steel braided fuel lines for the LT1
12-15-2006, 04:47 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
steel braided fuel lines for the LT1 Hey guys, does anyone know if there is a steel braided line that has the stock LT1 fuel line quick disconnect on it. I want to replace my return and EVAP hard lines becasue I had to bend them around my SFCs, so they don't line up properly and they look bad. Anyone know of a company that makes them? Thanks
12-16-2006, 11:37 AM
#6
Here is another thread that I posted in concernig this issue. I have done this mod to my car using the Pure Choice fittings. Anyway, here is the thread and here is the information from my post.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearance-detailing/570128-lt1-guys-relocating-fuel-rail-lines.html
Here is mine, I just came up with something on my own. I have a write-up about it that I can post for you.
To complete the fuel line and the EVAP line delete modification, I used Pure Choice Motorsports (www.performanceplumbing.com) fuel line AN fitting adapters (part #5800) to adapt the -6AN fittings to the fuel rail feed and return line and also to adapt the -6AN fittings and braided lines to the hard lines under the car. The Pure Choice fittings slid right on the fuel rail but for the hard lines under the car, I had to use some very fine sandpaper and then some fine steel wool to get them to slide on. I don’t really know why this is, because they are the same style line fittings. I don’t know if it as just because of all of the buildup from the road grime, salt, sand and etc., but that it what was done to get them on. After removing the driver’s side inner fender, you expose the stock fuel lines and you can easily remove them and the EVAP line. The EVAP line runs with the stock fuel lines from a hard connection beside them under the car on the driver’s side to the intake manifold where it separates and attaches to a module and vacuum line. I simply removed the EVAP module and the lines completely, used plugs to plug the extra openings in the intake and used a rubber cap to cap off the hard line under the car next to the fuel lines. You will throw a code on this but I was going to have a tune done anyway so I just had it tuned out. This really cleans up the engine bay once you delete the fuel lines also. Next, I found a good spot to run the new braided feed and return lines in the inner fender, where the would exit just below the master cylinder. I drilled two holes next to each other just large enough to get the lines through and then used rubber grommets to protect the fuel lines. I attached the lines to the fuel rail after routing them over the top of the master cylinder and then routed them under the car using the location of the stock fuel lines. I then cut the lines to length and attached the last AN fittings and attached them to the hard lines under the car. I have pretty good pictures of all of the lines mounted under the car at this link if you would like to reference them http://img212.exs.cx/gal.php?g=benscar9mx.jpg.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearance-detailing/570128-lt1-guys-relocating-fuel-rail-lines.html
Here is mine, I just came up with something on my own. I have a write-up about it that I can post for you.
To complete the fuel line and the EVAP line delete modification, I used Pure Choice Motorsports (www.performanceplumbing.com) fuel line AN fitting adapters (part #5800) to adapt the -6AN fittings to the fuel rail feed and return line and also to adapt the -6AN fittings and braided lines to the hard lines under the car. The Pure Choice fittings slid right on the fuel rail but for the hard lines under the car, I had to use some very fine sandpaper and then some fine steel wool to get them to slide on. I don’t really know why this is, because they are the same style line fittings. I don’t know if it as just because of all of the buildup from the road grime, salt, sand and etc., but that it what was done to get them on. After removing the driver’s side inner fender, you expose the stock fuel lines and you can easily remove them and the EVAP line. The EVAP line runs with the stock fuel lines from a hard connection beside them under the car on the driver’s side to the intake manifold where it separates and attaches to a module and vacuum line. I simply removed the EVAP module and the lines completely, used plugs to plug the extra openings in the intake and used a rubber cap to cap off the hard line under the car next to the fuel lines. You will throw a code on this but I was going to have a tune done anyway so I just had it tuned out. This really cleans up the engine bay once you delete the fuel lines also. Next, I found a good spot to run the new braided feed and return lines in the inner fender, where the would exit just below the master cylinder. I drilled two holes next to each other just large enough to get the lines through and then used rubber grommets to protect the fuel lines. I attached the lines to the fuel rail after routing them over the top of the master cylinder and then routed them under the car using the location of the stock fuel lines. I then cut the lines to length and attached the last AN fittings and attached them to the hard lines under the car. I have pretty good pictures of all of the lines mounted under the car at this link if you would like to reference them http://img212.exs.cx/gal.php?g=benscar9mx.jpg.
