2000Hawk

iTrader: (5)

I was wondering if anybody that has done a cam swap used assembly lube on the cam, or if they just cleaned down the cam with brake cleaner and then poured oil all over it.
-Joel

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

Should not need assembly lube with a hydraulic roller. It is generally only to help flat tappet lifters wear into the lobes. I wouldn't think you would want anything other than oil on there.

2000Hawk

iTrader: (5)

Ok thanks, i'll make sure to just pour a good amount of oil on it.
-Joel

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Redline Assembly Lube is great stuff, dissolves as soon as the oil hits it and has no particulate. I use it all the time, as do some of the sponsors. Oil will work, but won't stay on the cam long.

2000Hawk

iTrader: (5)

Also another quick question: How much psi should i leave the air compressor at when i go to do my springs. I bought a compression tester fitting so that i could hold up the valves, but im not sure what pressure to have it at because i have heard not to have to much pressure. Thanks
-Joel

RUTAN TA

I use GM E.O.S. assembly lube

Billdog350

iTrader: (3)

Figure a high compression motor has in excess of 170psi and most compressors don't go that high...so I can't see 100 or more being an issue. When I did the springs on my truck I used 60-80 psi if I recall and it worked fine. You don't want less than 30-40 .

Fratsit

iTrader: (1)

I cleaned my cam with brake cleaner. I used the cleaning rod for my .454 Casull to clean inside it (mine has been gundrilled, some I have heard, are not), and then used straight 30W for lube.

I had my air compressor set at 65psi and it held the valves up with no problems.

R/

Frat

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Not to say the compressor method doesn't work, but, I had one go down on my and leak and you guessed it, the valve dropped. I used the TDC method last time and found it a little easier although I did have the advantage of having a boroscope to ensure the piston was at TDC.