Optimal engine temps
11-06-2006, 04:47 PM
#1
Optimal engine temps Is there a such of a thing as optimal operating temperature for a gasoline engine? We're starting to question a couple of portions of our motor and the coolant temps seem to come up. Can you run it too cold and what would you want the ECTs to be for best performance?
11-06-2006, 05:57 PM
#4
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
I've read that the optimal temp(not tuning related) is 210-215 because the engine oil needs to be at a specific temp to remove moisture from the crankcase. I'm fully aware of how tuning and ECT work together.
11-06-2006, 06:32 PM
#5
Last week I spent some time w/ a local Chevy based engine race car builder & asked him this same question. He told me that an LS1 that is to be hot lapped should run @ 180-185. He re-set my fan on temps & suggested that I get a 160 T-stat. He further mentioned that Chevy sets 'em up to run hotter for reduced emissions.
Prior to that conversation my car would run @ 180-205. 180 while moving & up to 205 while stopped.
Take it for what it's worth. I chose to accept his comments & changed the car accordingly. Others may have a different opinion.
Prior to that conversation my car would run @ 180-205. 180 while moving & up to 205 while stopped.
Take it for what it's worth. I chose to accept his comments & changed the car accordingly. Others may have a different opinion.
11-06-2006, 07:35 PM
#6
According to David Vizard, you want hot oil and cool ECT for best performance in a high compression engine. Lower head temps help to keep an engine out of detonation.
I'm not sure how closely oil temps parallel the ECT, but I would imagine it has to run warmer than the coolant by some margin. Are you asking for a street/strip vehicle, or strip only? The short duty cycle of a drag car may not get it hot enough to allow condensation to boil off anyways. But I'd be suprised if the crankcase didn't get hot enough in a street car to do this.
Oil analysis might be the best way to tell - a higher water content meaning that the oil is not geting hot enough for this to occur.
I'm not sure how closely oil temps parallel the ECT, but I would imagine it has to run warmer than the coolant by some margin. Are you asking for a street/strip vehicle, or strip only? The short duty cycle of a drag car may not get it hot enough to allow condensation to boil off anyways. But I'd be suprised if the crankcase didn't get hot enough in a street car to do this.
Oil analysis might be the best way to tell - a higher water content meaning that the oil is not geting hot enough for this to occur.
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11-06-2006, 07:54 PM
#8
My quickest and fastest passes have been with cold coolant (less than 100 degrees) and hot oil (higher than 150 degrees). I do know that in prostock and Nextel cup they get the engines to 30 to 40 degrees with a chiller before they qualify. I have also seen alot of NMCA, and NMRA racers doing the same thing such as Billy Glidden, Charlie Boose, and quite a few others. Mostly N/A racers though.
11-06-2006, 09:55 PM
#9
Originally Posted by hammertime
According to David Vizard, you want hot oil and cool ECT for best performance in a high compression engine. Lower head temps help to keep an engine out of detonation.
I'm not sure how closely oil temps parallel the ECT, but I would imagine it has to run warmer than the coolant by some margin. Are you asking for a street/strip vehicle, or strip only? The short duty cycle of a drag car may not get it hot enough to allow condensation to boil off anyways. But I'd be suprised if the crankcase didn't get hot enough in a street car to do this.
Oil analysis might be the best way to tell - a higher water content meaning that the oil is not geting hot enough for this to occur.
I'm not sure how closely oil temps parallel the ECT, but I would imagine it has to run warmer than the coolant by some margin. Are you asking for a street/strip vehicle, or strip only? The short duty cycle of a drag car may not get it hot enough to allow condensation to boil off anyways. But I'd be suprised if the crankcase didn't get hot enough in a street car to do this.
Oil analysis might be the best way to tell - a higher water content meaning that the oil is not geting hot enough for this to occur.
11-07-2006, 07:33 AM
#12
Originally Posted by Phil99vette
Someone should do a test on an LS1...
Then, to get real crazy, test in iron block 6.0L against an LS2 (all other factors of course being equal) to see if block composition makes any difference either. If the same holds true as for the Aluminimum vs. Iron head tests done by car craft, I'd guess there was little merit in the second test.
But you don't know til ya try
