99camarosupersport

iTrader: (6)

I hope this isnt in the wrong section, anyway i'm thinking of rebuilding my engine this winter when the cars put up. I'm going forged regardless i want to do it right, but my question is i'm thinking of going to 383 cubes. How much more torque should i pick up and what are guys with 383's generally putting down. How much should i expect this to cost, and can anyone point me in the direction of some sponsors that sell forged kits and rebuild kits 383 kits etc. anything else i should take into consideration? thanks!

99camarosupersport

iTrader: (6)

ttt..

WernerGMHTP

iTrader: (12)

As to a full rebuild using forged stroker components, see the latest issues of GM High-Tech Performance starting with August 2006. Links to 3 of the eventual 4 segments are as follows:

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0608htp_ls1_engine_build/
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0609htp_stroker_build/
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0611_ghtp_ls1_engine_build/

These stories were written by yours truly. The final installment will be in the January 2007 issue, which will be coming out within the next few weeks. (HP and TQ results will be included therein.)

As to "rebuild kits," I'm actually in the market for one right now too... I'm going to rebuild a basically stock LS1 (reusing stock crank and rods), so I'm looking for oversize cast pistons and the like. They seem somewhat hard to come across (at least where I've looked thus far), so any information anyone has on such kits would be appreciated! Thoughts anyone?

Steve Bryant

iTrader: (1)

Werner,
First, I'd like to complement you on the series of articles. They are well written and illustrated!

Now as to the stock engine you want to rebuild:
1. Is this for an existing vehicle that you currently own?
2. What are your goals for the vehicle?
3. Will you plan to reuse the existing block?
4. Would you be open to using a cast iron block and reusing your crank, rods, covers, pan, sensors, etc?
5. What is your budget?

Once you answer these questions, we can give you some more guidance.

All my best,

Steve

Steve Bryant

iTrader: (1)

99camarosupersport,
I'll ask you the same questions as I posed to Werner. Once you respond, I'll be happy to give you some suggestions. Hopefully others will oblige also!

All my best,

Steve

PS
I'm building a 408 Stroker for my truck this winter. I've been planning this for a couple of years, maybe three. I've collected most of my parts and selected a machine shop. I've been able to buy when I could get a good deal as well as taken the time to put aside the money so that I could afford make purchases when the right opportunities have presented themselves.

This will be for a daily driver/tow vehicle. I'm maintaining 9.5:1 Static CR and have purchased the following: Used 6.0 Block (cleaned, inspected and measured), Callies DragonSlayer 4.0" Stroke Crank, CompStar 6.125" rods, Custom Wiseco 4.030" Pistons (-18 cc pistons, offset pins, 4032 Alloy, coated skirts and crown). I still have to buy bearings, rings and head gaskets, but that's about all. Also, I'm going to aftermarket heads. I'll have my main journals align honed (one bearing cap will have to be milled .001" first, have the block decked so the pistons will be flush with the deck and over bored and honed to 4.030".

99camarosupersport

iTrader: (6)

Now as to the stock engine you want to rebuild:
1. Is this for an existing vehicle that you currently own?
yes see sig
2. What are your goals for the vehicle?
a new engine, but better than it is now...IE 383ci seems to be a "cheap" cough way to do this. it's going forged either way i would prefer. I have no specific time slip oriented goals for the car, perhaps mid 11's or better on all motor and 10's with nitrous? I just want a new engine that i don't have to worry about ****** up ( i have 15x,xxx K ) and i want it to last a be better than a stock rebuild lol.
3. Will you plan to reuse the existing block?
yes.
4. Would you be open to using a cast iron block and reusing your crank, rods, covers, pan, sensors, etc?
would rather not use an iron block, others ya i'd be fine.
5. What is your budget?
well if i remember right, all the forged equip. was like 9xx$ and a 383 kit i saw forged was around 15xx$ sound right? anyways, preferably less than 2k, i could just go buy a 20k mile ls1 from the junkyard for that and swap my goodies in. but the idea of a forged 383 is SOO much more appealing, so some extra bucks might be in order if needed.

99camarosupersport

iTrader: (6)

ps it's not letting me view the online articles!

WernerGMHTP

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the article compliments, a whole bunch of research and time went them! 99camarosupersport, looks like you need to copy and paste the links into your browser, for some reason clicking on them won't work for me either - I probably screwed up posting them somehow.

Answers to Steve's question:
Now as to the stock engine you want to rebuild:
1. Is this for an existing vehicle that you currently own?
A: I don't know. I'm going to rebuild a "stock" LS1 engine and then either install it in a yet-to-be-determined vehicle or sell it.
2. What are your goals for the vehicle?
A: Don't know yet! But it will be a basically stock engine.
3. Will you plan to reuse the existing block?
A: Yes
4. Would you be open to using a cast iron block and reusing your crank, rods, covers, pan, sensors, etc?
A: It has to be an aluminum block, and yes, I am going to reuse me stock rotating assembly sans pistons. The real thing I'm looking for is a set of cast / hypereutectic oversize pistons to match the honed block. I'm having trouble finding a manufacturer for these, and figured they'd be part of a "rebuild kit" offered by either GM of the aftermarket.
5. What is your budget?
A: Unknown but I am sure with all the parts I am going to reuse it can't be that expensive!

