LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

well, as some of you know i have this 383 just sitting here. ive been waiting and waiting and waiting on my clutch to show up and now i think the guy just dicked me on the clutch cause i cant get ahold of him. (trust me i filed a complaint with BBB) but now i have to buy a damn clutch, even tho it was included in the price of my engine. i will be making around 500hp at the flywheel, not sure the torque. ive been looking at a maddog and the spec stage 3. i know there are some nasty $1000 clutches out there but i dont think i need all that. (i searched LS1tech and all i found was LS1 results).

the car is a street strip daily driver, m6, and i have a spec billet steel flywheel.

what clutch are you high powered LT1's using?

im interested in longevity, grip, and chatter. i would like to get one that im not going to have to listen to all the time, but then again i might not be able to hear anything over my engine. i dont have any experience with heavy duty clutches and the kinds of noises they make. so please feel free to comment on the chatter and how you feel about it.

thanks
aaron

-PEPE-

iTrader: (10)

McLeod TwinDisc w/McLeod billet steel FW, never slips, chatters, yada yada yada, great piece of work, not cheap, but worth it.

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

no chatter huh, thats what im talkin about. it doesn't look like you drive your car on the street. im curious as to how the mcleod performs in stop and go situations.

a guy at my job says he has some crazy clutch out of australia and when hes takes his car off the trailer and is driving to the start of the course (autocross) there is no slippage or no riding of the clutch what soever, its either engaged or disengaged. gears change real hard. do mcleods and spec 3's act this way?

-PEPE-

iTrader: (10)

My car is driven on the street all the time, even drive it the track, just no 2 hour non-stop trips...long story..anywho I drive it to work, here and there and drives like a champ, never had one single issue with the clutch. This lil sumbeech loves to hook up when you release the pedal, there is no bullshit just got my drivers license feather the clutch nonsense, when you release it's ***** to the wall and has great drivability.

not sure about the land down under and clutches but ya never know man.

WYD-01

iTrader: (2)

a friend of mine just sold his lt1 and bought a ls1 .


he has a nib spec stage 3 clutch kit w/ billet steel flywheel.

he paid $750 will sacrifice for $500. PM me for his number or more info

flame

iTrader: (13)

Running the RAM powergrip currently and it drives like stock but holds up well at the track to 5500rpm launches on BFG drag radials.

DroppedM6Z

iTrader: (5)

If your going to be driving alot and want to also hit the track the Twin is the BEST out there. I'm not makeing that much power N/A and i dont spray often so i went with the RAM PowerGrip HD. It's a NICE piece for under 600. I had a powergrip befor this clutch but i plan on letting this one fly @ about 6500 in march when the track opens

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

how much hp/tq are you putting down?

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

BRETTINATOR, where can i get a mcleod for lt1, on there website all i saw were ls1 clutches

flame

iTrader: (13)

411 rwhp 374 rwtq

-PEPE-

iTrader: (10)

Talk to Gene @McLeod (714)630-2764, he'll tell you what you need and send you to Sales, he's a great guy to work with and knows his stuff.

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

anyone know anything about the Mad Dog clutches on ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...8793186&rd=1,1

lt197formula

iTrader: (6)

Also running the RAM powergrip, and then there is the powergrip hd which might suit your needs better. 9k+ miles on my h/c/bolton car and the clutch is holding up great, plenty of 5k+ drops but it just blows the tires off lol. I found the best price on a RAM clutch from Texas Speed & Performance.

Sweetred95ta

iTrader: (2)

I run a Spec Stage 3, and I haven't had any problems with it yet. I was having issues with it taking off (it felt like an on/off switch), but all that was resolved with a tune and a much lower gear in the rearend. No chatter or noise. All I've pulled with it so far was a 1.85 60 ft (was a stock rearend), but I plan on some pretty heavy clutch drops come spring time (now have a 9").

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

so what gear do you have in the rear that helped with that. because im worried about the "on/off" situation, i dont want the car to jerk everywhere everytime i start an easy acceleration.

Sweetred95ta

iTrader: (2)

I went from a 3.73:1 gear(I had an A4 in the car) to a 4.4:1 gear. Tuning made a big difference, too. Before the tuning, I couldn't hardly even take off without it wanting to bog or die. Either that, or I was leaving every stoplight with the back tires smoking.

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

how exactly does tuning the car effect the clutch's behavior?

Sweetred95ta

iTrader: (2)

Well, after I swapped in the M6, the timing and fuel were off at low rpm. When you have a stall, you can run a lot more timing and you don't have to really worry about the fueling (within reason) below where the stall stalls during normal driving. When I switched, I had to take some timing out of the timing table and had to take some fuel out as well; to fix problems you would never notice with a stalled A4.

harvickgm

iTrader: (10)

i have that Mad Dog clutch you are talking about.. but mine is only a bolt on lt1... but i took it to the track and was dumping the clutch at 3500rpm's... and it held up alright... now on a 383 might be different.. i have about 20K miles on this clutch as well.. .but for what you want to do i would say go with the Mcleod Twin Disk with the Steel FW... great combo...

94Z28Joe

I run the ram powergrip hd. It does good on the street and real good at the track.