Sxyman815

iTrader: (4)

I made a promise to my self that 2 years to the day that I bought my 02 WS6 M6 I would be doing a wheelie at the track... I have no Idea where to start. I have a lid, Underdrive pulley, rebuilt the T56 my self, Dual Friction Centerforce oh and I lowered it... almost to low might have to go with the pro kit from eibach instead of the sports line and thats about where it ends. I run a high 12 in the quarter with stock tires spinning through second. I also want to keep it "streetable". If anyone that has accomplished this could fill me in on there mods in detail because this car is as stock as can be! Tires.... sfcs...Cam...Heads...anything at all! Details brands everything! I'm also looking at some QTP LT's and their y pipe with dual electric cut outs! Let me know please!

Thanks in Advance!

Andy

bad2000z

iTrader: (4)

Big cam, 12 bolt with 4.10's, slick's,lt's,cutout,sfc's, tuning,skinnies,weight reduction,a really good clutch, dump the clutch at 5000rpm's YER THERE!

Wnts2Go10O

iTrader: (12)

id go with more than 4.10s. something like 4.56 or even higher numerically.

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

If on the stock cam then yeah i'd go 4.56s and a 28" tire. For the simple fact that you're a manual car, skip the 12 bolt and go straight for the 9". You need to have this moved to Drag Racing tech section. You'll need suspension mainly with adjustable front/rear shocks, tq arm, M/T et streets and rearend at minimum.

Nate

Blue02Ws6

iTrader: (3)

It is easy, more power or a lot less weight.

You do not want 4.56's if this is your daily driver, I had 4.30's and on the highway they even sucked. I maxed out at 118mph@6700rpm through the 1/4 with the 4.30's, that's the highest I would go.

Asmodeus

You might want to go right past the 12 bolt and look into a 9 inch for an M6 to wheelstand.

VORTECFCAR

iTrader: (2)

you might want a set of jackstands and some practice with photoshop

Mikey 97Z M6

iTrader: (37)

As mentioned, suspension is everything, and you'll need all the traction you can get to yank'em.

I'd also suggest a TH400 with a transbrake and high stall converter. If you don't convert to a stout auto, you'll find yourself knee-deep in debt from replacing broken driveline parts between the back of the block and the 9" rearend. The T56 is pretty strong, but it does have limits. I'm not saying it can't be done, but be prepared to shell out some $$ if you stay with a 6sp.

Some lighter front end pieces will def. help: tubular K-member, tubular suspension arms, relocate battery to trunk area, remove front bumper bracing/support, delete ABS unit, remove A/C and related parts. Just depends how badly you want it and what you're willing to sacrifice.

It's not an easy task to pull the fronts, or else everyone would be doing it.

Mike

TOS98SS

iTrader: (2)

Like this just put weight reduction first or closer to . If you take weight off the ft of the car you could pull the wheels with less power do the battery relocation ,Light k-frame ,lower arms ,remove sound deading matereial from under the car . And a must get the car back to at least stock height Then work on the suspension torque arm, lower control arms and a rear will be a must .

The above items I would say is the least you would need to get a 350-400RWHP car to lift the wheels its not going to be cheap but should work .

68LS1WANNABE

I know it looks good but it's not fast. Tire's high = slower times. You don't see any prostock guys wheels up. Just barely hanging is the way to go imo.

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

Thats because pro-stock isn't limited to a tq arm style suspension. In a torque arm car, you need a good amount of air under the wheels to make the suspension truly effective.

Nate