Daez

What cam specs, or specific cam setup should I be looking for if I primarily want power for the highway/roll races? 114k on the clock, Lt1, mods in sig. I think I need to change the lifters on this car, so I'm going to throw in a cam while I'm at it I don't go to the track much, and I live in open highway texas, so I would rather have a cam that does well on highway, I don't care about street-ability(it's my DD, but I can deal as long as it's not going to kill my car).. I want something decently big, help me understand the numbers.

Also, what type of springs/lifters will I need for a decently large cam, and what kinda numbers can I expect, maybe if there is a cam writeup around that would help too. thanks.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Basics...
You have duration, lift, and lobe seperation angle (or centerline).
Duration is how long the valves stay open for.
Lift is how much the valves open.
LSA is the angle between the lobes. The lower number will be a choppy idle, with alot of sputtering in the lower rpms cause it is set to get torque real quick. The higher the number, it is easier to take off with cause the torque doesn't kick in as intense.

If I missed anything, someone else finish it..

ws6togo

iTrader: (1)

I would add that you just need to find one that has a higher rpm band for peak HP. But that is gonna be hard because Not sure that your LTx motor will like the rpms. If you go with a high lift cam you will need better springs too !!

Daez

what are some typically, or comparable cams and thier specs? Any good kits you could suggest? (I'm looking for something bigger than the hotcam kit)

Daez

Is 400FWHP(Flywheel, not front wheel heh) possible with just a cam/springs/rockers etc.(and bolt-ons)possible on the lt1?

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

The Hot Cam kit will get you that. I put 320/325 down to the ground on my old Engine. After the math, it's a little over 400. Alot of people will have opinions on it, but it's a nice little streetable Cam for the price of that kit.

KWIK WS6

iTrader: (4)

with a4 do a 847 & 373's.

WS Sick

For roll races and highway power you need a cam that makes good torqueat 3000 rpm, and can climb as high as possible in each gear (with retraints)

with a cam that makes peak power with a stock motor at 6000 to 6500 rpm and has a very nice amount of toque at 3000 rpm, I would go with a cam in the 230 dur on the intake and more on the exhaust, lift those stock valves as much as possible.

The 847 would do a good job as would the CC306 for common cams.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

If you want to race from a roll get a T-56, with an a4, your at such a disadvantage its not even funny.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I beg to differ, I have pulled all kinds of manual cars in rolling starts...

streetwarrior96

Go with the COMP Cams XE 306.

I have XE 230/236 .544/.555 lift 112LSA

The torque on a T56 will be conciderably higher than a A4

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Yea, well I had a low 12 second 94 z28 that ran 113mph in the 1/2. I beat my fair share from a roll as well as at the track. But try racing any decent mph car and your screwed. Hell a cam only 02 z28 m6 running 420 rwhp easyily waxed me.

Any a4 with a decent stall sucks from a roll. Start racing real cars and you will see. Auto's are for the 1/4, Sticks are for the roll.

Going back to my friend with the freakish rwhp, he ran a best of 11.98 at 118 mph, I ran 12.084 at 113..... For a very long time Id beat him the quarter but if it was a race from a roll I was walked on.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

More to the point I will use this analogy.

Will a 305 make power when built, yes.

Is it the easiest way to do it, no.

Is there better ways to do it, Absolutely

Ls1Bait

I have the same duration and LSA as that cam but with bigger lift

Its a comp custom ground and love it, lots of power