5.3 Iron block bored to 5.7 then add a little stroke equals??
10-23-2006, 07:14 PM
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5.3 Iron block bored to 5.7 then add a little stroke equals?? what cranks are available for a 5.3 iron block bored to a 5.7?
what do you think about this as a budget nitrous motor? what cubes would you get with different cranks? what aftermarket or ported oil pumps do you suggest? and last but not least....... how much spray "could" it handle?
I am thinking about doin sumptin like this down the road?? with a TSP Ms3 cam etc. While retaining a stock ls6 intake..... and PP 5.3 heads.
Kinda reverse engineering puttin a smaller displacement motor on a 5.7 LS1 based car..... dont ya think? I sorta like this idea.... the 6.0 iron cores are much more expensive and the 5.3's are a dime a dozen.
what do you think about this as a budget nitrous motor? what cubes would you get with different cranks? what aftermarket or ported oil pumps do you suggest? and last but not least....... how much spray "could" it handle?
I am thinking about doin sumptin like this down the road?? with a TSP Ms3 cam etc. While retaining a stock ls6 intake..... and PP 5.3 heads.
Kinda reverse engineering puttin a smaller displacement motor on a 5.7 LS1 based car..... dont ya think? I sorta like this idea.... the 6.0 iron cores are much more expensive and the 5.3's are a dime a dozen.
10-23-2006, 07:22 PM
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I got..................
Your Engine with bore of 3.840 and stroke of 3.9 is 361.33 CID
Your Engine with bore of 3.840 inches and stroke of 3.9 inches is 5,922.25 cc or 5.9 liters
Your Engine with bore of 3.840 and stroke of 3.9 is 361.33 CID
Your Engine with bore of 3.840 inches and stroke of 3.9 inches is 5,922.25 cc or 5.9 liters
10-23-2006, 07:26 PM
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this sounds perfect to me..... the 3.9 crank is shorter than the 4.0... less crank the better. I prefer bore vs. stroke. ( I like RPMS)
Your Engine with bore of 3.898 and stroke of 3.9 is 372.33 CID
Your Engine with bore of 3.898 inches and stroke of 3.9 inches is 6,102.50 cc or 6.1 liters
I assume this is boring it to the standard bore on a 5.7ls1? correct?
soooooo does Wiseco make pistons for the above bore off the shelf?
what are the exact oiling etc issues or differences in the 5.3 vs 5.7? I want more oil pressure than what I have now. Dont want to spin another bearing
Your Engine with bore of 3.898 and stroke of 3.9 is 372.33 CID
Your Engine with bore of 3.898 inches and stroke of 3.9 inches is 6,102.50 cc or 6.1 liters
I assume this is boring it to the standard bore on a 5.7ls1? correct?
soooooo does Wiseco make pistons for the above bore off the shelf?
what are the exact oiling etc issues or differences in the 5.3 vs 5.7? I want more oil pressure than what I have now. Dont want to spin another bearing
10-23-2006, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Cop Car
= a waste of time
use a 6.0 block
use a 6.0 block
why?? a 5.3 block core is less than 75.00..... a 6.0 is over 400.00...... both will need to be machined right?
10-23-2006, 10:03 PM
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Personally, I'd rather have a bigger bore than stroke. Is there any way you can increase the bore and decrease the stroke? Or if could keep the stroke and increase the bore.
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10-23-2006, 10:07 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Louie83
Personally, I'd rather have a bigger bore than stroke. Is there any way you can increase the bore and decrease the stroke? Or if could keep the stroke and increase the bore.
That is what I am doing with my 69', I'm using the crank out of a 4.8 (3.27 stroke) and using a 3.898 bore, the block will hold up just as good as the 6.0, and for added insurance drop a bit of hard-blok in it. I bought this engine for the same reason, dime a dozen and CHEAP, the 4.8 is the same block as a 5.3, the cranks are different and the rods are longer in a 4.8. I'm running a 6.125 SCAT rod, factory 4.8 crank (still good to same HP levels as LS1/5.3 cranks), some Diamond FI pistons. It's essentially a 312ci LSx motor. It'll rev quick and high. Add a Kenne Bell on top of it to make up for the small loss in low end torque and you have yourself a nice little screamer
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10-23-2006, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandon Boomhauer
whats the 5.3 bore?
what can it be bored to?
and you can find a 6l shortblock for 600 if you look enough. its not that hard.
what can it be bored to?
and you can find a 6l shortblock for 600 if you look enough. its not that hard.
bored to 3.898 like an ls1 block iirc.... also you can bore it to 4.020 or so if i recall with testing. also a 5.3 block can be found from 50.00 to 150.00 it is the 2500 HD LQ9 iron block motor i think....... plan on spending 350 for a used 6.0 or 450 for a new one. That extra money will help buy a forged crank.
