First mods, What can I expect?
#1
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First mods, What can I expect?
Hello,
Ive owned my 2001 WS6 for about 3 months and now the time has come to start with the mods.
After reading and lots of searching ive decided and ordered the following;
Fast 90 Intake and 90mm TB
SLP Lid
Fast fuel rail
9" Rear with 3.23, true trac and upgraded driveshaft
Katech Solid Adjustable Belt Tensioner (as mine is squeaking)
Thinking about getting Subframe Connectors as well as bigger injectors and heads/cam.
Can anyone recommend a heads/cam package that would suit what I have?
How about injectors?
Any idea what HP I can expect from all this? I will dyno run the car before the work begins and probably during and after to get an idea of how things are going.
I have Efilive software for tuning so that should be of some advantage.
Thanks
Ive owned my 2001 WS6 for about 3 months and now the time has come to start with the mods.
After reading and lots of searching ive decided and ordered the following;
Fast 90 Intake and 90mm TB
SLP Lid
Fast fuel rail
9" Rear with 3.23, true trac and upgraded driveshaft
Katech Solid Adjustable Belt Tensioner (as mine is squeaking)
Thinking about getting Subframe Connectors as well as bigger injectors and heads/cam.
Can anyone recommend a heads/cam package that would suit what I have?
How about injectors?
Any idea what HP I can expect from all this? I will dyno run the car before the work begins and probably during and after to get an idea of how things are going.
I have Efilive software for tuning so that should be of some advantage.
Thanks
#2
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you should research a bit more cause the fast intake should only be used on f.i. cars or larger stroker motors and high revving motors. Also, i'm guessing your an auto because you list 3.23 gears, you would also need a higher stall.
#5
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Originally Posted by kyles2000z
forget the FAST 90/90
-catback
-airlid (with Free Ram Air)
-long tubes
-stall (suited for future cam)
-gear and 9 inch(i say 3.73)
-heads/cam
-catback
-airlid (with Free Ram Air)
-long tubes
-stall (suited for future cam)
-gear and 9 inch(i say 3.73)
-heads/cam
i agree 100% with this statement.
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Originally Posted by kyles2000z
forget the FAST 90/90
-catback
-airlid (with Free Ram Air)
-long tubes
-stall (suited for future cam)
-gear and 9 inch(i say 3.73)
-heads/cam
-catback
-airlid (with Free Ram Air)
-long tubes
-stall (suited for future cam)
-gear and 9 inch(i say 3.73)
-heads/cam
As for 3.73's wouldnt that make my cruise rpm slightly higher? I am doing quite a lot of highway driving thats why im thinking of keeping the 3.23's, how much of a difference would it make? (thinking of economy as im not in the cheapest country for gas lol)
Definatly going to get a stall.
Thanks for the input
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Originally Posted by kyles2000z
well i think 3.23s wil be just fine, the 3.73s with a big stall wouldnt be the best recipe for a good mpg. just stick with the 3.23s if you wantin to be more economical.
dont forget the sticky tires so that power will make it to the ground.
dont forget the sticky tires so that power will make it to the ground.
Originally Posted by 00formLs1
he's in england. it might be hard to find someone who can install and tune a heads and cam combo
Wouldnt the fast 90/90 be better over the ls6 and stock tb (ported) due to the larger amount of air that can flow? which would help when heads and cam are installed?
#15
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If your worried about gas mileage then don’t get ported heads. Cam only you'll still do ok but the minute you hog out the heads your gas mileage drops off the planet. Even if you try and drive conservatively you’ll never get as good a mileage. Every time you step on that throttle and hear that rumble your sucking more air and fuel than before. You can try and drive around at ¼ throttle but it ain’t happening.
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Originally Posted by Rosco
Have a new set of wheels on the way (torque thrust 2's) with 315x35x17's in the rear, might help a little
A friend of mine who lives close by has a dyno etc and should be able to help with the install, plus I get free dyno runs and help in exchange for beer
Wouldnt the fast 90/90 be better over the ls6 and stock tb (ported) due to the larger amount of air that can flow? which would help when heads and cam are installed?
