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pushing coolant. am i done pushing it? anyone run c16?

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Old 10-22-2006, 11:15 PM
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Default pushing coolant. am i done pushing it? anyone run c16?

i pushed some coolant out of the fill cap today. this was at 18psi, 19deg of timing and about 45deg outside. i am running 114 fuel and got no KR. mph was close to my best but there was a strong headwind so i was probably making more power than i ever have.

i really wanted to bust into the 9's so i pushed it harded than i should have on the next run. i pulled 2deg of timing and bump the boost up to 20psi. i got within .2 of my best mph(against a strong head wind). it pushed a little more coolant. this time there was some knock in 3rd gear but only after the lock up conveter kicked in.

i know the boost level seems lower than a few other guys are pushing it but it was freeking cold out. am i at that point where the heads just lift a little and there is not much i can do about it or is it most likely a tuning thing?

how many times am i likely to get away with pushing coolant, asuming i can avoid knock, before i really mess something up. i have copper head gaskets but no orings.

i am going to try a run next time without my lockup in 3rd to see if the knock stays away. when it kicks in it does put me at a lower rpm than any other part in my run but it also puts be near my peek tq wich i think helps me to get a better ET. not realy sure what to do here. maybe i just need better fuel for the knock?

if there is a chance better fuel will help me all around? whats the word on c16? i can get 118cheap but it really leans things out and i have to richen it up soo much i think it will push my fuel system over the edge. is c16 the same way?
Old 10-23-2006, 12:42 AM
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From what i have read along the years.. likely that the heads are lifting... and your next step (some future day) may be the aftermarket world block and heads. Or maybe thicker Deck AFR's with big ol h-11 or L-19 head studs...

Either way, as always, Bad *** truck, and just so you know, its even a legend here in Albany NY.. people in our scene, and not LS1 people, reference "Parish" as if they know him.
Kinda what Marko used to be to the Supra Scene, you are to the truck scene, at least in some circles I have bumped into.

BTW, pushing a little coolant, without knock, may well not be detrimental. I know W2W cars have been known to be coolant pushers at times, and stay alive.
Old 10-23-2006, 12:43 AM
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I beleive its where your pushing the coolant at. As in in between the heads or on the outer part of the cylinder. I would really look hard at your timing where you got knock and look at the VE tables there. If its in between the cylinder I doubt you hurt anything but goo luck either way
Old 10-23-2006, 05:01 AM
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I feel like anthing @ that level is going to push a little coolant. Id put a jaz can from summit on it and go racing so no coolant can get down on the track and cause issues.
Old 10-23-2006, 08:40 AM
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Parish you are in quickly growing club. You should be able to make it better with o-rings and receiver grooves, but the only thing that will probably fix it is a new block. You can run more boost/power if you run it on a inertia dyno as the loading is much lower than driving your truck down a track. This is a common problem for high hp LS engines. We never see this until the engine exceeds 1200ft lbs, congrats on the new found power!!

Kurt

PS: How close did you get to your 9 second run?
Old 10-23-2006, 09:17 AM
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im pushing coolent when i beat on the car...but have no related issues. i will look into mine over winter... FTR, i have AFRs, but ARP head bolts instead of studs. stock 6L MLS
Old 10-23-2006, 11:23 AM
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i have the afr's with the basic arp head studs.

yesterday at the track my best run was 10.11 at 136. without the head wind it would have been very close to my goal. i think i can get rid of about 100lb's for my next trip and am going to just go crazy with it and do things like pull the wipers, antena, fold in the mirrors, drain the washer fluid....... i am looking into some caltracs or some other kind of traction aid to help keep things planted.

my truck is on the edge in a few ways and to consistanly run faster than it is right now would mean reworking quite a few systems. right now i am just looking for that extra couple of tenths.

i know knock will can kill me so i wont turn it up if i am geting into some knock but if i have a knock free run and push a little coolant is that a dead give away not to go any higher or might i get away with another psi or so? the coolant level still shows full so it lose much.
Old 10-23-2006, 11:35 AM
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I'm pushing some water, I accept it now, after half a dozen passes I just take the radaitor cap off and pump a little pressure into the stock coolent overflow bottle and pump it back in the radiator..

I recently swapped in some new gaskets and it didnt help that much at all, just part of the deal I guess. I have the regular ARP studs torqued to 80ft lbs with unmilled dart heads. I'm not even making that much power really, 16psi, I'm 9.5:1 compression @ 16 degrees of timing at peak boost with 112 sunoco race fuel.
Old 10-23-2006, 11:38 AM
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Most guys over at Turbomustangs.com run C16.....I just read a post where someone switched to C16 and it went about 1 point RICHER. Seems to be the fuel of choice for FI cars. If I could get it easily, thats what I'd run, but it's spendy.

Craig
Old 10-23-2006, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 1fastWS6
Most guys over at Turbomustangs.com run C16.....I just read a post where someone switched to C16 and it went about 1 point RICHER. Seems to be the fuel of choice for FI cars. If I could get it easily, thats what I'd run, but it's spendy.

Craig
I have ran C16 here and there and found you have to run the car richer with it then the usual 110 or 112.
Old 10-23-2006, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by kp
I have ran C16 here and there and found you have to run the car richer with it then the usual 110 or 112.
thats what i am afraid of. i tried running 118 once and it wouldn't even run till i put a ton more fuel into it. my fuel system is not ideal for what i am trying to do and having to add a bunch of fuel would only make it worse.
Old 10-23-2006, 01:01 PM
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Sounds like its time to turn the nitrous back on! Congrats on the 10.11@136. You are sooooo close.