Steve Bryant

iTrader: (1)

99camarosupersport,
The Eagle Speciality Products LS1 Rotating Assemblies are probably the least expensive way to go. Here's a link to their web site product page http://www.eaglerod.com/products/Che...ssemblies.html. The prices listed are suggested selling price (SSP), although many retailers sell them for less (including several of the sponsors here at LS1tech.com). If your block only needs to be honed with a deck plate and your miscellaneous seals and parts don't run over 300; you can probably do the stroker rebuild for under $3,500 if you supply the labor.

WernerGMHTP,
Keith Black might be making some hypereutectic pistons for the LS1 now, I'm not sure. The GM/OEM pistons are cast/coated pistons made by Mahle. They are probably available in .005" or so oversize. The Clevite Division of Dana may make a complete LS1 Rebuild Kit. Would you plan to reuse the cam and heads?

Steve

WernerGMHTP

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the info Steve, I'll check those contacts out. It'll probably involve some phone calls and such as info on web sites has been hard to come by so far as I've seen. I am sure that has to be someone who makes a non-forged oversize piston for the LS1 - if anyone knows of anything for sure please let me know!

I'll be reusing the cam and heads for this engine, yes. I will definately have a valve job done on the heads and install new guides, springs, etc. No porting or anything - it's all designed to be a "rebuild/freshening", otherwise of course I'd be using all sorts of aftermarket hi-po stuff like I did with the Trans Am for GMHTP.

99camarosupersport

iTrader: (6)

Are those eaglerod assemblies forged? Also 383 is about the max for the stock aluminum block correct? This will be my first engine rebuild, but i want to do this myself i just want to make sure i get every detail correct.

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

383s are stupid...

get a 6.0 LQ4 for $800 and put forged pistons/connecting rods in it, opens up the possiblity for L92 heads also. you will have less money in a better set up

99camarosupersport

iTrader: (6)

How much less are we talking? what about the wiring harness etc. Also you forgot to read that i'd prefer an alum. block, those are iron correct?

70 chevelle

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-internal-engine/521749-l92-blocks-heads-sdpc.html

I would spend some time looking through this thread. Scoggin Dickey looks like he is going to be offering a killer deal . I 'm shopping around and having a hard time trying to find a way to beat that deal. yes it is an aluminum block

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

99camarosupersport= if you have the funds sdpc has a great deal on some 4.00-4.005 pistons right now=you get a free set of eagle rods.i didn't look at c/h for them but that would go great for either a 364 or 402.i'll gander and repost.

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-sales-specials/595730-free-connecting-rods-sdpc.html

here they are,i'm surprised nobody has jumped on any of these so far.

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

we are talking at most an extra $300. your harness works on it, your everything works on it. it would be a direct replacement.

you have no real reason why you should stick with aluminum its a 100 lb diffrence from iron to aluminum blocks, which is very minimal when you are talking about going from a 3700 lb car to a 3800 lb car.

if you are dead set on buying a stroker kit, put it in the LQ4 block, you will go from 383 to 402 CI. its going to cost you about $200 to have your stock block cleaned, checked and the block honed. for $500 from your local GM dealership you can have a brand new LQ4 block. you are wanting so spend $1000 to gain cubic inches, why not spend an extra $300 while you are at it.

if on a budget, you can get a 50,000 mile complete LQ4 for $1000, or find short blocks for $6-800 only put forged pistons in it. or like said before go with forged connecting rods with the pistons for extra insurance. stock crank will take whatever you want for this build.

99camarosupersport

iTrader: (6)

IF i did go the LQ4 route and went with the 402, I would prefer buy the block and put forged pistons and rods in it. ( stupid question, but are the pistons are rods generally the only thing you guys put in your cars that are forged? ) i guess the 402 would put out more power and make up for the 100lbs. You're right i have no real reason to stay with aluminum, but it's just a stupid *** personal preference of mine. How vast would the difference be between the 402 vs. 383...a guesstimate of RWHP and RWTQ? and yes, i'm def. on a budget. prefer to keep it under 2k...if possible :S

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

it will be rough to even just rebuild your motor for 2k. i have like $1700 in my rebuild... you will spend about 2k just on a stock rebuild.. good thing about if you went with a complete LQ4 is that you could sell your motor minus the oil pan and water pump and get some cash that way.

99camarosupersport

iTrader: (6)

true i guess, besides the block is there any differences in the lq4's and ls1's? to be brutally honest, i've never built/rebuilt an engine and i've only done the minor things. i know i can do it though, would just like to have a list of all of the things i'd need parts wise in front of me. And what is the l92 block? is that the iron LS2? I'm not asking this stuff like alot of people may do for ***** and giggles, but i'm dead set on doing this **** while the cars in for the winter any help is appreciated alot. Sorry for the dumb questions too, remember though you all started somewhere