Rothman

iTrader: (4)

Drivers side head was leakin coolant onto my headers when heated and under pressure. I just retorqued both heads, the drivers side was only about 5 ftlbs off. Using commetics with copper spray BTW. Do you guys think that 5ftlbs is enough to allow a leak or should I look elsewhere? They were not leaking untill I put a few miles on it. I don't want to put everything back together unless I'm fairly sure that It won't leak again.

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

Assuming you're running aftermarket head bolts that aren't torque-to-yield design, then I'd say no issue...as long as you followed the recommended torquing sequence.

It used to be common practice with engines to re-torque the head bolts after a heat cycle or two.

You might want to add a pellet or two of cooling system sealant for good measure, but if it still leaks after this you'll be removing the head(s).

Rothman

iTrader: (4)

Well I threw some liquid aluminum coolant stop leak in and put it back together. Doesn't seem to leak anymore but I'm going to keep an eye on it.


Thanks!

pdd

iTrader: (3)

good luck with it

racecar

Leaking gaskets, Ouch. I try to avoid sealers in the radiator because they can plug up other things. Retorque was a common practice with high compression small blocks. As the above post said, if you are using an aftermarket bolt, that should work. If you are re-using GM bolts all bets are off.
BTW, do you have a good torque wrench, I had a leak and found that the old low budget torque wrench was off by 15%.

HAMRHEAD

iTrader: (8)

Always retorque but after you do you should be fine even wit out adding the coolant stop leak

MiaSSmaro98

iTrader: (9)

rothman what bolts are you using?

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

He can't be using stock, there is no torque value. They are preloaded based on rotation, not torque.

Charlie@LsXperts

iTrader: (12)

once you take the stock bolts out you have to replace them, when they stretch they wont do anything again