LT1 M6 Shift Points
12-15-2006, 02:26 PM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LT1 M6 Shift Points Im just wondering when the shift points would be on an LT1 with the following mods: (I know many of the listed mods are irrelevant)
ASP Crank Pulley
Pro 5.0 Shifter
Hotchkis Stabilizer
Hotchkis Lower Control Arms & Panhard bar
K&N Filtercharger
Airfoil
4.10 gears
160deg Thermostat
Hooker Long Tube Headers
Hooker Y Pipe w/electronic cutout
LT4 Clutch and flywheel, installed less than 2,000 miles ago!
SLP 2OTL Exhuast
PCMforless Programming(tuned for 92octane)
Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft
MSD Ignition w/ Performance Plug Wires
Crane Gold 1.6RollerRockers
Manely Valve Springs
Titainium Retainers
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs
KYB Adjustable Shocks and Struts
Reason being, i just shift when it seems to get really loud... i have only had the car for about a month, so i dont have it down yet...
The MSD box has a chip in it for 6200 RPMS, but my tach (stock) seems to go well above that before i shift. I dont know if the tach is off or something, but it doesnt seem to redline until like 7k (not that i have tried to rev it up that high)...
ASP Crank Pulley
Pro 5.0 Shifter
Hotchkis Stabilizer
Hotchkis Lower Control Arms & Panhard bar
K&N Filtercharger
Airfoil
4.10 gears
160deg Thermostat
Hooker Long Tube Headers
Hooker Y Pipe w/electronic cutout
LT4 Clutch and flywheel, installed less than 2,000 miles ago!
SLP 2OTL Exhuast
PCMforless Programming(tuned for 92octane)
Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft
MSD Ignition w/ Performance Plug Wires
Crane Gold 1.6RollerRockers
Manely Valve Springs
Titainium Retainers
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs
KYB Adjustable Shocks and Struts
Reason being, i just shift when it seems to get really loud... i have only had the car for about a month, so i dont have it down yet...
The MSD box has a chip in it for 6200 RPMS, but my tach (stock) seems to go well above that before i shift. I dont know if the tach is off or something, but it doesnt seem to redline until like 7k (not that i have tried to rev it up that high)...
12-15-2006, 02:48 PM
#2
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Aztec, NM
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would say set your shift light a 5800 rpm. That way when you actually see it and start to shift it will hit about 6000-6100 rpm. I would use your factory tach readings even though they are usually off a little bit.
12-15-2006, 04:35 PM
#4
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 686
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by GreatWhiteZ28
It alwayds seemed like the stock cubed LT1s stoped pulling around 5,200...and to me anything after 5,200 seems like watsed momentum
12-15-2006, 10:17 PM
#6
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
m6 with a 230-236 cam shifting at 6000. get the car on a dyno, see where you make your peak hp and peak torque, **** at your peak hp and try to land in your peak tq. this has worked best for me, still want a manual valve body turbo 400 though. haha good luck
12-15-2006, 10:33 PM
#7
i always thought it was best to shift after peak HP, you are still making HP and it sets you up for higher RPM in the next gear. met a guy at the drag strip with a z28 that was identical to my TA as far as bolt ons. he even had the same name as me (mike smith, big rarity there). anyway, i always got him by less then a tenth , every time, by shifting a tad higher.
