mpsoldier

iTrader: (3)

i have a 00 Trans Am, M6
my set up first.
SSRA, Lid, ORX into Bassani 2.5 true duals.
will be switching to either LS6 or fast 90/90, and kooks LTs. I won't change out the gears untill I get a 12 bolt, why waste money on the stocker right?

This is my only car, my DD with 39k miles. I don't race but im lookin for a jump in power.

I rarely get stuck in stop and go, but I want drivablity to be nice, no bucking or serging after a nice tune.

I want power down low up to about 6400-6600, Rough idle is a plus. would love to hear it "crack"

Well my idea so far is Patriot Ported 243s and the TSP torquer V3 231/234 .643"/.598" 111 LSA

but after reading post after post, Im just becoming more confused about the right cam for me, I've listened to a lot of setups and hearing guys that got a 224/224 saying they wish they went bigger.

Should a street car stay under .600" lift? about 12k miles a year
Any input would be great.

and also is a ported oil pump worth while? is my stock one really that bad, I hold about 45psi at idle.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

if you in their why not step op to a ported pump.
a 90/90 set up will mover your power band higher in the rpms.
why not save some $$ and getthe h/c combo from tsp they have the same style head you looking for, just seams better to have the parts coming from one place then ten, know what i mean?

a 231/234 on a 111 lsa im assuming a 111ica (no advance ground in) wont have as much low end power as say stock, but over 3k you will know you have a cam.

read about pat g cam 224/228 xer lobes on a lower lsa with some advance a lot of people are going to that size range of cam, it has good low end and good top end with the shifts you looking for.

the higher duration on the intake and exhaust and the bigger lsa the higher up your power band would be.

a 233/239 on a 112 would have a higher powerband then a 224/224 on a 112
now a 224/224 112+4 would have a lower powerband then a 224/224 112

advancing a cam makes the power sooner, why have a cam that makes the bigger numbers at a higher rpm that you will never use with that 6400-6600rpm shift point. in your case that cam would be to big unless you advance it, and it still might not be ideal

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

that cam is going to buck and surge like a 2 cent *****, fight for an idle even with a good tune and only be useable at a high RPM which almost makes that cam totally useless because your not doing gears right now. by the time you get the RPM's in the power band you will be going so fast you have to slow down. and forget the 1/4 without lower gears your 1/4 mile times wont be justified for the $$$ involved.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

and anything over a .600 lift your almost certinally going to have to flycut the pistons to avoid hitting the valves.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

that is very very untrue

Dr. Jeckel

iTrader: (12)

I decided on torquer 2 after much debate and decision making.

Be completely honest with yourself about what you want from the car.

If you truly just want a "power bump" and you don't race , then a cam that has more torque would be funner on the street. 224R or 228R would be great choices.

A car that would see track time and racing, it would be better to go bigger.


yep, untrue!!!! if you are milling the heads, then yes some bigger cams with require flycutting

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

if you looking to DD this car and not have to fight with it everywhere you go my reccomendation wound be a TR 224/224 on a 114 or 112 and the heads you picked out, along with all the supporting mods (springs, pushrods, retainers, etc....) and your LS6 intake and full exhaust. that would be a wicked DD/SS combo that *should* if you get a new rear with gears and DR's get you in the very low 12's and with a 100 shot or so be in the 11's easy.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

this is good, but you have to remember this is his DD. a wild cam is going to be a bitch to fight with on the street. every stopsign, traffic light or dumbass in the middle of the road is going to send that bitch straight to her period. its going to have low vacuum at idle which means a chance of bad braking issues. i couldnt imagine driving that torquer v3 daily. if it werent a DD i would say go bigger, you wouldnt have to deal with it constantly, and the track needs would outweigh the reliability needs.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

i see now. the bigger valved aftermarket heads require fly cutting.

00LS1SS

If your not planning on racing at the track get the 4:10's in your *** end, you'll love 'em and they'll last along time if you dont have sticky tires.

marv

iTrader: (40)

Mp, check my sig for what I am running and what power I am making. Basically it's the CNC'ed LS6 heads from TSP with their 233/239 cam. Also, you can do a search under my user name and find my dyno graph as well.

As some have stated, the power band is shifted towards the top, but that is expected. Had this setup on the car for about 7K miles now and never had a problem. Sometimes drive the car 400 miles a week (110 miles roundtrip to work), in highway and city conditions.

