LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

im starting to see this is going to be a neverending cycle of buying more and better performance parts. oh well it will be worth it. now i have to get a flywheel. guy says i need an internally balanced 153 tooth flywheel, big nasty enough for at least 600fwhp. i may end up spraying nitrous because my compression allows for it. any recommendations?

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

nobody knows about flywheels?

streetwarrior96

fidanza or the spec

Fire67

iTrader: (3)

Spec billet steel is very nice and SFI certified. Ive heard of people saying that Fidanza's are nice as well, just havent seen one yet

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

most of the fidanza's ive seen have been aluminum. should i get steel or aluminum?

streetwarrior96

I have the spec billet steel, love it

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

cool, thats the one ill get.

Fire67

iTrader: (3)

Spec make steel or aluminum. According to the tech there when I asked the same question...
Aluminum is great for roll races or road course cars, however if over 400rwhp the aluminum would be fine in drag race situations as well.
The steel 'wheels are more meant for drag racing and street driving heavier cars (f-bods are pigs btw). Because the heavier flywheel keeps more stored energy to get the car moving from a dead stop.

So even though I ended up making 450rwhp through the M6 setup, I chose the steel flywheel and loved it.

What are your goals for the car?

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

my goals for the car are 11.XX n/a. daily driver. i may spray a little bit on down the line. my drive to work isn't that far so were not talking loads of miles driven every day. and i want to be able to take it to the track a couple times a year, max. but i want to be able to come off the line quick, street or track.

1997bird

iTrader: (2)

Is your motor going to be internally balanced on both the front and back of your motor? Stock, the one peice rear main seal engine's are internal on the front but external on the back. I would make sure before you order your flywheel. I have a $400 balance job on my LT1 to have it neutral balanced front and rear. Mallory metal is about $100 a inch.

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

This engine is internal balanced on both ends of the crank.

Fire67

iTrader: (3)

You want to leave hard get steel, bottom line. The 'stored energy' of the heavier flywheel will help with that alot.

You want the car to be more responsive from a roll get aluminum, but your dead stop launch will suffer

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

roll races are for rice rockets, most of the real cars i come across want to race from a dead stop. not to mention the track is from a dead stop. i dont need to be doing much racing starting at 60mph anyway, i'd like to keep my drivers license. so im thinking the steel is the way to go. im still entertaining other peoples input.

streetwarrior96

if your motor is internally balanced make sure you take the weight of the flywheel... you will get a nasty vibration if ya leaveit on.

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

you mean take the weight "off" the flywheel? what exactly do you mean and how do i do that?

streetwarrior96

yeah the weight "off" (sorry). being held on by 2 little screws. Best to remove it b4 you install the flywheel. If your motor is internally balanced that weight on the fly wheel will thow the balancing off

Fire67

iTrader: (3)

And trash bearings. Like he said, just two screws to remove it before you bolt it to the crank.
LT1man-Yup steel is a wise choice for your setup. Tickets are definitely no good either. I always race on the track, never the street. I just wanted to point out the positive/negative of both options.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Not to mention aluminum is going to be weaker than steel when subjected to a 5000-6000 rpm clutch dump.

Boodyrider

iTrader: (2)

That might be true if the facing was aluminum, but it's not. The part where the clutch contacts is an insert. Google Fidanza, look at them.

streetwarrior96

steel has always been stronger than aluminum. Not saying it is not good I just think the steal can take more of a beating