What air filter/lid/induction?
10-31-2006, 05:40 AM
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What air filter/lid/induction? Hi y'all,
I'm getting my parts list together of stuff I plan on putting onto my 2k 'hawk ... as for air filter/lid/intake, I was looking into getting something like the Volant Induction air filter, dual cone ... alternative would be the blackwing lid, which is hard to get a hold of ... haven't heard much good of the "newer" SLP lid ...
From price/performance point of view, is the $$ for the Volant well spent ($314 at tbyrne at the moment), or will a whisper lid w/ high flow air filter as well for less money?
Also, is it worth replacing the bellow with a smooth one? I see them sold around $70 ...
I'm getting my parts list together of stuff I plan on putting onto my 2k 'hawk ... as for air filter/lid/intake, I was looking into getting something like the Volant Induction air filter, dual cone ... alternative would be the blackwing lid, which is hard to get a hold of ... haven't heard much good of the "newer" SLP lid ...
From price/performance point of view, is the $$ for the Volant well spent ($314 at tbyrne at the moment), or will a whisper lid w/ high flow air filter as well for less money?
Also, is it worth replacing the bellow with a smooth one? I see them sold around $70 ...
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10-31-2006, 10:54 AM
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As far as lids go, the MTI lid is the best performing according to GM High Tech Performance magazine. Also, they have a clear version which looks cool. The SLP lid is the better fitting lid though. Probably should keep a paper filter in there too. I hear the oil from a K&N filter dirties up the MAF and affects performance.
10-31-2006, 12:11 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by Tainted
ok lemme go ahead and shoot this thread down
1. a lid is a lid is a lid is a lid MTI won by what? .02 hp?
2. bellows are appearance, nothing more
3. K&N filters, yes can **** up the maf sensor IF you over oil it.
1. a lid is a lid is a lid is a lid MTI won by what? .02 hp?
2. bellows are appearance, nothing more
3. K&N filters, yes can **** up the maf sensor IF you over oil it.
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10-31-2006, 12:48 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Tainted
ok lemme go ahead and shoot this thread down
1. a lid is a lid is a lid is a lid MTI won by what? .02 hp?
2. bellows are appearance, nothing more
3. K&N filters, yes can **** up the maf sensor IF you over oil it.
1. a lid is a lid is a lid is a lid MTI won by what? .02 hp?
2. bellows are appearance, nothing more
3. K&N filters, yes can **** up the maf sensor IF you over oil it.
.02 hp is a big gain and can be a positive thing in a close battle.
11-03-2006, 05:43 AM
#11
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lid (any - TSP, SLP)
OEM paper filter - good for 500bhp!!!!
FTRA (Fast Toys Ram Air)
This will work as well as any other setup including ones cost 4 times more. So why bother spending the extra $$$$ for no gain.
FTRA isn't so good if you're an auto, becuase you will be wanting a tranny cooler and I don't think there's room for both. Unless you do some customising.
Bellows -
:lol
LEAVE it stock, it offers nothing. If you really really must, just go and buy a 3x3" section of humped silcon hose for $10. Hundreds of places sell silicon hose. And this is all the SLP bellows is, except they ask $50 for it.
Still either way it's worth ZERO bhp.
While we are at it leave the MAF alone as well, stock its fine for well over 500rwhp.
Port your stock TB (see link in sig). And get yourself a LS6 intake.
End result = a budget intake setup thats cost a fraction of other possible setups and it will still kick ****!!!
If you plan on a wild cam then a FAST 90/90 combo will work better than LS6 intake, but expect it to cost you around $1000 for 15-20rwhp on a cammed LS1 and about 5rwhp on a stock internal one (n/a of course, FI's a different ball game)
OEM paper filter - good for 500bhp!!!!
FTRA (Fast Toys Ram Air)
This will work as well as any other setup including ones cost 4 times more. So why bother spending the extra $$$$ for no gain.
