cam degreeing
#1
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cam degreeing
The other day I try'd installing a lunati 221/224 .558 .560 113 with a 109 intake centerline. The dude a lunati sayes that the intake valve opens at one and a half degrees before tdc. This sounds way off to me but I do trust what the lunati guy say's(he odviously knows somthing about cams or he wouldn't work there). but my degree wheel shows that the intake valve is at 17.5 degrees before tdc(at .050 inches of lift.) There is no way to get a timing set that will retard the cam that far. Is it posible that I can jump the timing set a tooth and get it closer. or not.
#2
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I wouldn't degree a cam without the card but that said, get the rest of the specs on the cam from lunati and check all the events first. If they are all off and you are sure that your wheel is zero'd then jump a tooth and check again.
#3
Couple of things involved here. One is finding true TDC. The other is finding the intake centerline. Next did you install the cam at 109 ICL? If so than according to Lunati at .050" lift the intake valve should be 1.5 BTDC. That part all sounds normal to me.
Now if at .050" of intake valve lift you are at 17.5 BTDC than you have a problem. Someting wrong somewhere. You might be off a tooth as that is a lot. You should have a cam card and if not get the specs from Lunati. Glad to see you are degreeing the cam. That is an important step to making sure that things are installed properly and inturn making good power. Hope you get it straightend out.
Now if at .050" of intake valve lift you are at 17.5 BTDC than you have a problem. Someting wrong somewhere. You might be off a tooth as that is a lot. You should have a cam card and if not get the specs from Lunati. Glad to see you are degreeing the cam. That is an important step to making sure that things are installed properly and inturn making good power. Hope you get it straightend out.
#4
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one more poss. way you came up with a wrong #. when finding .050, did you go clockwise past .050, then backup to the .050? that could be your problem. you have to put the tension on the tchain to simulate the eng. turning, so when you take your readings, the gear must have been turning clockwise before stopping. no backing up allowed.
#5
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thanks i'll check it out hopefully tomaro. By the way the valve lift, intake center line, and intake valve open degreese came from the teck dude at lunati.
p.s. I'm not shure how long i'll use this cam. It seems to be a little out of proportion for what i'm wanting to do.
p.s. I'm not shure how long i'll use this cam. It seems to be a little out of proportion for what i'm wanting to do.
#6
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I ended up jumping a tooth and got it to 1.5 degrees atdc. So i punched in the specs into my desktop dyno and it shows that i might lose about 4 or 5 horse power belowe 4000 rpm in one spot(about 3000rpm) but above 4000 rpm it gained about 20 all the way up threw 7000rpm). The dude at lunati say's i'll prolly suffer from a little slower throttle responce.(not what i wanted) so i gess i'll give it a shot and if I don't like it i'll just have to pull the front of the motor apart and change the timing set.(i think i can keep in the truck to do it.)