Battery Relocation with Diagram
10-23-2006, 12:42 PM
#1
Battery Relocation with Diagram While trying to clean up the engine bay I have found that the coolant resevervoir is connected to the battery tray. While looking to clean up the engine bay I have decided to relocate the battery to the passenger side rear spare tire well, and get an aftermarket recovery coolant tank to go in the place of the battery.
BMR makes a nice battery tray hold but I have another alternative for less than $30.00 http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...+115&x=21&y=16
I have also found that you can not really run a wet battery inside the car b/c it can smell and is not wize to do. You can either run a Vent tube (Boxed in battery) or spend about $100 on an Optimim battery. In my case I will buy the new battery.
Heres a pic of how I thought the battery setup should be mocked up, I used this for reference http://www.ws6.com/batt-relocate.htm
[IMG]
[/IMG]
I do have some questions regarding the 0,4,8 guage wire, would that be adequate to use (enough power) or should different guage be used? Also, I heard I needed to get welding wire, and if I do how to I go about making the connect on the battery on other spots??? I don't want to solder anything just plug and play. where would I buy a distribution block and do I need to specify what size guage is going into the block or is it adjustable??
Thanks, any help is appreciated
BMR makes a nice battery tray hold but I have another alternative for less than $30.00 http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...+115&x=21&y=16
I have also found that you can not really run a wet battery inside the car b/c it can smell and is not wize to do. You can either run a Vent tube (Boxed in battery) or spend about $100 on an Optimim battery. In my case I will buy the new battery.
Heres a pic of how I thought the battery setup should be mocked up, I used this for reference http://www.ws6.com/batt-relocate.htm
[IMG]
[/IMG] I do have some questions regarding the 0,4,8 guage wire, would that be adequate to use (enough power) or should different guage be used? Also, I heard I needed to get welding wire, and if I do how to I go about making the connect on the battery on other spots??? I don't want to solder anything just plug and play. where would I buy a distribution block and do I need to specify what size guage is going into the block or is it adjustable??
Thanks, any help is appreciated
10-23-2006, 01:13 PM
#5
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (53)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Monticello, Kentucky
Posts: 4,433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey I'm thinking about moving the battery to the trunk too so please post what you use for the coolant recovery tank. I will more than likely want to use the same tank. I was thinking of using a JR dragster fuel cell with no return set in the radiator cradle.
10-23-2006, 02:22 PM
#6
Run your blue 0 guage wire directly to your starter. The starter is priority #1. Then bridge your 4 guage off the starter to your distribution block.
If I decided to run it to the starter first, do I need to block off the opening on the distribution box or not worry about it???
Trending Topics
10-23-2006, 07:51 PM
#9
Launching!
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lexington, Kentucky
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just relocated mine to the rear this past weekend, I used an Odysey battery and I only used 4 guage wire. I made my own battery holder from some aluminum plate, Also I went to the junction block with my wire seems to work fine. I checked the wire while I was cranking the car over it didn't seem to get hot. My only thing is the 680 series battery doesn't like cold weather very well and takes a second to turn the car over at full speed.
10-23-2006, 08:04 PM
#10
You might want to put a ANL fuse holder just off the positive 0 guage wire with a 150 or 200 amp ANL fuse. If you don't give the system a way out, you could burn your stuff to the ground without a fuse if a dead short were to happen. I'm using a ANL 250 amp fuse and holder ( I have a custom built 220 amp chrome alternator on the car ) on my 0 guage main line. If your looking to be NHRA legal you might want to run a separate 4 guage from the kill switch directly to the alternator ( Just FYI if your looking for NHRA legal ). To the guy in Kentucky, the only problem with the small drycell battery is cold weather ( Just like you stated ). I'm actually going to use a yellow top deep cycle optima in my BMR tray.
10-23-2006, 09:16 PM
#11
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Trenton, NJ
Posts: 661
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by dhdenney
Hey I'm thinking about moving the battery to the trunk too so please post what you use for the coolant recovery tank. I will more than likely want to use the same tank. I was thinking of using a JR dragster fuel cell with no return set in the radiator cradle.
10-23-2006, 10:39 PM
#12
Ditto, I'd like to use a coolant recovery tank too, add some underhood bling and AN fittings lol
For Christmas I am buying myself Built 4L80E, BMR 4L80E crossmember, Speed engineering 800Hp 4L80E Driveshaft, TCI control box, and probably either a yank or Vig converter (3200-3400).
