CHRIZ28

iTrader: (15)

My question is about the little bushing like thing in the bolt hole of the rod cap. The factory bolts are held in there by these. Do I need to press the bolts and bushing thing out of the rods for the new ARP's to fit? Thanks.

Chris

P.S. I've already read all the stuff about the distortion of rod caps. Just asking how to get the bolts in there.

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

Pull bolt out. Put new bolt in. Done.

CHRIZ28

iTrader: (15)

Not quite. I had to thread the stock bolt out of the rod cap. Looked in the cap and there's a little bushing thing about a 1/4" deep in the hole. The ARP bolt drops in the hole perfectly backwards (the part of the hole that doesn't have the bushing). I went back and looked at them again after starting this thread. The stock bolts don't have shoulders at the head of the bolt. The ARP's do. I guess these just pop out and the ARP's go in there w/o the bushings. Just want someone to clarify so I don't screw up my rods. Thanks.

Chris

blackn2oss

iTrader: (6)

i just changed mine out i screwed the old one out and the the new arp's. after i finished i let my car run for bout 30 min with no sounds. so i guess that the way it susposed to be done!

CHRIZ28

iTrader: (15)

Did you screw your bolt all the way in with your hand first? Mine won't even start with my hand. Did your factory bolts have a raised section under the bolt head? Maybe there's some difference with the years. Mine is a 2000 Ls1. Dunno??? Any help appreciated. Seems like I've heard of these little bushings before, but searched everything I could think of but couldn't find it. Gotta be something. When you took yours out did you have to back your factory bolts all the way out with a ratchet, or did they come loose in the cap after unthreading them in the rod? Mine come loose from the rod, then flop around in the cap, but won't come all of the way out due to this little thing. I had to use the ratchet to take the bolt completely out of the cap. Any help greatly appreciated.

Chris

blackn2oss

iTrader: (6)

yes i had to use a ratchet to screw mine out and to screw the new arp's in.

CHRIZ28

iTrader: (15)

What year is your LS1?

blackn2oss

iTrader: (6)

2001.

CHRIZ28

iTrader: (15)

o.k. That makes since. There's probably a difference in the years. So you had to use a ratchet to start your new ARP bolts into the rod "cap", the bolts didn't just slide straight into the cap and then screw into the rod? You screwed the bolt into the cap, then the bolt got loose in the cap and restarted into the rod and then you got to torque the bolt to the rod? Sounds funny to me. The part under the head of the ARP bolt is noticable larger than the factory. What kind of ARP bolts did you buy? I've got the 2000's or whatever they're called. Thanks.

Chris

blackn2oss

iTrader: (6)

yes i had to screw the arp's into the rod cap. they didnt just slide through and yes mine had a noticeable shoulder on them. the arp bolts i have is the pro series bolts. thunder racing part number 113-234-6301. hope this helps.

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

I'll ask my buddy that did them for me - mine is a 2000.

CHRIZ28

iTrader: (15)

Thanks, afraid to just force the ARP's in there without knowing for sure.

Chris

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

remove the ferrul, if you dont the rod end will come off and destroy your motor.

CHRIZ28

iTrader: (15)

Cool, so the little piece in there does come out. I guess just thread the bolt backwards and push the ferrule out. Thanks Cop Car. Maybe the rest of this build will go smooth. Cant wait to hear her run again. Thanks for everyones help, walking a newbie through an LS1 build couldn't be much fun.

Chris

Quick Double Nickel

iTrader: (5)

The rods are definitely different between years. I have a set out of a '98 that do not have the sleeve in them and a set out of an '01 Z06 that do have them. I'm using the same ARP rod bolts (non pro series) and with the '98 rods they will thread in without and problem. But with the '01 rods the sleeve prevents the top part of the shank near the head of the bolt from fully seating against the rod and will not allow for an accurate reading of the torque of the bolt. This will end up in failure like Cop Car said. I just plan to remove the sleeve from two of the '01 rods by pounding it out with an old bolt threaded into the sleeve.

blackn2oss

iTrader: (6)

ok now u got me worried but my car. how would tell if the sleves are ine the rod caps?

CHRIZ28

iTrader: (15)

I guess the only way would be pull the bolt out and look into the hole where the bolt goes in and you'll see a little sleeve inside. And if you have to thread your bolt into the cap (does not just fall through the cap w/o resistance) you probably still have them in there. I just used an old bolt and threaded it into the ferrule inside/out and knocked the ferrule out. Pretty easy. ARP's install easily after that.

Chris

GMC_DUDE

I'm in the process of replacing mine with Katech bolts, and if I don't remove that bushing, the bolt stops at about 1/4" out. Scared me until I read this thread.

Greg_E

iTrader: (4)

Yes that's an important detail. The instructions on Katech's website now tell you to remove the "feral". If you have the ferrules, and not all LS1's do, you can remove them by backing out the stock rod bolt until it is only threaded into the ferrule. Then wiggle and pull the bolt at the same time, and the ferrule will come out on the bolt.
To the guys that have taken the rod cap off to tap out the ferrule: I thought you were not supposed to remove the cap unless you are replacing the rod bearings. I was told that you should replace one bolt at a time, leaving the rod cap in place.

kawasakiklx

iTrader: (8)

What lube is recommended and how many times do you torque it with that lube?

FYI: Only place I have available is Kragen.

torque is 40lb for the arp2000, right?

Do you guys rotate the motor for ease of install or just leave everything as is?