Procharger with a Accufab throttle body, No hole in blade
11-23-2006, 10:20 AM
#1
Procharger with a Accufab throttle body, No hole in blade I have a 01 SS M-6 camaro,
With a stock motor , FLP headers , Y -Pipe and 3" SLP SS duel duel exhaust on the car.
I just installed a D1-sc Twin intercooled Procharger system this past summer.
My tunner , tuned the car perfect with a safe A/F and running Methanol.
cars pulls hard to stock red line 6,200
Car idles good , but to come off the clutch at a stop light it has a hesitaton, dead spot, and if you know what i mean i have to wake it up, give it gas to get it out rolling so it dont drop RPM and stutter -stall.
The RPM will Drop and it sometimes stalls, Its been hard to drive because of this,
otherwise when crusing its fine.
My tunner is Great, and knowes what hes doing, but i just told him that i have a Accufab stock size Throttle body on the car,
I noticed when i got the Accufab 75mm T-body that there is no hole in the throttle blade.
And that my IAC value is 11-15 at idle now, where with the stock throttle body it was zero i think.
Do i need to drill a hole, ?
Why is there not a hole in the blade, like a stock throttle body has?
We did not spend that much time to figure it out , But we are going to figure this out after the holiday , monday
Help
thank you
With a stock motor , FLP headers , Y -Pipe and 3" SLP SS duel duel exhaust on the car.
I just installed a D1-sc Twin intercooled Procharger system this past summer.
My tunner , tuned the car perfect with a safe A/F and running Methanol.
cars pulls hard to stock red line 6,200
Car idles good , but to come off the clutch at a stop light it has a hesitaton, dead spot, and if you know what i mean i have to wake it up, give it gas to get it out rolling so it dont drop RPM and stutter -stall.
The RPM will Drop and it sometimes stalls, Its been hard to drive because of this,
otherwise when crusing its fine.
My tunner is Great, and knowes what hes doing, but i just told him that i have a Accufab stock size Throttle body on the car,
I noticed when i got the Accufab 75mm T-body that there is no hole in the throttle blade.
And that my IAC value is 11-15 at idle now, where with the stock throttle body it was zero i think.
Do i need to drill a hole, ?
Why is there not a hole in the blade, like a stock throttle body has?
We did not spend that much time to figure it out , But we are going to figure this out after the holiday , monday
Help
thank you
11-23-2006, 04:58 PM
#4
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im in ther same boat.how is your cold start up? mines a little rought for 30-60 seconds, then it finds its fast idle. i have the same problem as you with the clutch though. its almost impossible to slip the clutch to get it moving with no gas. i have my stock throttle body but my maf is descreened. i was going to try a new stock maf to see what happens. keep us updated!
11-23-2006, 05:30 PM
#5
HI ZDog
are you also running a accufab throttle body?
What car?
Are you procharged,
I dont think its the MAF sensor.
Mine takes a few minutes to warm up , has a 1200-1500 high idle until warmed up, then drops down to around 1,000rpm.
Its like you said , if i slip the clutch to get her moving with out the RPM falling to 400 and then stalling
are you also running a accufab throttle body?
What car?
Are you procharged,
I dont think its the MAF sensor.
Mine takes a few minutes to warm up , has a 1200-1500 high idle until warmed up, then drops down to around 1,000rpm.
Its like you said , if i slip the clutch to get her moving with out the RPM falling to 400 and then stalling
11-23-2006, 10:03 PM
#6
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no, i dont have an accufab. i got the stocker. i have a d1sc 8 rib at 8psi. after my first tune my o2's were lazy so i swapped them out. my tuner then noticed i was rich at idle so he leaned that out some. it helped a little but its still there. have you tried having the ac or defroster on when trying to creep off from a start? it looks like i have never driven stick before!!! your variable is your throttle body mine is my maf. if i swap out the maf and its no different then its the tune. your kinda in the same boat. get your hands on a stock tb and see how it acts. im about to get a labtop and some tuning software just to start playing around but im apsolutly clueless on it. besides, that takes away from my forged motor funds! good luck. im subscribing to this one!
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11-24-2006, 09:46 AM
#12
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i very easily can be wrong, but if he cheats his blade open and resets his tps. isnt that just cheating his idle up? i mean hes idling at 850 now and he does this wouldnt he be at 900- to 950 idle? wouldnt the computer just through more fuel in to compensate for the increase of air?
05-27-2008, 08:27 AM
#13
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Have the same issue I have a d1 with twin hiflows and an ecs bower cam. It has slight hesitation too about 60 percent of the time. It had a stalling issue when i revved it and let off the gas. That was fixed after I raised the manual throttle adjustment. I t still idles the same ,just doesnt stall after gasing it. Mine had a lazy 02 that was also causing the AF to go crazy. I feel the problem I have now is caused by a stock tb ported by Lingenfelter .Trying to get my hands on an unported one.
06-07-2008, 08:03 AM
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got my hands on a stock unported tb and it made a big difference in drivability. throttle response is crisp at low end and there is no loss of power wop. my tuner was right when he said aftermarket and ported tbs cause problems with fi.
06-07-2008, 10:18 AM
#16
I have an Accufab and the opposite problem. My IAC counts were very high around 140 or so. But I am runnin a 427 with a good sized cam and boost so whole different deal. I was having some idle probs mostly due to not enuff air gettin to the motor. I had to drill to get my IAC counts to 90. If your IAC counts are only 15 you are still gettin too much air @ idle or have a vac. leak somewhere. So NO you do not need to drill a hole.
