BatmobileWS6

I have a 2000 trans am ws6 and I am looking to be able to run mid to low 11's in the 1/4 mile. It's not my daily driver but I want it to remain streetable.
The mods I have so far are:
Air intake, long tube headers w/cut out, full exhaust and 373 gears.
I am planning on an agressive cam and heads. With the cam, heads and existing mods...what other supporting mods are needed? Besides suspension and braking what are all the supporting mods necessary?
Thanks.

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

what cam are you exactly planning on?....why aggressive yet streetable?....there are plenty of guys with mild cams and good heads running mid-high 11s.....a bottle can be the easiest route honestly because you can use it when you need it.....

a new clutch, a better rearend, and all the suspension you can get your hands on....stb,phb,lca,shocks,tq arm....

BatmobileWS6

Im not positive on the cam right now. Thinking mabey 228/228? Somewhere along those lines...Im doing some research to figure out what exactly I want and I have until spring when I take the car out of storage.
Agressive yet streetable because I will use the car only for street driving pleasure and dragstrip. I want to stay away from nitrous, for now atleast haha.
So with the current mods and adding a cam, heads, clutch and rear end upgrades...is there any other necessary mods? Are other engine internals needed with the cam upgrade?

300bhp/ton

it depends really what you want to go for. The list is endless.

Most places offer cam install kits, which include, springs/rods and such. But a better oil pump, timing chain, head studs and fuel injectors can all be recommended as sensible upgrades. A pulley would also be a sensible option if doing a cam. A different intake manifold would also help, if you plan on higher rpms (most agressive cams will) then something like a FAST 90/90 setup would be a good idea.

If it's ET's you are interested in then sorting out the chassis and suspension would be more worth while though, lca, sfc, body mounted torque arm. 12 bolt rear and some sticky tyres with plenty of sidewall.

Nitrous is another option however, a few bolt ons and a 100 or 125 shot will make a massive difference in ET.

transamfreak01

iTrader: (8)

dude there are people around here running bolt ons, suspention and nitrous and in the 11's. thats going to be your cheapest route and theres nothing wrong with nitrous. a **** load of people use it. plus it will be great for the street... u wont have to worry about not being streetable b/c its only going to do that when ur little finger wants to flip that switch. just my .02

ChaseSS

iTrader: (17)

well if you are doing some sticky tires you will want to consider a new rear-end because sticky tires (DR's)+heads/cam= new rearend... You can really help your 60 foot by getting adjustable shocks, LCA's and re-lo brackets. A clutch will be a must after a couple launches with a H/C setup

BatmobileWS6

Well I guess its more trap speed that im looking for, I want it to be fast, and then the time will come with traction and practice. I also have a all wheel drive subaru wrx, where launching and traction is not a problem haha.
So you recommend a cam kit? Im going to look into and research it alot more...but is new springs/rods important/neccesary?
I am definitely going to do something with the rear end, clutch, tires and such but im just trying to figure out what power/supporting are needed...
What is the re-lo brackets?
gosh this is getting expensive

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

with those gears, just a pair of good heads and a Mild cam such as TR 224 cam ( which isvery streetable) can get you in the mid 11s, no problem. You just need to make sure you have a strong rear, to get good 60' s

ChaseSS

iTrader: (17)

re-lo brackets reposition the control arms to the proper angle, they aren't expensive... and yes if you do a cam new springs, retainers, and rods are a very very wise upgrade to do at the same time... stock springs won't last long at all on a cam, and if you do heads they usually come complete with everything (unless you buy bare) you need so that price is already factored in

300bhp/ton

Check out Texas Speed & Performance or Thunder Racing, they both offer complete cam kits including a cam of your choice. Personally I wouldn't go too mild as you'll only regret it later. TSP's Torquer V3 is probably where I'd start looking.

Combine this with a new clutch and a ls6 intake with a stock ported TB and a tune and your motor will be making decent HP. If you want more then a simple 100 shot would be a cheap next upgrade.

Im going to look into and research it alot more...but is new springs/rods important/neccesary?[/quote]
YES is the simple answer. A very mild cam such as a LS6 cam will probably work, but even the GM hotcam needs new springs or you'll see valve float.

A cam kit including cam will only set you back about $700-1000

This is a tough choice, a new rear will easily cost you $2500. My advice would be stick with the 10 bolt until it breaks then replace it. As long as you don't beat on it too hard with sticky tyres it will probably survive for a bit.

AutomagicLS1

iTrader: (18)

My car is an auto with a yank PT4000 stall im going to run a 100 shot this weekend...hoping for ATLEAST high 11's

notatruews6

iTrader: (3)

Forged it, Bottle it, and go! lol

BatmobileWS6

Thanks I think the cam package, heads and intake manifold will be the power mods.
Do you recommend a timming chain and pulleys?

blue01ta

iTrader: (4)

What intake do you have? Also if you are just looking for #'s there are a few things you can do that are fairly cheap or even free. Like losing the back seats, porting the TB, and taking off the A/C belt. Remember if you get a new complete set of heads you won't need everything in the cam package. I would recommend the timing chain and pulley. With a stick car you will only need the crank pulley and you can get I think it's the LS2 timing chain (someone correct me if I'm wrong) from SDPC for like $30 so why not do it while your in there.

BatmobileWS6

Im not sure what intake...only receipt I don't have for the car. It's a clear, see-through lid with a k&n type filter.
Yeah while looking, I noticed that some of the parts were that same...I am ulmost looking at a h/c package deal. But I don't know how much custimization you can do with the package deal.
I think I will go with the pulley and chain...relatively cheap, might as well.

blue01ta

iTrader: (4)

The clear thing with the filter is just a lid not an intake by the way. And for the pulley itself you will also probably need a new belt. Altogether probably about $200-$250. Check the for sale section. There's usually one or two in there for a decent price.

BatmobileWS6

Yeah I was looking at that and there is a stock size belt and belts slightly different. Which one would I want to go with? What will the difference in size do/change?

s346k

iTrader: (4)

if you want low 11s in a stick car, you need one of 2 things...

a ****-ton of power to provide you with a 125+ trap, or A LOT of traction.

you figure stalled auto cars go low 11s with a 118-120 trap, and this is assuming a low 1.5x 60'. also bear in mind that (more often than not) a stick car with the same 60' and trap will have a slower ET. you need a 12 bolt, slicks, cam, and suspension to even be close...or a tin can for a car.

Cld069

iTrader: (2)

Agreeing with all of the above, you might also want to put your car on a diet. Get all the unnecessary weight off. I want to know how the 228/228 is also, Im stuck between something around that and a 232/232 but Im afraid a 232/232 might be too much.

BatmobileWS6

How much power would you say for a 125+ trap?
Because the trap speed is moreso what im going for versus the et...