Spun a rod bearing: Need some input on what to do?
10-22-2006, 05:01 PM
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Spun a rod bearing: Need some input on what to do? well.... took the car to the track... I made a few passes on the bottle... ran a 7.4 at 97 with a 1.77 60ft on drag radials... full weight and the 110rwhp pills in.....
then let someone else drive it....he made one pass, hotlapped a second... let it cooldown for the 3rd (due to track issues) and on the 3rd pass it missed 3rd..... well after parking it in the pits for awhile I got back in the car to find the clutch lettin out really far. It died a few times while I was attempting to take off. After I got going when the car hit over 2600rpm I was shocked to hear a knocking..... consistant knock. Sounded like a rod. I drove it back to talk to the fellas, they said i sounded as though it was a dropped valve seat/valve. Well.... the consensus now is that it spun a bearing. The number 8 plug was white while the others look fine.
I dont have a window switch on the car (for some reason ZEX and MSD Window Switches dont play well together so I hear). I usually drive the crap out of my car on motor, but on the bottle I take awhile to shift it. I also short shift on the nitrous around 6k while on motor I usually shift around 6300-6400 or so.
-car had no window switch
-short filter not the longer truck one (
)
-stock fuel pump and stock oil pump
-speed density tune
Well....... how much do you expect to pay to pull the piston and rod while the engine is in the car? Is it doable with it possibly being number 8? I assume I should replace all the bearings while it is being done. I am not the one that will be doing the work, just financing it
Should I just park the car (since it is not a daily driver) and save up for another motor? This really sucks as I was just startin to have some fun with it ( I put a 9 inch in it a few weeks ago!!!!!!
)
what do yall think?
then let someone else drive it....he made one pass, hotlapped a second... let it cooldown for the 3rd (due to track issues) and on the 3rd pass it missed 3rd..... well after parking it in the pits for awhile I got back in the car to find the clutch lettin out really far. It died a few times while I was attempting to take off. After I got going when the car hit over 2600rpm I was shocked to hear a knocking..... consistant knock. Sounded like a rod. I drove it back to talk to the fellas, they said i sounded as though it was a dropped valve seat/valve. Well.... the consensus now is that it spun a bearing. The number 8 plug was white while the others look fine.
I dont have a window switch on the car (for some reason ZEX and MSD Window Switches dont play well together so I hear). I usually drive the crap out of my car on motor, but on the bottle I take awhile to shift it. I also short shift on the nitrous around 6k while on motor I usually shift around 6300-6400 or so.
-car had no window switch
-short filter not the longer truck one (
)-stock fuel pump and stock oil pump
-speed density tune
Well....... how much do you expect to pay to pull the piston and rod while the engine is in the car? Is it doable with it possibly being number 8? I assume I should replace all the bearings while it is being done. I am not the one that will be doing the work, just financing it
Should I just park the car (since it is not a daily driver) and save up for another motor? This really sucks as I was just startin to have some fun with it ( I put a 9 inch in it a few weeks ago!!!!!!
)what do yall think?
10-22-2006, 05:07 PM
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I know if it were me, I would park the car until I could afford to put a built motor in it. However you could pull the motor and rebuild that one. Its really up to you on how far you want to go with the motor. If you have any high hp goals with the car, now would be the ideal time to build a motor for that.
10-22-2006, 06:44 PM
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man this sucks... it is not that I cant do the work... I just wont.
I have pulled the heads off my 3.4 v6 before along with the intakes to get ported..... but I no longer have the tools or time to work on my TA..... how much does it run to pull the motor?
I have pulled the heads off my 3.4 v6 before along with the intakes to get ported..... but I no longer have the tools or time to work on my TA..... how much does it run to pull the motor?
10-22-2006, 08:26 PM
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i spun a bearing also at the track. i was only running the 1/8 th mile and i was low on oil,i guess i starved it for oil either way now would be a good time to either forge it or go big and drop in a 402/408 if funds allow it. since you spray it, it would be a good idea to atleast forge it.
either way now would be a good time to either forge it or go big and drop in a 402/408 if funds allow it. since you spray it, it would be a good idea to atleast forge it. Trending Topics
10-23-2006, 12:42 AM
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oil starvation loves killing motors. Last year i threw a bearing in my neon.... Good thing its all stock and my dad works for dodge. But the cause of my engine demise was a broken oil line.
