5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

well first off my car is a 98 ta with 150 k the engine is strong no smoke good oil pressiure the tranny is strong also no slippage firm shiftswas told it was driven on interstate alot.my recent mods are 3.73 gear complete rearend rebuild hypertech pp3 slp lid k&n maf screen removed and a flowmaster cat back i want to run mid to high 12s on sticky tires n/a i dont want to change converter my wife drives caar dont want n20 been there done it is fun but costly in long run bone stock in this meaning everything plugs wires etc the car ran 14.50@98mph with a 2.10 60ft with 2.73s in rear i think it will go mid 13s on sticky tires now but tracks closed so whho knows im goin to bank in a few weeks to get a 2000 loan to do more mods what should i do next i do all my work myself and im very mechanicaly inclined just new to the ls1 any help aspreciated

Wyckedcamaro

iTrader: (2)

give the money to me.. thats what you can do with the 2 grand.

sroach20

iTrader: (31)

just do all boltons, because without a stall your limited on size of the cam.

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

any one else i dont give money away and i know the cam converter theory i was thinkin a cam with a little more lift maybe different ratio rockers if i do a converter i dont want a really loose one just enough to compensate the cam i will be removing engine when i do my mods aftermarket brand names items lowest prices more bang for the buck any real help aprecieated

10secopcar

i know you say you don't wanna do the vertor swap. but i have a 3600 in mine and there really isn't that big of a drivability change. and it will also give you a big performance gain.

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

I am afraid you are your own worst enemy here. You want to take a car that runs 14.50s and run 12s WITHOUT a verter OR N20 Time to re-think your plans on either the mods or the E.T. goals

Nemo02Z

First get rid of the noise maker exhaust, magnaflow is better..... Change out the converter it does not make it undrivable, throw in a 3000 stall you wont be wasting any rpms with that.... get some headers, shift kit for trans, different programmer and still should have some flow left over to take your wife out.....

brink

how are u only running 14.5 with a auto ls1?

i averaged 13.7 with my completely stock M6 when i first got it... now its down to roughly 13.4 with my minor mods.. and a flowmaster 80 series.. and the *updated* driver mod!!

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

What elevation is your local track at?

Also, please don't take out a loan to mod your car. If you can't afford to mod it, how are you going to afford fixing it when things break. 150K is starting to get up there.

You need to re-baseline your car before you assume that you got almost a full second from gears, tires, lid, A/F and the PPIII. Not saying its impossible, but that will give you a better idea of what's required to get the rest of the way there.

Definitely start with your bolt-ons. If you want to get there cheap, sell the flowmaster cat-back, get some LT's, ory and put a cutout in the Y ahead of the stock cat-back. Then get an LS6 manifold and port the TB. Some Pullies can't hurt either. At that point, another jaunt to the track will give you an idea if tuning will be sufficient to get to high 12's, or if you need to step up.

I don't think the Hypertech will be enough tuner to get the max out of your car with a full exhaust, and it definitely won't if you go to a mild cam.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

If you go with a cam, you'll actually need a converter... trying to hold the car at a red light with a cam is going to be a PITA. So, drivability will be helped, because the converter will be looser and allow a bit more slipping to help keep the car from rolling forward.

What I'd do (Using TSP as an example - good budget stuff there):

-TCI Max Effort StreetFighter 3700 Converter - $530 (will feel pretty tight with the 3.73s and be a good match for a cam - but can do the 3200 for $500 and it will be even closer to stock)
-PermaCool 22,000 GVW Transmission Cooler - $50 (necessary)
-Pacesetter Coated 1-3/4" Race Headers & Off-Road Y-Pipe - $500 (25rwhp gain)
-Flowtech Exhaust Cutout - $35 (Flowmaster exhaust on the F-body flows as bad as stock - but if you like the sound, just put a cutout in the Y-Pipe and run it open at the track)
-LS6 Intake - $460 (will open up 10-20rwhp)
-Mail Order Tune - $225 (since there's no cam, just have a base tune put in to get the most out of the intake and exhaust for now)

That's $1800. Since I didn't see a lid, I'll assume you need one of those, too.
-Lid with K&N Filter - $150 (5-10rwhp)

$1950. Probably around 300rwhp with the converter. Should do 12.5s with traction.

You still need some more stuff, but that can come later. Those items are as follows:

-Shaner S2 Ported Throttle-Body - $169 (another 5-10rwhp)
-TSP MS3 Camshaft Package with PRC Dual Springs and Pushrods - $700 (with the other stuff installed, 50-60rwhp gain)
-TSP LS6 Heads - $1050 (already have the PRC Springs - good for probably 40-50rwhp over the '98 LS1 heads)
-LS2 Timing Set - $90 (for safety - 150k miles is getting old)
-TSP Ported LS6 Oil Pump - $140 (probably a good idea with the cam as well)
-Powerbond Underdrive Pulley with Belts - $230 (5-10rwhp)
-SVO 30lbs Injectors - $300
-Retune - $225 to $500 (probably the TSP mail order tune will work, since they know how the PRCs and MS3 work with these components - I don't know the fee on a retune, but it probably isn't much)

Price of those: $2679 + tune. Do it in stages and pay the first $2k off and get this stuff next (loans are not good, but if the car is paid off, it's a good way to do lots of stuff at once, especially if this is a second car). This package would clear you of 400rwhp, and then you have an 11-sec car all the time with the stock suspension. Pray your transmission holds (it won't) and your 10-bolt rearend holds (it won't). Such a money pit. Sigh. But that's why you should do the boltons first and then step up to this other stuff.

Also, for $420, the TSP True Dual Exhaust would flow probably better than the Off-Road Y-Pipe and cutout and sound better than the Flowmaster. That'd make the headers $375 without the Y-Pipe. So, you're looking at $795 for exhaust vs $535 + Flowmaster cost. It's pretty close, but since you have the Flowmaster already, just use the cutout at the track.

Btw, I'm not advocating TSP, but they have good buys on a lot of things. It's not a bad place to use to start modding, especially if you are looking for things mailorder to install yourself.

vince3

iTrader: (1)

if your are not going to change the convertor,
ls6 cam and springs
ls6 intake
headers y pipe and cut out for POS flowmaster.
Done.