mikeith

there's already a good poll about which one will be faster down the 1/4.... but what iiii want to know is what will last longer(miles) and would be more daily driveable without any real problems.

dug

iTrader: (10)

A built turbo motor should handle 500rwhp no problem. Then youll get greedy and want more.

mikeith

bumpbump

68birdls1

iTrader: (46)

well the one that will be more daily driver friendly will definatly be the one with the power adder becuase it wont be under boost and making 500 hp all the time like the n/a. better on gas is what i am guessing you are wanting

Blown2000SS

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/605159-forced-induction-500rwhp-vs-n-500rwhp.html

Ryan02SS

iTrader: (3)

A well setup Forged FI motor making 500rwhp is hardly being stressed and should last quite awhile. Having the boost option in mind you can choose a good blower cam that will idle like a puppy giving stock like driveability.

A 346ci making 500rwhp is not a DD car IMO. A 402 making 500rwhp could be a DD if the cam is chosen wisely.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

I have had both the n/a setup and now the turbo setup. I can tell you the turbo is way more of a pain and has required much more maintenance then my cammed/nitrous setup.

Turbo setups are not maintenance free. Now, if you limit the power and don't get to greedy a turbo setup can last quite a long time.

Jeremiah

iTrader: (5)

Having also owned both I would say the FI car would have mutch better drivability/reliability than the H/C car. It would also be better on fuel millage, as long as your foot is not in the gas its not making boost and the computor isnt adding fuel. My Procharged car made 570Rwhp and drove like a stocker with exeption of the stall, It was a definate sleeper. I made the 570 Rwhp with a stock cube motor, stock heads with no port work and a small blower cam through a 4L60E trans @ only 10#.

Gannet

C6 Z06 makes 505 bhp, passes emissions and fuel economy standards, and should last 150k+ miles.

The question only makes sense for a given displacement or a given budget, imo.

I think the way to look at it is this: if you're willing to live with up to about 1.2 or maybe 1.3 rwhp/ci, then the NA setup will be more reliable and last longer. At 1.1 to 1.2 rwhp/ci you can have close to stock driveability. At 1.3 and above driveability is starting to get a little more marginal. Up to 1.5 rwhp/ci is obtainable with a NA setup, but driveability and possibly long-term reliability is going to be severly compromised.

Most aftermarket FI setups start at 1.4-1.5 rwhp/ci, and go up from there. 2.0 rwhp/ci is probably getting close to the limit of what's reasonable on pump gas.

Plug those numbers into a chart with common LSx displacements and here's what comes out:
You can see what's going on. The 346 is right on the cusp. 500 rwhp is going to require 1.45 rwhp/ci. That either means a pretty radical NA 346 or a mild FI engine. But what if we up the displacement? After all, the money that goes to a blower could go to a stroker. Go up to a 383 and you're at 498 rwhp with a 1.3 rwhp/ci tune. Go to a 402 and it only takes 1.24 rwhp/ci to make 500 rwhp. Now you're talking about a mild build.

Will a 500 rwhp FI 346 be more reliable than a 500 rwhp NA 346? Entirely possible. Will a 500rwhp FI 346 be more reliable than a 500 rwhp 402? I would guess not.

All of the above is based on research and reading other guy's posts. NOT from personal experience within this century. So it might be so much bulltwaddle, take it fwiw.

Why the fixation on 500 rwhp, anyway? I think it's better to just pick the level of tune (read: reliabilty/streetability) you're willing to live with or can afford, pick the engine size you want, and the hp comes out to what it comes out to.

Just my newb 2 cents.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

I personally like the N/A option b/c if I'm gonna have 500 rwhp, I want it all the time. I don't want it only once I hit boost. Plus, all the hidden pains in a turbo system just don't do it for me.

magius231

iTrader: (8)

Stress wise, the added pressure placed on an engine by a FI setup is minimal compared to the added stress caused by the RPM necessary to run 500rwhp. Just ask the turbo Buick guys pushing 11's and 10's with.100k or even 200k miles on their motors.

bobby1

just want to say it can be done i daliy drive my trans am 6spd with 456 gears stock heads and 90/90 intake no ac/ no back seat no heater and i make 437.5 to the wheels once i add some heads should be well over 500 hp to the wheels the only thing thats going to hurt me is my dana 60 axle. my cam is the lg xx cam. i enjoy my car just have to be carefull i have just an x pipe no mufflers no cats so its loud

slick1851

Um......You dont own a 2 liter.........And a good matched turbo on a V8 will have super fast spool...

For a Daily driver 346 motor, FI or add alot of Cubes and a decent cam

bobby1

maybe once i put on some trickflow 225's and a 150 shot but for now thats good enough until i do a stroker motor

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

This will at least shed some light on the N/A part:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-internal-engine/623625-life-forged-daily-driver.html

You always have to make a compromise in this world. The only way you will get a setup that is even remotely durable is if you don't cheap out on any of the parts, from the fuel system all the way to the rotating assembly.

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

Same here. NA is the only way to go. If you want FI setup go get a ricer. These are muscle cars guys. That has always meant raw, real power. Period. I know I am going to get hammered for this but oh well.

KHShapiro

iTrader: (10)

Thats a tricky question. If both have regular oil changes and diven the same i am leaning toward the turbo engine lasting longer. With Turbos that use engine oil you need to change the oil often , if you forget then your engine life is cut in half. That is unless you are running an external oil pump and tank with a cooler.
If it is a track only engine then they are both equal in longevity.

ArrestMeRed99Z28

iTrader: (1)

I'm not trying to "hammer you" but I will point out that Top Fuel and Funny Cars used Forced Induction, and they are certainly not ricers. When I see a 55 Chevy or a '69 Camaro with a 10-71 Blower sticking out of the hood, I don't consider them ricers. If you think turbos are for ricers, take a look at the 750 horse Lingenfelter C6 cars, they don't look particularly "riced out." You could also check out Nelson Racing Engines, they build 1000 horse small block pump gas turbo engines. Utilizing the newest technologies to go fast is not only for ricers, spending 40K on rims and stereo for a $20,000 car is.
Not trying to flame, I just don't like stereo types.
AJ

PaulC

Quick question, is nitrous completely ruled out? That gives ya a little bit of the best of both worlds.

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

That was a fair comeback, I agree with the whole ricer thing, I took that a little far. I guess I am just a NA guy and have always thought of the F-body and Mustang guys NA. The turbos and SC always seemed more for the Supras, RX7's and such. More of a 4 or 6 cylinder power adder. Just the way I have always looked at it. I personally would rather see a Camaro with 700rwhp all motor than a 900rwhp FI car. And again, I apoligize for the ricer comparison, I agree that was a wrong way of putting it. But everyone is different and so are there cars and there is nothing wrong with whatever you chose to do.