Checking PToV, degreeing, geometry - am I being unrealistic?
11-07-2006, 06:43 PM
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Checking PToV, degreeing, geometry - am I being unrealistic? I've been shopping around for a place to do a cam install for me. The engine is a bone stock '02 LS1 in a C5, the cam a Comp XER 228/232 .588/.595 110+1. I'm fortunate enough to live in a place (central Florida) with quite a number of shops within a reasonable driving distance, and I've talked to several of them about this work.
Here's my dilemma: everything I've ever read says that cams should be degreed-in, that piston-to-valve clearance should be checked, that springs should be set to within .050 of coil bind, and that valvetrain geometry should be checked.
Nobody, and I mean nobody wants to do any of that stuff. Some even look at me like I am mouthing gibberish. Others blow smoke: "degree the cam? $50 extra". And this is from respected Forum shops, among others.
They all tell me that they never do any of that stuff, and that it's completely unnecessary. Looking around some of their shops, I suspect some of them don't even have the tools to do it.
So what's up here? Am I being unrealistic? Are all the cars running out of these shops really just "bolted together"? Do I need to worry about it on the cam above, or should I just relax, go with the flow, and let 'em bolt it together? And if the answer to the last question is "yes", why should I go to a speed shop to have this done, why not just take it to my usual Corvette mechanic?
Here's my dilemma: everything I've ever read says that cams should be degreed-in, that piston-to-valve clearance should be checked, that springs should be set to within .050 of coil bind, and that valvetrain geometry should be checked.
Nobody, and I mean nobody wants to do any of that stuff. Some even look at me like I am mouthing gibberish. Others blow smoke: "degree the cam? $50 extra". And this is from respected Forum shops, among others.
They all tell me that they never do any of that stuff, and that it's completely unnecessary. Looking around some of their shops, I suspect some of them don't even have the tools to do it.
So what's up here? Am I being unrealistic? Are all the cars running out of these shops really just "bolted together"? Do I need to worry about it on the cam above, or should I just relax, go with the flow, and let 'em bolt it together? And if the answer to the last question is "yes", why should I go to a speed shop to have this done, why not just take it to my usual Corvette mechanic?
11-07-2006, 08:18 PM
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No you are not! its called blue printing the engine when everything is checked and rechecked.Most builders dont take the time to do it,but your highend builders do.My money is on having it done,just because any part can be made incorrect,its the builders job to check the specks on all parts before and during assembly.
11-07-2006, 08:59 PM
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If a T-Rex fits on stock heads, your cam will fit under stock heads. PTV will not be an issue. I wouldn't worry about it so much. If you want someone who will work for a very reasonable price who works on Corvettes all day, every day, send me a PM. You can give him a call and see if you feel comfortable with him. I know many Vette owners who trust him.
11-07-2006, 11:27 PM
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It is not a matter of fitting. Dot-to-dot doesn't necessarily means that the cam would be on a 110+1. Could be 110+2 or 110+0 or 110-1
Read the cam card, it says 110+1 if INSTALLED at those specs.
So degreeing cam is the professional way todo it to ensure you're running the exact VEs you want.
This is one of the reasons why some equal cams have different output. Because they might mot be installed at the same VEs.
This is especialy crutial on cams with little advance like this one.
Read the cam card, it says 110+1 if INSTALLED at those specs.
So degreeing cam is the professional way todo it to ensure you're running the exact VEs you want.
This is one of the reasons why some equal cams have different output. Because they might mot be installed at the same VEs.
This is especialy crutial on cams with little advance like this one.
11-08-2006, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
It is not a matter of fitting. Dot-to-dot doesn't necessarily means that the cam would be on a 110+1. Could be 110+2 or 110+0 or 110-1
Read the cam card, it says 110+1 if INSTALLED at those specs.
So degreeing cam is the professional way todo it to ensure you're running the exact VEs you want.
This is one of the reasons why some equal cams have different output. Because they might mot be installed at the same VEs.
This is especialy crutial on cams with little advance like this one.
Read the cam card, it says 110+1 if INSTALLED at those specs.
So degreeing cam is the professional way todo it to ensure you're running the exact VEs you want.
This is one of the reasons why some equal cams have different output. Because they might mot be installed at the same VEs.
This is especialy crutial on cams with little advance like this one.
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11-08-2006, 04:10 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by pianoprodigy
To play devil's advocate, couldn't one just install the cam dot-to-dot and then "advance it" a touch to be sure it's at least advanced rather than retarded?