Kurt
Old 10-23-2006, 01:07 PM
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Pushing water doesn't mean there is a problem. Unless your getting water leaking outside the motor or into the cylinders. I usually push between 1/2 and a full qt on a full boost, max timing pass. It will be the same amount from about pass 5 to pass 50+. This is with GM MLS gaskets.
You need to get rid of the knock. That will hurt parts. We have ran C16 with good luck in the old Formula. I ran 110 with Meth with no issues. I'm now running 116 Extreme from Turbo Blue and I'm really happy with it. Do you log fuel pressure on your passes?
I did find out something interesting yesterday. I competed in a local race for street cars which required full exhaust. For me that means my 5" DP goes into a 3" bullet muffler dumping before the rear. I made no boost changes and it cost me 7psi. The best I could get the car to run was a 8.93 @ 160. But I didn't push a bit of water and made 6 passes. This was at 22* peak timing as well. This just proves that there is nothing wrong with the gaskets what so ever. Probably have near 30 passes on them. Just every setup will have its limit. You just reached yours. Doesn't mean you can't turn it up and push a bit more or turn it back down and not push any.
What was your A/F, RPM, and timing when you had knock?
Old 10-23-2006, 02:38 PM
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i do log the fuel presure and it is kinda wierd. if i watch the gauge is moves a little at the upper rpms and high boost but only drops a couple of psi and just floats around up there. logging the voltage on the sensor it will stay prety steady up to 18psi and 11.5 a/f ratio but at the 20psi run it got eratic. gauge still says 70psi but the sensor voltage indicates it is droping down close to base presure. i am trying to figure out a way to get just a little more fuel out of my fuel system without building a whole new set up. if i only had the gauge to look at i wouldn't even think there might be a problem. the sensor is mounted to the reg after the fuel rails. the rails are plumbed in parallel so i dont think it is a rail issue even though they are kind of on the small side.

i wonder if some kind of surge tank would help me out. something that holds maybe 1/2 a quart but under presure and plumb it to the return line before the regulator.

the kr kicks in after it hits 3rd gear and right when it locks up but that might just be a driveline shock. a little later the kr kicked in prety good and looked real to me. about 5500rpm, 20psi, 17.5deg programed in at that point and af ratio around 11.5 but from the log it looks like it did bump up a hair to upper 11's.

even though the fp gauge doesnt move(much) i think i have an issue looking at the log. i may not have any KR even at 20psi if i take care of that and from what i am hearing if i see no KR and everything else looks ok i might be ok to turn it up a little more even if it is pushing water.

i will get a screen shot of my last run and post it up.
Old 10-23-2006, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 427
Sounds like its time to turn the nitrous back on! Congrats on the 10.11@136. You are sooooo close.

Kurt
wouldnt more boost be safer than adding nitrous into the mix?

with my boost controler i could try more boost but only in 2nd gear, then turn it down a hair for 3rd when the load really goes up.
Old 10-23-2006, 02:48 PM
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I am logging my FP off the autometer gauge output as well and mine does the same. The gauge doesnt move but it bounces from 50 to 62 as soon as I go WOT, did that with every fuel pump setup I had. I thought it was a problem as well but I think that raw voltage needs to be averaged some. The BS3 wideband log is the same way, its never flat like the LC1/EFI logs so I just average it.

I got the last little bit of fuel from one of those voltblasters with my old dual walbro setup. I went from 99% DC to 92% DC by addding one, 16v instead of 13v going down the track made a big difference. So if you just need a little bit more its worth the 80.00 and 5 minutes to install it..
Old 10-23-2006, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by kp
I am logging my FP off the autometer gauge output as well and mine does the same. The gauge doesnt move but it bounces from 50 to 62 as soon as I go WOT, did that with every fuel pump setup I had. I thought it was a problem as well but I think that raw voltage needs to be averaged some. The BS3 wideband log is the same way, its never flat like the LC1/EFI logs so I just average it.

I got the last little bit of fuel from one of those voltblasters with my old dual walbro setup. I went from 99% DC to 92% DC by addding one, 16v instead of 13v going down the track made a big difference. So if you just need a little bit more its worth the 80.00 and 5 minutes to install it..
This is with the 4303 KP?
Old 10-23-2006, 03:22 PM
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yeah, i tried that one. i am running a kb boost a pump with both of my pumps running at 17volts, 2nd pump is still staged. it helped and up to 18psi the voltage from the sensor is prety steady.

i wonder what would happen if i just took a 1 quart aluminum bottle of some kind mounted upside down with the fitting on the bottom plumbed to my return line(before the reg). would the presurized air at the top push the fuel back into the rails when needed.
Old 10-23-2006, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JMBLOWNWS6
This is with the 4303 KP?
Logging the gauge has been the same all the way from a single pump to the 4303. The 4303 moves a LOT of fuel, there is no way ithe pressure is fluctuating that much.
Old 10-23-2006, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by parish8
yeah, i tried that one. i am running a kb boost a pump with both of my pumps running at 17volts, 2nd pump is still staged. it helped and up to 18psi the voltage from the sensor is prety steady.

i wonder what would happen if i just took a 1 quart aluminum bottle of some kind mounted upside down with the fitting on the bottom plumbed to my return line(before the reg). would the presurized air at the top push the fuel back into the rails when needed.
Kind of like an accusump? It would have to be on the pressure side but I dont think it would work that great with such a small amount of fuel. NX had a fuel accumulator they used on one of their direct port kits but that was only good for getting rid of the short fuel pressure drop when the soenoids opened.

How do you figure you are running out of fuel, injectors getting close to 100%?


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