Locking header bolts
11-24-2006, 06:13 PM
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Locking header bolts I am having a problem when it comes to gaskets for my headers. I have been using stage 6 locking header bolts, but they have really been nothing but just a pain in the ***. It is not like we have a ton of room to begin with. I bought them to keep the bolts from backing off of the head and causing a leak, but it does not seem that they are working.
It is really difficult with short tubes to get back in and retighten , is there any other trick to getting the gaskets to seal well? Is it a better idea to start the motor and let it warm up?(I have heard to do this since the heads are aluminium) It would be hard to get in there without burning your arms.
It had to be the passenger side of course.
The stage six bolts use c-clips which are not fun to get off.
Going with kooks long tubes soon, are these better for changing gaskets?
It is really difficult with short tubes to get back in and retighten , is there any other trick to getting the gaskets to seal well? Is it a better idea to start the motor and let it warm up?(I have heard to do this since the heads are aluminium) It would be hard to get in there without burning your arms.
It had to be the passenger side of course.
The stage six bolts use c-clips which are not fun to get off.
Going with kooks long tubes soon, are these better for changing gaskets?
11-24-2006, 06:30 PM
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it is easier to change gaskets when you have headers on your car, did you mean stage 8 locking bolts? either way same ****, those c-clips are a pain in the *** to put on or take off, what i found that worked for me was getting longer header bolts such as 7/16"x1", i never had a problem with those backing out on me and before those i had tried the standard size arp bolts and also thestage 8 locking bolts which cost like ******* $50 if i remember right
11-24-2006, 06:42 PM
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yeah stage 8 i think, what garbage. I think i might just go with the longer bolts where can you get them?
hey revelation, When do you use the blue locktight? I thought the blue was the weaker of the two. I have just been afraid to use that because of how hard it is to get your wrench in there.
hey revelation, When do you use the blue locktight? I thought the blue was the weaker of the two. I have just been afraid to use that because of how hard it is to get your wrench in there.
11-24-2006, 07:02 PM
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you use blue when you plan on taking the nut/bolt out sooner or later so you can break it loose easier.
the red is for keeping the nut/bolt there for good. it wont back out or anything. and if you do plan on taking it off, you will need a breaker bar/cheater bar or impact. plus the red smells gooood
for example, i used red loctite on my TA cover to keep the preload bolts there so the carrier doesnt push on them and back them out.
the red is for keeping the nut/bolt there for good. it wont back out or anything. and if you do plan on taking it off, you will need a breaker bar/cheater bar or impact. plus the red smells gooood
for example, i used red loctite on my TA cover to keep the preload bolts there so the carrier doesnt push on them and back them out.
Originally Posted by 97LT1
yeah stage 8 i think, what garbage. I think i might just go with the longer bolts where can you get them?
hey revelation, When do you use the blue locktight? I thought the blue was the weaker of the two. I have just been afraid to use that because of how hard it is to get your wrench in there.
hey revelation, When do you use the blue locktight? I thought the blue was the weaker of the two. I have just been afraid to use that because of how hard it is to get your wrench in there.
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11-25-2006, 05:59 PM
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use the copper permatex on the gaskets to seal them for good. I had it on my paper thin POS pacesetter gaskets and they NEVER leaked and I was using ARP header bolts. I also played fun getting them off once I sold them LOL.
11-26-2006, 06:32 PM
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Ok so I determine my Stage 8 locking header bolts are 7/16x 1". I reuse them without the c clips and locking mechanism's because they are just pain in the a$$. I get them all in , but loosen the last one closest to the firewall to apply the locktight. ( I did this last because the gasket drops in and sits on the outer header bolts) Now I cannot get the bolt all the way out, because it is hitting the header pipe. I cannot get the bolt back in because I cannot get it to thread. This seems mainly due to position because of the header pipe.
It is almost like i am going to have to cut the bolt, and try a 3/4 inch x 7/16ths now.
I really want to avoid having to take all of the now locktighted (blue) bolts back out.
Any tips, this is driving me looney. I went in to fix the leaking gasket, and now im dealing with what seems a dead end.
I have to have this car running tommorow afternoon!
Please help guys. OBTW these are SLP shorties.
It is almost like i am going to have to cut the bolt, and try a 3/4 inch x 7/16ths now.
I really want to avoid having to take all of the now locktighted (blue) bolts back out.
Any tips, this is driving me looney. I went in to fix the leaking gasket, and now im dealing with what seems a dead end.
I have to have this car running tommorow afternoon!
Please help guys. OBTW these are SLP shorties.
11-26-2006, 07:25 PM
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I use Felpro LT1 header gaskets and the stage 8 locking head bolts with no problems at all. I run the hooker super comp LT's, when I had my pacesetters I always had problems with bolts backing out and I used copper gaskets. Now I have not complaints at all.
11-26-2006, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BarneyMobile
I use Felpro LT1 header gaskets and the stage 8 locking head bolts with no problems at all. I run the hooker super comp LT's, when I had my pacesetters I always had problems with bolts backing out and I used copper gaskets. Now I have not complaints at all.
I know what your saying, but there is more difficult access because of the short tubes.
11-26-2006, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by CptMidway
11-26-2006, 08:05 PM
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both have alum heads so... yeah, should work just as well I guess... Anyone else use these? They are pricey, would love to hear at least one or two more good mentions before I spend that kinda money.
11-26-2006, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by CptMidway
They work. We used them on a couple of cars @ Overkill Motorsports, no leaks, and ALOT easier than using Stage 8's. (IMO) Granted we used them on LS1's but I don't see how they could be any different for our LT1 cars.
11-27-2006, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 97LT1
Ok so I determine my Stage 8 locking header bolts are 7/16x 1". I reuse them without the c clips and locking mechanism's because they are just pain in the a$$. I get them all in , but loosen the last one closest to the firewall to apply the locktight. ( I did this last because the gasket drops in and sits on the outer header bolts) Now I cannot get the bolt all the way out, because it is hitting the header pipe. I cannot get the bolt back in because I cannot get it to thread. This seems mainly due to position because of the header pipe.
It is almost like i am going to have to cut the bolt, and try a 3/4 inch x 7/16ths now.
I really want to avoid having to take all of the now locktighted (blue) bolts back out.
Any tips, this is driving me looney. I went in to fix the leaking gasket, and now im dealing with what seems a dead end.
I have to have this car running tommorow afternoon!
Please help guys. OBTW these are SLP shorties.
It is almost like i am going to have to cut the bolt, and try a 3/4 inch x 7/16ths now.
I really want to avoid having to take all of the now locktighted (blue) bolts back out.
Any tips, this is driving me looney. I went in to fix the leaking gasket, and now im dealing with what seems a dead end.
I have to have this car running tommorow afternoon!
Please help guys. OBTW these are SLP shorties.