10-23-2006, 12:50 AM
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Which ever way you go, it's ganna cost you some $$$. I would shop around....call LME or TSP, get a quote from them. A forged 347 short block will run you anywhere from $2500 and up. Good luck bro.....I know the feeling, the same thing happend to my motor a while back.
10-23-2006, 12:51 AM
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note to 97-99 LS1 owners
do not spin your motors past 6500 you have poor oil return and WILL spin bearings
that said... buy an LQ4 truck shortblock and put it in there, you can get a complete LQ4 for like 800 bucks. just have someone put your LS1 heads accessories etc on the 6.0 block, also the rod bolts should be changed so you can spin pass 7k
do not spin your motors past 6500 you have poor oil return and WILL spin bearings
that said... buy an LQ4 truck shortblock and put it in there, you can get a complete LQ4 for like 800 bucks. just have someone put your LS1 heads accessories etc on the 6.0 block, also the rod bolts should be changed so you can spin pass 7k
10-23-2006, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Cop Car
note to 97-99 LS1 owners
do not spin your motors past 6500 you have poor oil return and WILL spin bearings
that said... buy an LQ4 truck shortblock and put it in there, you can get a complete LQ4 for like 800 bucks. just have someone put your LS1 heads accessories etc on the 6.0 block, also the rod bolts should be changed so you can spin pass 7k
do not spin your motors past 6500 you have poor oil return and WILL spin bearings
that said... buy an LQ4 truck shortblock and put it in there, you can get a complete LQ4 for like 800 bucks. just have someone put your LS1 heads accessories etc on the 6.0 block, also the rod bolts should be changed so you can spin pass 7k
Originally Posted by Cop Car
= a waste of time
use a 6.0 block
use a 6.0 block
I like the LQ4 idea..... that with a 3.9 crank and ls1 bore sounds really nice to me.
10-25-2006, 08:53 AM
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I love the ignorance of the responses in here.....
How is pulling one piston out, honing that cylinder, and putting it back together with a known good rod/piston half assing it? You'd be surprised at what a GM dealership tech will do for the same situation and flat rate the work....
If I had a lift, id tear that pan off and do the work just like that, just like ive done in the past, and just like John's done with a piston in his hybrid car.
Longer filters hold more oil. Tell us how many miles are on that engine Mike?? A window switch, etc, wouldnt have mattered since you rarely check your oil level when you race. I always ran the long oil filter from the truck, and ALWAYS made sure I had 6 qts of oil in the pan before I made passes. You'll notice on any hard launch with low oil levels the oil pressure will drop off and then regain about 70-100 ft out. Missing 3rd with no window switch has nothing to do with. There was no power shifting involved...When Ive run the longer oil filter and always made sure the oil was FULL before beating on it ive never had a bearing issue!
A high mileage motor is not something to be spraying the **** out of much less on something that have its oil level checked often.
You also just added compression on top of a high mileage setup...that speeds up the piston/rod load of being pushed back down on the struck. You made you a recipe for disaster bro. Fix it cheap and drive it, then save for the other motor you want to build.
How is pulling one piston out, honing that cylinder, and putting it back together with a known good rod/piston half assing it? You'd be surprised at what a GM dealership tech will do for the same situation and flat rate the work....
If I had a lift, id tear that pan off and do the work just like that, just like ive done in the past, and just like John's done with a piston in his hybrid car.
Longer filters hold more oil. Tell us how many miles are on that engine Mike?? A window switch, etc, wouldnt have mattered since you rarely check your oil level when you race. I always ran the long oil filter from the truck, and ALWAYS made sure I had 6 qts of oil in the pan before I made passes. You'll notice on any hard launch with low oil levels the oil pressure will drop off and then regain about 70-100 ft out. Missing 3rd with no window switch has nothing to do with. There was no power shifting involved...When Ive run the longer oil filter and always made sure the oil was FULL before beating on it ive never had a bearing issue!
A high mileage motor is not something to be spraying the **** out of much less on something that have its oil level checked often.
You also just added compression on top of a high mileage setup...that speeds up the piston/rod load of being pushed back down on the struck. You made you a recipe for disaster bro. Fix it cheap and drive it, then save for the other motor you want to build.
Last edited by V6 Bird; 10-25-2006 at 08:59 AM.