A friend of mine who lives close by has a dyno etc and should be able to help with the install, plus I get free dyno runs and help in exchange for beer
Wouldnt the fast 90/90 be better over the ls6 and stock tb (ported) due to the larger amount of air that can flow? which would help when heads and cam are installed?
NM, go bolt on of those sucker in. that way you can show some of the exotics up. fast 90 would be better with a heads and cam set but the ls6 isn't a piece of crap either.
#17
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The 90/90 is more for bigger cubic inch displacement than stock. The need for more air. But also for higher reving, which has a need for more air.
Take my car for example. I could use one and might get 10-20hp out of it if I had Tony Mamo port it but it would all come on the top end. My redline is around 7200 rpms. Theoreticaly I can rev to 8500 rpms.(forged, arps everywhere, gm hi perf lifters, hardland Sharped rockers) I would see the biggest gain from the 90/90 pro'lly in the 6000-7200 range. But your talking $1600 for 10-20hp. Not worth it to me at this point or you for that matter. Better money to be spent with bigger gains for you right now elsewhere IMO.
Take my car for example. I could use one and might get 10-20hp out of it if I had Tony Mamo port it but it would all come on the top end. My redline is around 7200 rpms. Theoreticaly I can rev to 8500 rpms.(forged, arps everywhere, gm hi perf lifters, hardland Sharped rockers) I would see the biggest gain from the 90/90 pro'lly in the 6000-7200 range. But your talking $1600 for 10-20hp. Not worth it to me at this point or you for that matter. Better money to be spent with bigger gains for you right now elsewhere IMO.
Last edited by 99blancoSS; 12-08-2006 at 12:08 PM.
#19
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I don't know why everyone is dissing the 90/90. Saying it's only for 500+rwhp is bs. It's a proven gain over the ls6 and ported tb, almost 98% of the time. Granted it's not the cheapest especially if you have a ls6 intake to begin with, but it's a proven upgrade.
If you just want to go heads / cam / boltons here's what I'd recomend. Granted this isn't going to be the cheapest, but it will give you a lot of power and reliability.
-Lid
-Fast 90/ NW 90
-Pulley
-Longtubes - you already have
-True duals, especially if you have a friend with a shop that does work for beer
-Stall, shift kit
-9 inch 3.23 / maybe 3.42 gears, tru trac or locker
-Driveshaft, stock one is weak and you'll need one with a proper yoke for the 9 inch
-Suspension mods, lcas, lca relocation brackets, torque arm (I don't think stock works on 9 inch), TA relocation bracket, rsb, aphr, sfc, dssl
-Heads, something nice like TSP Terminators, TEA Trickflows, or AFR 205s with adequate springs
-Cam, custom matched to the flow of the heads and what you want out of it
-hardened pushrods, ls6 oil pump, ls2 timing chain, gmpp revised lifters (depending on mileage), gaskets, fasteners
-Racetronix plug and play fuel pump kit
-Injectors, 42# are cheap
-TUNING is huge
Also at this point depending on how much power you are making your transmission might start hating you and decide to go boom. Take that into consideration also.
I might have missed something small, but that gives you a general idea of what you'll need.
If you just want to go heads / cam / boltons here's what I'd recomend. Granted this isn't going to be the cheapest, but it will give you a lot of power and reliability.
-Lid
-Fast 90/ NW 90
-Pulley
-Longtubes - you already have
-True duals, especially if you have a friend with a shop that does work for beer
-Stall, shift kit
-9 inch 3.23 / maybe 3.42 gears, tru trac or locker
-Driveshaft, stock one is weak and you'll need one with a proper yoke for the 9 inch
-Suspension mods, lcas, lca relocation brackets, torque arm (I don't think stock works on 9 inch), TA relocation bracket, rsb, aphr, sfc, dssl
-Heads, something nice like TSP Terminators, TEA Trickflows, or AFR 205s with adequate springs
-Cam, custom matched to the flow of the heads and what you want out of it
-hardened pushrods, ls6 oil pump, ls2 timing chain, gmpp revised lifters (depending on mileage), gaskets, fasteners
-Racetronix plug and play fuel pump kit
-Injectors, 42# are cheap
-TUNING is huge
Also at this point depending on how much power you are making your transmission might start hating you and decide to go boom. Take that into consideration also.
I might have missed something small, but that gives you a general idea of what you'll need.