LT1nitrouZ

So does anyone know how to rig up manual breaks on a 95 camaro cheap? I know I can get a brake booster off a vehicle that had manual brakes, but I dont know if any vehicle w/ manual brakes will work of if there are specific ones I need. Thanks for any help.

flyinZ

iTrader: (15)

TTT.

Im interested in doing this, but what do you do with all the vaccum hoses, and the vaccum operated parts? plug them off or what? How do you bleed,etc?

DADDY&GIRL93TA

The older cars didnt have brake boosters for manual brakes. Brake boosters were for power brakes only.On a 2nd gen f=body with power brakes you could just remove the power brake booster and use the same master cylinder or get one for a manual one for it.Just remove the booster and put the master cylinder where the booster was. and you was set.to really fine tune the brakes alot folks opted for a manual proportioning valve. Your car has ABS and theres ABS delete kits out there from vendors on here.If your driveing your car on the street i dont know why you would want manual brakes.Unless it was a full time track car.

Razor_Blade

iTrader: (8)

I believe you could use a manual master cylinder from an S-10 truck. The problem is that it will not bolt to the firewall. I don't know of anyone that sells the adapter individually, so you might have to draw something up and have it cut out at a fab shop. The firewall of the fourth gen is so flimsy that it will flex under the force of pushing down on manual brakes, so you will need to rig up some kind of support to strengthen it.

I've made a few of my own parts, but I'm leaning towards the kit on this one due to the importance of the brakes working right.

LT1Falcon

iTrader: (3)

for what its worth, i have manual brakes and i love em. i have 4 wheel disc brakes which made it hard to find a master cylinder that could move enough fluid for 4 discs and work without a booster. i ended um using a MC off a 1970 corvette which came with all around discs and no booster. just got it at advance for like $40. you can tell there is no booster but its not hard to stop. my car is a little lighter than you guys though. i like manual brakes and manual steering because i live in west virginia and if im on top a couple mile long hill i just put it in nuetral and turn the motor off. infinity miles to the gallon. plus more road feel. parking lots suck tho

mcssmostwanted

iTrader: (4)

got any pics of this?

LT1Falcon

iTrader: (3)

not handy but there is not much to see. it bolts to the firewall in the stock location. i had to drill holes in different places and modify the clevice on the pedal, and of course run different brake lines which needed done anyway. i dont think picks of my setup in a Falcon would help you f body guys

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

We sell a kit to go to manual brakes. The one pictured above is a knock off of our kit. Here is more info on our kit.

http://www.burkhartchassis.com/fbodycomponets.html

95camaro383

strange sells manaul brakes for a camaro whick elminates the abs sh*t under the hood

Dave J

iTrader: (2)

I have that one and its crap
I have to pump the **** out of the brakes to build enough line pressure for the linelock to hold

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

JakesZ28: If you make one more reply about selling items here, your account will be banned permanently. Final warning.

gold98Z28

iTrader: (7)

i havent went manual on a fouth gen yet. but i did ABS delete. i used a S10 manual master cylinder on several third gens. to do the abs delete for cheap, get a porportion valve off a non abs vehicle and plumb your lines to it. no need for that big abs delete block, as i did it to get rid of weight anyway so i would not have bought it regardless. you also have the option of getting an adj proportional valve for about 60-80 bucks and can adjust the brake bias front to rear as you wish. this is nice if you run skinnies.

TT632

iTrader: (3)

Looks good, what push rod do you use with it?

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

The pushrod is designed in combination with the bore on the master to give the correct volume and force for a 4th gen. It does need to be relocated 1" above the factory stud for alignment and pedal effort.