem to be made outa glass! As 71 Camaro LS1 stated above its simple. Just use the GM pilot bearing and you don't have to make anything and you can use the old style aluminum bellhousing if you want. But the Lakewood bell is the way to go if you want to keep your feet, I have seen a car after a clutch explosion it aint pretty, its just cheap insurance.
I also used a steel flywheel from AMS racing and a factory LS-6 clutch and pressure plate. Stan.
I just test fit a new Lakewood blow proof #15005 to my LQ4 fit good except for some minor grinding near the top of the block for the nut on the block plate. This may not be an issue with the aluminum block LS1 & LS6. It also comes with a machined adapter that presses into the back of the crank to use a standard pilot bushing. Instead of the adapter and bronze pilot bushing I used a GM pilot bearing #12557583 which is a sealed ball bearing , everything fits perfectly and it cost less than $10.00 . Much less than some dealers want for the adapter to use the old-style bushing. This bellhousing even has a bracket on it so I can mount a bracket for my clutch cross shaft. This bell will ONLY bolt up to Muncie,Borg Warner T-10 , Doug Nash , and other transmissions with the old style bolt pattern. No T-56 but who cares they seem to be made outa glass! As 71 Camaro LS1 stated above its simple. Just use the GM pilot bearing and you don't have to make anything and you can use the old style aluminum bellhousing if you want. But the Lakewood bell is the way to go if you want to keep your feet, I have seen a car after a clutch explosion it aint pretty, its just cheap insurance.
I also used a steel flywheel from AMS racing and a factory LS-6 clutch and pressure plate. Stan.
thank you for the reply.
Can you post a link to the thread I can not seem to find it with search.
And did you use a hydraulic or mechanical clutch? (being an ls6 clutch I would assume it was hydraulic but I have to ask)
11-06-2006, 02:41 PM
#14
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ttt
got the bellhousing thanks SSSUCH
did a test fit every thing looks like it fits perfect
did you use the standard LQ4 flywheel or after market?
will an LSx style flywheel work with this engine?
motor mounts are holding us back for now..
what kind of headers are all you fox body LSx guys using ?
got the bellhousing thanks SSSUCH
did a test fit every thing looks like it fits perfect
did you use the standard LQ4 flywheel or after market?
will an LSx style flywheel work with this engine?
motor mounts are holding us back for now..
what kind of headers are all you fox body LSx guys using ?
11-07-2006, 09:39 AM
#17
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Kansas City metro area
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used a SFI scattershield as an adapter to the LS1 from my Muncie. I am using mechanical clutch linkage. I called Ram and they gave me the itme number for the pressure palte and disc. Ordered them from Summit, don't remember how much but it was reasonable. Check the sticky section at the top, I think my experience is documented there.
11-07-2006, 02:21 PM
#19
On The Tree
did you use the standard LQ4 flywheel or after market?
will an LSx style flywheel work with this engine?
I used a aftermarket steel flywheel with LS6 clutch .
All LSx flywheels will fit this engine.
I used my factory Corvette mechanical clutch linkage.
Hydraulic or mechanical makes no difference in the clutch or pressureplate , it is only the means to disengage it.
will an LSx style flywheel work with this engine?
I used a aftermarket steel flywheel with LS6 clutch .
All LSx flywheels will fit this engine.
I used my factory Corvette mechanical clutch linkage.
Hydraulic or mechanical makes no difference in the clutch or pressureplate , it is only the means to disengage it.