12-16-2006, 07:08 PM
#7
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did the same as above, and the same on 3 other cars of ours, the cheapest way to do it is to get the fuel line repair kit from a-zone or others, one that is the 3/8" and one 5/16", as far as evap, ill post pics as to how i did that as well, EVAP is the only emissions i kept since i tuned 2 out, and ran sims, i cant tune 3 out or ill fail inspection. Here are the pics of my set-up, i filled in the ds hole where the fuel lines come out so its cleaner, also i am running a ram air setup as well and will have a stainless radiator support before its done as well as fuel rail covers. Re-routing the harness and the fuel lines really cleans up the engine bay.
Last edited by zlover129; 01-08-2007 at 09:21 PM.
Trending Topics
12-16-2006, 11:08 PM
#8
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Champaign, Illinois
Posts: 536
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have been wanting to do that, but have put it off since I am stuck at school. I think it is a must for our engine bays since it clears off a huge area of crap running through.
^^Nice by the way.
^^Nice by the way.
12-17-2006, 09:43 AM
#10
Originally Posted by 9formula4
where did you tuck the harness at? I have been wanting to do this since my motor is out.
12-17-2006, 11:06 AM
#11
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by n2oblkz
Then now is the best time to do it. I did the wire mod, which can be located here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173263
12-17-2006, 12:20 PM
#13
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by n2oblkz
Mine is an OBDII car also, so I just made the hole a little bigger and kind of forced the connector through. I just didn't want to cut and splice any wires.
12-17-2006, 01:57 PM
#14
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Champaign, Illinois
Posts: 536
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is there anywhere you can relocate the red box on the passenger side of the engine bay. I'm planning on doing the wire mod as i went out and bought the hole bit and double side tape or velcro, i can't remember which. It would be nice if you could clean everything off that side.
12-17-2006, 02:06 PM
#15
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by PunishedU
Is there anywhere you can relocate the red box on the passenger side of the engine bay. I'm planning on doing the wire mod as i went out and bought the hole bit and double side tape or velcro, i can't remember which. It would be nice if you could clean everything off that side.
12-17-2006, 05:30 PM
#16
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
that looks great, but i just want to replace the entire hardline, not the plastic return and evap line in the engine bay, but the hard line that it connects to under the car, heres a pic of what i mean, http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j9...t/bdc18e14.jpg
see how the lines are all out of shape, becasue i had to bend them to fit around my SFC and the A1000 is in the way too, I just need some braided steel lines that have the quick disconnect ends so I can just run them along side of my supply line, I need about 6 feet.
see how the lines are all out of shape, becasue i had to bend them to fit around my SFC and the A1000 is in the way too, I just need some braided steel lines that have the quick disconnect ends so I can just run them along side of my supply line, I need about 6 feet.
12-17-2006, 09:14 PM
#17
Originally Posted by PunishedU
Is there anywhere you can relocate the red box on the passenger side of the engine bay. I'm planning on doing the wire mod as i went out and bought the hole bit and double side tape or velcro, i can't remember which. It would be nice if you could clean everything off that side.
I moved it off of mine, actually just popped it loose, wrapped it very very well and slid it into the fender behind teh coolant bottle.
not the best pics of it, but hope it helps, now I just need ot do this fuel line mod!!
12-18-2006, 01:06 PM
#18
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (53)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Monticello, Kentucky
Posts: 4,433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by n2oblkz
Here is another thread that I posted in concernig this issue. I have done this mod to my car using the Pure Choice fittings. Anyway, here is the thread and here is the information from my post.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=570128
Here is mine, I just came up with something on my own. I have a write-up about it that I can post for you.
