View Full Version : Wheel Hop or something else?

10-22-2006, 10:23 AM
The guys that dyno'd the car and modded said that I've got bad rear end gears, but I don't think so.

When trying to accelerate from a stop while turning a corner, the right rear wheel seems to "hop" and loose all traction. Seems like it's coming off the ground. But it's only the right rear wheel. If it was BOTH wheels I could understand it being rear end gears. The traction control light does NOT come on.

Bad shockes/struts? (not sure that's why I'm asking). If it is the struts/shocks, which is the perferred brand/model?

What else COULD it be? Not a safety issue right now, but could be.

Thanks guys!

10-22-2006, 12:50 PM
Several questions/things.

A torsen will always try to accelerate the slower wheel. It's just the nature of how it works. So, if it's always the right rear wheel and you're turning right, that's not too unusual, add more power and it could be more common. If it's the right rear and you're turning left (and not just pounding the gas pedal), it could be something binding in the rear suspension (or bent) and unloading that wheel, or you could have a dead rear shock on that side that's allowing the suspension to "bounce" when power is applied.

Just my random thoughts.

Is it always the right side, even in a left turn?

10-22-2006, 01:09 PM
I believe that it is also occuring on a left turn as well, I didn't notice anything until after the guys told me what they thought was wrong.

I was sitting probably a 20 degree up angle to make a left turn onto the center turn lane (here in Texas), and I needed a bit more extra power to pull out into traffic and I belive the right rear tire did the same thing as making a right turn.

hopeing this is a cheap problem to fix!

10-22-2006, 01:51 PM
On the left turn, is it the right wheel? Or the left wheel? If it's the left wheel, that may just be the torsen. If it's still the right wheel, it could still be other things.

Also, what condition are your tires in? I've currently got a set that are not illegal (not to the wear bars), but have hit the "hard" compound at the bottom. My car will have the inside tire "chatter" when accelerating (not hard) and making a right or left turn (think of being the first car at a traffic light and making a turn). In my case, it's "dead" tires that are aggrivating my torsen. You may still have other issues, but I thought I'd mention it.

10-22-2006, 02:03 PM
funny you ask, both rear tires are brand new!

Under high torque it seems to be the right tire always under any turn. I'm leaning more torward the shock...hopefully that's what it is.

Any other thoughts?

10-22-2006, 04:22 PM
You've worn off the release agent (the greasy stuff) on the tires that helps them to release from the mold, haven't you? That could cause them to be a bit slick and cause what you describe. Since a torsen can put 2.3 times as much power to the non spinning wheel as the spinning wheel is actually putting down, having tires that are slippery can limit its ability to transfer power. If the tire is really slick and just spins, it will put almost nothing to the other side, so you go nowhere.

I'd consider swapping the rear shocks from side to side, see if it changes sides. If not, change the springs side to side. See if that has an effect. It's a place to start at least (and not too much work to do).

10-22-2006, 06:55 PM
is it a lot of work to do the springs/shocks?

10-22-2006, 09:32 PM
is it a lot of work to do the springs/shocks?


You jack up the car, set the chassis on jack stands. Put a jack under the axle and jack it up slightly.

Lay down the back seat, and right at the top of the almost vertical section behind the seat back, you'll find a perforated place in the carpet. Gently pull it open. Remove the nut on the top of the shock shaft (located under the foam block that is under the carpet).

Get under the car, remove the bolt that holds the shock to the axle. Push up on the shock and pull the bolt out of the hole (or lower the jack a bit until it just comes out easily).

Repeat on other side.

Tighten nuts on axle end and inside car.

To change the springs, you just remove the nut on the bottom of the shock that holds it to the axle, push the stud out of the hole, lower the jack (and axle) a little bit (don't let it stretch the brake lines, they are the next thing to limit how far down the axle can go), lift the springs out of each side, swap, raise axle and install nuts on shocks.

Neither is a difficult job. It just takes some basic work.

Hope that helps.