jeffstar

iTrader: (6)

Who here has removed an LS1 from an F-body through the bottom?

Did you use a guide or could you write up a basic one for me?

I've found several LT1 guides which I used when I dropped mine originally but now I have an LS1 there seems to be some differences I need to account for.

Thanks guys!

Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

not really any difference. you can leave the a/c hooked up, but then you gotta remove it from the engine and strap it out of the way. I decided to just leave it on and I'll recharge teh system after Im done. seemed easier to me, but I dont have to pay to get it recharged since i can do it at work.
you can leave the a/c condensor/radiator in if you disconnect the a/c lines. another reason I decided to just discharge it and disconnect the a/c lines. you'll still have to disconnect two brake lines from the abs motor pack, pull the harness out of pass. firewall, also you gotta remove the clutch line from the slave cyl. instead of just remove the whole slave cyl. like a LT1 car. it has a built in quick release sleave. just push in the outer sleeve all the way around and gently tug the line out. it'll pop out pretty easily when you have the sleeve all the way in. dont think there is any other difference. if you decide to leave the struts bolted to the lower ball joint, dont forget to take out the 13mm bolts (one per side) that hold the brake hose/line to the cradle. it'll give your brake lines the slack they'll need to dangle outward once you raise the car off the suspension.

jeffstar

iTrader: (6)

On the 13mm bolts that hold the line on the cradle....are those on the K frame?

"you'll still have to disconnect two brake lines from the abs motor pack"

The front brake lines...Right?

Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

yeah, there short bolts that hold the brake line clip to the kframe. so right where the hose thread onto the steel line is where there at. yeah both front lines. you'll see where they go down the side of the innerfender and onto the kmember. you gotta remove the long silver heat shield that goes down the drivers side frame rail. it shields the lines from the header/mannifold.

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

I know you wanna go through the bottom, but I gotta say this once:

TAKE IT THROUGH THE TOP!

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

Ive done about 8 to 10 thru the bottom. Let me know what you need.

jeffstar

iTrader: (6)

I'm actually just doing a H/C swap and a clutch. Not really pulling the motor out.

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

If you're not pulling the motor, why'd you just ask how to remove the motor from the bottom?

BryanJohnson

iTrader: (12)

yeah there's no need to pull it if your just putting on heads cam & clucth. and i've always taken mine out the bottom, but i do have lift that helps.

98-LS1

iTrader: (4)

I take it he's going to pull the motor out to install a new clutch, heads and a cam. Alot of guys around here are doing it that way, saves times and effort.

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

Well he asked how to pull the motor out of the car, then said he's not pulling the motor out. So I'm totally lost. I agree on pulling the motor out for that swap. It's much easier to work on everything, and just a few more bolts than leaving it in the car.

But I'll add that while doing your h/c swap, pull the motor and install some ARP or Katech rod bolts so you can be comfortable in spinning the motor as high as it needs to let your setup pull to the proper shift point. Too many people do a h/c swap and keep their rev limiter lower than the proper shift point.

jeffstar

iTrader: (6)

Let me clear up some confusion for you... I asked how to pull the motor out of the bottom on an LS1. I've done it 4 times on an LT1 just looking for any significant different and preferably a write up with some steps in it I can look over.

I like doing things the right way. I have access to a lift and the motor sitting in front of me will be very easy to work on and allow me to get through the H/C swap quicker and the clutch job will be a cake walk also. The only real disadvantage to the job is the need to re-bleed the brakes but that's not that big of a deal.

However, the more I look at this project it may be a lot of extra effort to do it this way. My LT1 clutch swaps took all of 2 hours working at my own pace. Also apparently the H/C swap in the LS1 is very simple in comparrison to the LT1. If I'm not going the rod bolts, which I never planned on doing then what's the point of all this extra work? I guess if I was also doing the rod bolts or a short block it would make sense. I'll use the lift to do the clutch but maybe pulling the motor for just H/C is a little over the top.

I appreciate your input on the rod bolts. I'm glad you like pulling motors out the top I'm sure it is just about as easy but I didn't ask for that information.

Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

here's a couple pics I took tonight. I am doin the same thing, heads/cam/notch pistons. and since im doin so much work on/around the engine besides just unbolting the heads and bolting new ones on, I saw other advantages besides how long/short time I could get it done. this way, there's WAY less chance of droping a tool on the fender, or scratching the fender leaning over it, no leaning over the car to access the back two cyl.s head bolts/valvetrain, VERY easy access to the engine for doin all my cam degreeing/checking, PTV clearance checking, valvetrain inspection after assembly(rocker to retainer clearance,coil bind, etc). Ive already done the clutch last year, but it would take all of 20min.s this way. that 2 hours it would take you to replace the clutch in the car, you could have the eng/trans/kmember halfway out atleast. it took me about 30mins. to completly strip the engine after it was down, that included lowering the pan to get the oil pump bolt out, removing the p/s pump the hard way cause I forgot my tool to pull the pulley, neatly setting things aside, etc.
I also took a pic of the brake hose/pipe bolt I told you about. see where I took the bolt out, and pulled the line away from the kmember to give plenty of slack so the knuckle didnt pull on the hose.



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[IMG][/IMG]

01CaMMMaro

iTrader: (25)

can you just unbolt everything and lift the car up with 2x4s on a regular floor jack or do you need something special to lift the body of the car out that high to get the engine out of the bottom?

Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

no I wouldnt recomend doin it that way. you need a cherry picker to lift the body off the frame. it has to go pretty high in front to have enough room to roll the eng . out from under the body. w/o a hoist, you'll need to have the rear axle up in the air too. Ive seen people put the back tires on old rims to get the back about 10" higher, then lift the front. I myself have used heavy duty jack stands under the rear axle and a cherry picker back before I had a hoist. you def. do not want a stack of 2x4s tumbeling over and the body to come crashing down.

silversweetZ

iTrader: (11)

I can't see, can you get bigger pictures? J/k, unless you have access to a lift sounds like the only way you could get it out would be thru the top.

z28burner

does anybody have any links to step by step intructions on how to drop the motor? I need to replace mine due to flooding the cylinders with water after driving through about 12" of water, sucked it right up the air tunnel, as well has anyone used or know of a good provider of crate motors? insurance will pay, but they have a thing called "betterment" if i am willing to take a salvage motor (and i am not) they will pay all, since i will be doing it myself to save i want to get somthing nice.

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

Dammit, ive got a video from Spike TV where they do it, not entirely step by step but fun to watch. If it wasn't 50MB i'd post it.
In the video, they refrence this book where I guess the author takes a whole chapter to describe dropping the motor.
I guess you can get this book at any napa/autozone for 10$ or so.

2000LS1TA

iTrader: (26)

You can definatley take the motor and trans out by lifting the car with jack stands and 2x4's. I know this for a fact because I just did this to a 2001 SS Camaro the other night

z28burner

thanks guy's, BTW, what is the diff between the LS1 and the LS6?