To complete the fuel line and the EVAP line delete modification, I used Pure Choice Motorsports (www.performanceplumbing.com) fuel line AN fitting adapters (part #5800) to adapt the -6AN fittings to the fuel rail feed and return line and also to adapt the -6AN fittings and braided lines to the hard lines under the car. The Pure Choice fittings slid right on the fuel rail but for the hard lines under the car, I had to use some very fine sandpaper and then some fine steel wool to get them to slide on. I don’t really know why this is, because they are the same style line fittings. I don’t know if it as just because of all of the buildup from the road grime, salt, sand and etc., but that it what was done to get them on. After removing the driver’s side inner fender, you expose the stock fuel lines and you can easily remove them and the EVAP line. The EVAP line runs with the stock fuel lines from a hard connection beside them under the car on the driver’s side to the intake manifold where it separates and attaches to a module and vacuum line. I simply removed the EVAP module and the lines completely, used plugs to plug the extra openings in the intake and used a rubber cap to cap off the hard line under the car next to the fuel lines. You will throw a code on this but I was going to have a tune done anyway so I just had it tuned out. This really cleans up the engine bay once you delete the fuel lines also. Next, I found a good spot to run the new braided feed and return lines in the inner fender, where the would exit just below the master cylinder. I drilled two holes next to each other just large enough to get the lines through and then used rubber grommets to protect the fuel lines. I attached the lines to the fuel rail after routing them over the top of the master cylinder and then routed them under the car using the location of the stock fuel lines. I then cut the lines to length and attached the last AN fittings and attached them to the hard lines under the car. I have pretty good pictures of all of the lines mounted under the car at this link if you would like to reference them http://img212.exs.cx/gal.php?g=benscar9mx.jpg.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=570128
Here is mine, I just came up with something on my own. I have a write-up about it that I can post for you.
To complete the fuel line and the EVAP line delete modification, I used Pure Choice Motorsports (www.performanceplumbing.com) fuel line AN fitting adapters (part #5800) to adapt the -6AN fittings to the fuel rail feed and return line and also to adapt the -6AN fittings and braided lines to the hard lines under the car. The Pure Choice fittings slid right on the fuel rail but for the hard lines under the car, I had to use some very fine sandpaper and then some fine steel wool to get them to slide on. I don’t really know why this is, because they are the same style line fittings. I don’t know if it as just because of all of the buildup from the road grime, salt, sand and etc., but that it what was done to get them on. After removing the driver’s side inner fender, you expose the stock fuel lines and you can easily remove them and the EVAP line. The EVAP line runs with the stock fuel lines from a hard connection beside them under the car on the driver’s side to the intake manifold where it separates and attaches to a module and vacuum line. I simply removed the EVAP module and the lines completely, used plugs to plug the extra openings in the intake and used a rubber cap to cap off the hard line under the car next to the fuel lines. You will throw a code on this but I was going to have a tune done anyway so I just had it tuned out. This really cleans up the engine bay once you delete the fuel lines also. Next, I found a good spot to run the new braided feed and return lines in the inner fender, where the would exit just below the master cylinder. I drilled two holes next to each other just large enough to get the lines through and then used rubber grommets to protect the fuel lines. I attached the lines to the fuel rail after routing them over the top of the master cylinder and then routed them under the car using the location of the stock fuel lines. I then cut the lines to length and attached the last AN fittings and attached them to the hard lines under the car. I have pretty good pictures of all of the lines mounted under the car at this link if you would like to reference them http://img212.exs.cx/gal.php?g=benscar9mx.jpg.
Hey I'm thinking about doing this too. I went to the Pure Choice website but didn't see PN 5800. Do these adapters just push onto the fuel rail fittings and allow you to thread the -6 AN fittings on those? I just don't want to have to cut anything.
12-18-2006, 01:29 PM
#19
Originally Posted by dhdenney
Hey I'm thinking about doing this too. I went to the Pure Choice website but didn't see PN 5800. Do these adapters just push onto the fuel rail fittings and allow you to thread the -6 AN fittings on those? I just don't want to have to cut anything.