bmccrary

Well, it has become apparent that it is not my valve covers that are leaking. I stumbled across a page that was talking about fixing this notorious leak and I decided to see if this why the block is covered in oil.




After going out to the car and giving it the ol' reach around, I realized that is my problem. I have found a few websites that talk about replacing the gasket and wrapping the flex pipe in heat tape and they all seem to be pretty informative. Does anyone know of any sites that offers some step by step instructions?

Pictures of Inake Removal

Oil Leak Fix

Also, I would like to avoid the shops bills on pulling the intake. My father has experience with the old school Pontiac motors and we have lots of tools, except air. Is this something that we could do in a weekend relatively easy? I would love to do the work myself to save the money and to also learn more about the car.

Is there anything else that should be done to the car while the intake is off? I think I have a lifter starting to collapse, but not exactly sure. I was planning on replacing the valve cover gaskets, too.

Thanks for the advice.

-Bryan

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Just pull it off and clean everything up really good, and then seal it good. That EGR pipe is one of the main causes, wrapping it up will help keep the heat off of that rear seal.
When you take this off, you don't even have to drain the coolant, makes it real easy, just bolts.

bmccrary

Oh ok. Thanks. Might get into that over the Christmas break. Any one recomend a certain gasket? I am wanting to replace the valve cover gaskets with Fel-Pros (spelling). Do they offer an intake gasket as well?

Thanks.

-Bryan

bmccrary

So I looked on Jegs for the intake gaskets. I started to get a bit confused on all the options available. Heat cross over, and different sized openings. My heads are stock, and are not ported and I figured that was what the numbers were for. After scrolling to the bottom I saw where they offered OEM replacements for 20 bucks. I guess those will work just fine?

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Go to Auto Zone, look up the Intake Gaskets for this and get the Felpros. That's what I use. Also get some 02 sensor safe RTB Silicone, and use that to seal everything up there.

bmccrary

Thanks for the help Merv. Hopefully I can get this done over break.

-bryan

buffman

iTrader: (9)

Here's some better suggestions. USE Permatex Ultra Copper, or their stuff called "THE RIGHT STUFF". Once torqued, let the car sit for 24hrs to insure proper cure, or you'll be doing the job over. Superior Gaskets? Fel-Pro Printo Seals. PN# 1284. BTW dont wrap the EGR tube in heat tape, that can just make matter worse... Blue Loctite on intake bolts insure they stay where they're supposed to be once torqued.

bmccrary

Ok, thanks for the help. Should I think about doing a breather in place of the oil filler? Would this help take some pressure off that gasket for later?

-bryan

buffman

iTrader: (9)

As long as you can remember to check your PCV valve, then I wouldnt worry about it. Some cars can be picky, but adding a breather on the valve cover can allow unmetered air into the engine and can cause idling and BLM issues..

also get rid of the fram filter. Get a Purolater or a standard AC DELCO..

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I haven't had a problem with that..

bmccrary

Its not fram any more, but may I ask why I shouldn't have it?

I just spoke with a buddy online about the breather set up. I don't that I will do that. If I pull the intake, I will look it over and see if there is any oil in it. If so, I will add a seperator. I don't think I have ever changed that PCV valve.

-bryan

Ls1Bait

Fram filters are not the greatest. There is a write up on them and they acctually are one of the worst for flow and filtering. I run a ac-delco or a wix oil filter. Also with a aftermarket oil pump it can make the filter crack/explode with a cheap filter.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

There's been some discussion on the oil separator and I don't think it's very beneficial from what I remember. I added a breather in place of the vacuum hose running from the back of the valve cover to the TB. I blocked the port on the TB and I haven't had any problems. I think Merv has done it too.

bmccrary

Gotcha. Well the car is basicly stock, so I dont think I have to worry too much about cracking or what not. But thanks for the heads up on that. We have ran Fram filters for a few years now with out a problem. Can you post up a link to that write up for me. Thanks

-bryan

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Yea, that is what I have done. No problems with it at all.

buffman

iTrader: (9)

Yes many people dont have problems, but other people do have problems. Just remember it's unmetered air. Most of the time 02s can compensate, sometimes they're picky..


as for the PCV valve never being changed, could be good reason why oil leak developed. Non working PCV = increased crankcase pressure

filter comparisons

http://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/index.html

http://www.oilfilterstudy.com/

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Un-metered air going where? Nothing is going into the Combustion Chamber as long as you block the one spot off on the TB. If anything, it's just air instead of air and oil steam. I have never had a problem with it. I just put the motor back together, and there is a little oil residue in the back of the Intake. I have no EGR, and sealed it pretty good. My oil pump is wicked strong, so that might be the cause, unless something with the pressure sending unit..

buffman

iTrader: (9)

assuming you block off port on TB, and use breather in valve cover, you're allowing air to enter engine via the breaher.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

True, but that doesn't get into the Exhaust anywhere. As long as you block the TB off, you are good. That goes with any kind of custom work, make sure everything it blocked or sealed if it originally was.

buffman

iTrader: (9)

but it IS still unmetered air. Air WILL enter through the breather and be sucked into the intake track via the PCV valve(at idle) on tight engines that do not have excessive blow by.

An open system like that can throw the BLM's out quite a bit.

An experiement for you to try. Hook a scan tool up to a car that has everything installed properly in the PCV system. Monitor the BLM's. Then remove the oil cap. You will see the BLM's go HIGHER as it compensates for the lean mixture.