FTRA isn't so good if you're an auto, becuase you will be wanting a tranny cooler and I don't think there's room for both. Unless you do some customising.
Bellows -
:lol LEAVE it stock, it offers nothing. If you really really must, just go and buy a 3x3" section of humped silcon hose for $10. Hundreds of places sell silicon hose. And this is all the SLP bellows is, except they ask $50 for it.
Still either way it's worth ZERO bhp.
While we are at it leave the MAF alone as well, stock its fine for well over 500rwhp.
Port your stock TB (see link in sig). And get yourself a LS6 intake.
End result = a budget intake setup thats cost a fraction of other possible setups and it will still kick ****!!!
If you plan on a wild cam then a FAST 90/90 combo will work better than LS6 intake, but expect it to cost you around $1000 for 15-20rwhp on a cammed LS1 and about 5rwhp on a stock internal one (n/a of course, FI's a different ball game)
11-03-2006, 01:55 PM
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I agree, no need to spend more on the Volant. Although I wouldn't port your own thottle body unless you are comfortable grinding metal precicely. Yea most say it's a piece of cake, but for $150 that a sponser will charge for a ported TB after core, it's worth it. But you definately want to get an ls6 intake and ported tb to go along with the rest of your intake tract.
11-16-2006, 12:35 PM
#13
The FTRA performs best with the SLP air lid.
If you want to use a tranny cooler with the FTRA, just relocate it off the rad/ac condenser. You really don't want it on the hot rad/ac condenser anyways. Do a search and you can find lots of creative places that people have installed them.
If you want to use a tranny cooler with the FTRA, just relocate it off the rad/ac condenser. You really don't want it on the hot rad/ac condenser anyways. Do a search and you can find lots of creative places that people have installed them.
11-16-2006, 05:25 PM
#15
the FTRA works just as well with the WS6 and SS cars. Your ram air hood looks great, but it doesn't do anything for performance. There are lots of happy SS and WS6 owners with the FTRA installed.
11-16-2006, 06:32 PM
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this is what most people would reccomend
FILTER- paper filter -screw k&n i would rather have a clean engine the a .025 HP gain
LID- doesnt mater any popular aftermaket lid is equally good (MTI and SLP are 2 popular choices)
MAF- stock is fine.. many people descreen theres (i did but wouldnt take my chances again) if ur not running a dry shot there is no need to descreen and there is no realistic gain and a slight possibilty of problems (just use search)
BELLOWS- dont waste 50 bucks on smooth bellows from SLP either use the stocker one or if u are worried about .0001 HP use a FERNCO (again search "fernco mod")
Throttle Body- no need to spend 350 on an after market one, just port yours or purchase one already ported (many people sell them on here, they usually go for 100 bucks or so (may require yours for a core)
LS6 intake- flows better then the ls1 and can be purchased for a few hundred in the forsale section
FAST 90/90 setup- LS6 intake will be fine if u dont plan on H/C.. but if u do this is a very popular option
FILTER- paper filter -screw k&n i would rather have a clean engine the a .025 HP gain
LID- doesnt mater any popular aftermaket lid is equally good (MTI and SLP are 2 popular choices)
MAF- stock is fine.. many people descreen theres (i did but wouldnt take my chances again) if ur not running a dry shot there is no need to descreen and there is no realistic gain and a slight possibilty of problems (just use search)
BELLOWS- dont waste 50 bucks on smooth bellows from SLP either use the stocker one or if u are worried about .0001 HP use a FERNCO (again search "fernco mod")
Throttle Body- no need to spend 350 on an after market one, just port yours or purchase one already ported (many people sell them on here, they usually go for 100 bucks or so (may require yours for a core)
LS6 intake- flows better then the ls1 and can be purchased for a few hundred in the forsale section
FAST 90/90 setup- LS6 intake will be fine if u dont plan on H/C.. but if u do this is a very popular option