Doing motor and Tranny at the same time.
As far as the coolant tank try this http://www.id-usa.com/catalog.asp?CID=5
I will most likely run the bigger one, and just mount it where the battery goes and just run the line from the tank to the Radiator cap line, Done.
10-23-2006, 10:41 PM
#13
You might want to put a ANL fuse holder just off the positive 0 guage wire with a 150 or 200 amp ANL fuse. If you don't give the system a way out, you could burn your stuff to the ground without a fuse if a dead short were to happen.
.I would hate for my car to catch on fire
10-23-2006, 10:58 PM
#14
I would use an ANL fuse holder ( I purchased a Stinger expert series ) about 12 to 18 inches away from the positive terminal at the battery. You don't need any special fittings for the fuse holder. Just make sure the fuse holder matches the guage of wiring your using on the positive side and determine how much draw you will have on the alternator ( add a percentage of increase ) and choose an appropriate ANL fuse ( the fuses come in 50/100/150/200/250/300 amp version). Its important to always fuse your main line, just like you would if your using the 0 guage for a big audio system. You do not want the main line to make contact with metal and produce a dead short without a fuse. The results of not using a fuse of some sort will probably end in a catastrophe of sorts ! Stinger makes a bunch of different ANL fuse holders as well as other quality MFG's.
10-23-2006, 11:18 PM
#16
Originally Posted by T/A KID
http://www.wiremyamp.com/servlet/the...-0-ga.,/Detail
Heres the Distribution box
Heres the Distribution box
There is an easyer way to do this with out the distribution box. You just need to run your 0 or 2 guage wire from the battery in the back directly to the starter. Then a wire from the starter to the back of the alternator, and then from the back of the alternator to the junction block. This way you eliminate the extra distribution block. I ran my car is way for 3 years, then swiched to a lightweight hawker mounted in the stock location.
10-23-2006, 11:44 PM
#17
foggedz you just said what someone else said on another Forum
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...=480288&page=2
I guess the way I have it pictured is actually more difficult that it needs to be.
I plan on running the 0 guage but does it connect to the Front of the starter or the rear (haven't looked at it yet) then run 4 guage from the starter to the alternator, and then 8 guage from the alternator to junction box. The screw on the back of the intake (with the nut and washer) is where I connect the wire from the junction box and starter.
What where your thoughts on the relocation??
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...=480288&page=2
I guess the way I have it pictured is actually more difficult that it needs to be.
There is an easyer way to do this with out the distribution box. You just need to run your 0 or 2 guage wire from the battery in the back directly to the starter. Then a wire from the starter to the back of the alternator, and then from the back of the alternator to the junction block. This way you eliminate the extra distribution block. I ran my car is way for 3 years, then swiched to a lightweight hawker mounted in the stock location.
What where your thoughts on the relocation??
10-24-2006, 12:40 AM
#18
The main positive connects to the top front of the starter. I ran 2 guage from the battery to the starter, then 4 guage from the starter to the alternater, and 4 guage from the alternator to the junction box. 8 guage may work, but im not for sure. I decided to move the battery back up front for weight savings. I droped over 50lb from the car swaping to a Hawker PC680 up front from the optima red top out back.
03-18-2007, 06:19 PM
#20
Bringing my old thread back, I am finally on spring break from college and this week I plan cleaning up the engine bay a little.
I am going to the local parts store tomarrow to get some cable for the battery relocation.
Heres a Quick recap
1/0 Guage from the positive to the starter, Negative to a local metal ground.
4 Guage from the starter to the back of the alternator
8 Guage from the alternator to the Junction box.
From what I have gathered thats it??
Any input fella's
Btw I plan on running it under the car now so does anyone have any ideas on how to route it or to connect it to the Body???
I am going to the local parts store tomarrow to get some cable for the battery relocation.
Heres a Quick recap
1/0 Guage from the positive to the starter, Negative to a local metal ground.
4 Guage from the starter to the back of the alternator
8 Guage from the alternator to the Junction box.
From what I have gathered thats it??
Any input fella's
Btw I plan on running it under the car now so does anyone have any ideas on how to route it or to connect it to the Body???