I dont see why more dont do the 5.3?? of course...some of this info came from a tech sponsor.
10-23-2006, 10:31 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Forteen3GT
bored to 3.898 like an ls1 block iirc.... also you can bore it to 4.020 or so if i recall with testing. also a 5.3 block can be found from 50.00 to 150.00...... plan on spending 350 for a used 6.0 or 450 for a new one. That extra money will help buy a forged crank.
I dont see why more dont do the 5.3?? of course...some of this info came from a tech sponsor.
I dont see why more dont do the 5.3?? of course...some of this info came from a tech sponsor.
You don't need a forged crank, the factory ones will hold up fine unless your pushing 1000+rwhp. A friend of mine works for SCT in Orlando and one of the cars there is pushing 836rwhp with a factory 5.3 crank still (the 5.3 and LS1 crank are the same). I'm keeping my 4.8 crank for a shorter stroke. The block can be overbored to 3.908 safely, not sure about the 4.020 but I'm just gonna go stock LS1 bore size on mine, throw in a little hardblock and a maingirdle and I plan on pushing close to 700whp.
10-23-2006, 10:32 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Forteen3GT
I dont see why more dont do the 5.3??
10-23-2006, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 1FSTZ71
You don't need a forged crank, the factory ones will hold up fine unless your pushing 1000+rwhp. A friend of mine works for SCT in Orlando and one of the cars there is pushing 836rwhp with a factory 5.3 crank still (the 5.3 and LS1 crank are the same). I'm keeping my 4.8 crank for a shorter stroke. The block can be overbored to 3.908 safely, not sure about the 4.020 but I'm just gonna go stock LS1 bore size on mine, throw in a little hardblock and a maingirdle and I plan on pushing close to 700whp.
10-23-2006, 10:40 PM
#15
Originally Posted by Forteen3GT
i like the idea of a 3.9 eagle crank.... vs the 3.622 stock crank. should get me to around 372 cubic inch or a 6.2 ltr or so.
Ya your going the opposite of me, you want more stroke. If you want the more stroke than you are stuck with an aftermarket replacment. But I think the 5.3 block is a good idea, cheap and easy to come by. Got mine complete from intake manifold to oil pan for $500 with an engine stand and it had 27K miles. I've built a couple screamer Gen I sbc's. Last one was a 7500rpm shift solid vavletrain 360ci motor in my Iroc with a 4000rpm stall converter and 4.10's. Save alot of money by doing your own work lol
10-23-2006, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 1FSTZ71
Ya your going the opposite of me, you want more stroke. If you want the more stroke than you are stuck with an aftermarket replacment. But I think the 5.3 block is a good idea, cheap and easy to come by. Got mine complete from intake manifold to oil pan for $500 with an engine stand and it had 27K miles. I've built a couple screamer Gen I sbc's. Last one was a 7500rpm shift solid vavletrain 360ci motor in my Iroc with a 4000rpm stall converter and 4.10's. Save alot of money by doing your own work lol
well really i just want forged. but gettin more stroke wont hurt my setup... i figure the 3.9 is better than the 4.0.... less stroke the better.... i assume there is nothing between the 3.622 and 3.9 right??
10-23-2006, 11:27 PM
#17
Originally Posted by Forteen3GT
well really i just want forged. but gettin more stroke wont hurt my setup... i figure the 3.9 is better than the 4.0.... less stroke the better.... i assume there is nothing between the 3.622 and 3.9 right??
I haven't ran across anything but haven't really looked. I see no need for a forged crank in these motors IMO, just like old school Pontiacs with the nodular cranks, get a good machine shop to go over em and they see 7000+rpm and 1000+ HP in the 400's and 455's. I'm doing forged rods and pistons, nodular crank, head/main studs and a main girdle. I don't see that breaking anytime soon
10-24-2006, 12:04 AM
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i can get you a 6.0 complete motor for 800 bucks man. unless you got the 5.3 block for free its a waste. also you would probably be limited in piston choice with a 5.3 bore. when you get the 6.0 you just need to have the bore honed.
you want to have the biggest bore possible. small bores limit hp, shoud valves and limit your choice of heads. with a 4.00 inch bore the only heads that are excluded from your usage are the LS7 heads. with the same heads on a 5.3 and a 6.0, with the same cubic inch displacement the 6.0 would produce a noticible ammount more hp.
forged cranks are a complete waste of money. stock LS1 cranks have seen 1500 hp reliably. you would have less money, and more cubic inchs (i think) with a 6.0 block with a stock crank. you dont need to replace the rods either, just put forged pistons on top of the stock 6.0 rotating assembly
you want to have the biggest bore possible. small bores limit hp, shoud valves and limit your choice of heads. with a 4.00 inch bore the only heads that are excluded from your usage are the LS7 heads. with the same heads on a 5.3 and a 6.0, with the same cubic inch displacement the 6.0 would produce a noticible ammount more hp.
forged cranks are a complete waste of money. stock LS1 cranks have seen 1500 hp reliably. you would have less money, and more cubic inchs (i think) with a 6.0 block with a stock crank. you dont need to replace the rods either, just put forged pistons on top of the stock 6.0 rotating assembly
10-24-2006, 12:16 AM
#19
Originally Posted by Cop Car
i can get you a 6.0 complete motor for 800 bucks man. unless you got the 5.3 block for free its a waste. also you would probably be limited in piston choice with a 5.3 bore. when you get the 6.0 you just need to have the bore honed.
you want to have the biggest bore possible. small bores limit hp, shoud valves and limit your choice of heads. with a 4.00 inch bore the only heads that are excluded from your usage are the LS7 heads. with the same heads on a 5.3 and a 6.0, with the same cubic inch displacement the 6.0 would produce a noticible ammount more hp.
forged cranks are a complete waste of money. stock LS1 cranks have seen 1500 hp reliably. you would have less money, and more cubic inchs (i think) with a 6.0 block with a stock crank. you dont need to replace the rods either, just put forged pistons on top of the stock 6.0 rotating assembly
you want to have the biggest bore possible. small bores limit hp, shoud valves and limit your choice of heads. with a 4.00 inch bore the only heads that are excluded from your usage are the LS7 heads. with the same heads on a 5.3 and a 6.0, with the same cubic inch displacement the 6.0 would produce a noticible ammount more hp.
forged cranks are a complete waste of money. stock LS1 cranks have seen 1500 hp reliably. you would have less money, and more cubic inchs (i think) with a 6.0 block with a stock crank. you dont need to replace the rods either, just put forged pistons on top of the stock 6.0 rotating assembly
The rods in the 5.3 are of the same material from what I've seen, but I would replace them either way. The 5.3 block can see over a 3.9xx bore, so piston limitations isn't a factor. Now I wouldn't wanna go as big as 4.0 on one (even though some people have done it). It seems like these LSx iron blocks are similar to the old Pontiacs where the only difference between a 350 and a 455 was bore and stroke, punch it out and swap cranks (of course the main journal dia. was different but you could grind the crank down or open up the block with succesful results). I do agree the 6.0 block is an awesome choice, but alot of people are price gouging them now-a-days, kinda like LS1's sky rocketed in price, I see 100K mile motors going for 2K. I got my complete engine with 27K for 500 bucks with an engine stand haha. I could part it out and almost make my money back on it.
10-24-2006, 10:46 AM
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4.8/5.3s have a diffrent block than the 6.0 and 5.7.. its not just a bore/stroke diffrence, its several diffrent blocks
4.8/5.3 cast
5.3 aluminum SSR motor and LS4
5.7 aluminum LS1
6.0 aluminum LS2
6.0 cast LQ4/9
7.0 aluminum LS7
and now 6.2 L92
4.8/5.3 cast
5.3 aluminum SSR motor and LS4
5.7 aluminum LS1
6.0 aluminum LS2
6.0 cast LQ4/9
7.0 aluminum LS7
and now 6.2 L92