Car never surges, struggles for an idle or bucks in stop and go traffic. The ONLY surging I see is if I lug it at highway speeds, which is true with a lot of cars.

No flycutting either btw. Idle is not the roughest out there, but there is a noticeable chop. Concerning the oil pump, you're gonna be in there, might as well change it while you're at it. That was my thoughts anyways...one less thing to worry about later. Went with the ported LS6 and LS2 chain myself.

I think you'd be happy with this setup. Drives nice, makes good power and performs very well. Best of luck with your decision and let me know if you have any questions!

Bww...not to bust on you, but I think you need to dust off that search button and read up. Some of those statements you made were off a bit.

Dr. Jeckel

iTrader: (12)

Mine is a DD also. Read a few posts about driveability from people with bigger cams. I agree the T3 or Trex cams would not be everyones cup-of-tee and are probably not recommended for a DD, but everything else is managable(IMO). If your car is having that much trouble after a tune then find a new tuner. I have personally seen and talked with a friend who has the MS4 and daily drives it. The only problems he has mentioned is slight surging when trying to accelerate from 1400-1600rpm while in like 5th gear.

I had a Hotcam, 3500 stall, plus other things in my old TA. Just me tuning it with LS1edit got the car to be quite easy to drive around everyday and I am just the run of the mill do-it-yourselfer who figured it out with others help.

Its been said and I will say it again; "It is all in the tune."

mpsoldier

iTrader: (3)

just because i don't race doesn't mean i don't know how to have fun I just don't streetrace other cars, and i'll probably only see the track once or twice a year.

patriot is having a deal on there ported 243s right now. thats why i want to buy separatly

what i honestly want out of it.
I just don't want the bucking in low rpms that would **** anybody off.
I want a nice choppy idle, i know thats not all that matter but its part of the fun of having a cam, for me anyways.
I want decent power down low, but still pull hard up top. and set my limiter to about 6700, peak power about 6400-6600

whats everybodys opinon on the Futural F10 228/228 .576.576 on a 112 no advance

brokeTA

iTrader: (9)

I daily drive an ms4 in my 347 with 13-1 compression. Only thing I can bitch about besides gas mileage (and its not that bad 19 on the hwy) is the shake of the car at an idle. I pull up to a stop sign and its on 1k steady as a rock. I can lug it to about 1700 on the hwy and not have problems in 6th gear.

Dr. Jeckel

iTrader: (12)

With those stipulations I would not go over the 233/239. I plan to shift my T2(112 0*adv) at 6500rpm with rev limiter at 6700rpm. I fully expect that after Jason at TSP gets done tuning the car that, aside from the idle, the car will drive the same as before the cam

Not real sure on the futural cams, but the TSP 228R would be a great DD and make excellent power. It was the cam that I was almost for sure getting until I changed my mind and wanted a little bigger

I read tons of posts, multiple times, before I made my decision. Just make sure you have a good tuner who is proven to do good work and knows his stuff.

SSwanner

iTrader: (128)

why all the hate with "slightly" bigger cam(s)?

if a tuner is that bad then you need to find a new one.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

i have determined that bww3588 has no idea what he is talking about.

to the author of this post: run a search for partrick g's torque cam - this appears to be the cam you want. if you want something a little tamer, you could always knock a few degrees off the duration. don't let the "low" duration numbers fool you, use of the lsk lobes adds ~ 4* duration to the .50 value.

Oh4GTO

iTrader: (46)

I daily drive an MS4 as well in my fat goat. Only thing the car doesnt like is cruising with the RPMs below 1500. I get better mileage now than I did with my TR224. The car makes about 320 lbs-ft at 3000RPM and thats more than enough. I can brake loose very easy with this car. When I do this again, Ill get something will less duration and lower LSA and probably advance it 2*. Dont be afraid of big. My tuner spent 6 hours on my car (Jeremy Formato) and this thing drives like stock other than what I mention previously. Just be aware that the TSP Torquer cams dont exactly live up to their name. The MS3 has been around a while and put down great numbers. You can read a lot of results with that cam over at the Vette forum.

mpsoldier

iTrader: (3)

I looked up everybodys cam advice, and I took the advice of contacting patrick G. glad I did, we came up with cam numbers for me and I think I'm going to be extremely pleased with the results, can't wait to order and get it in.

228/236 .588/.602” 110LSA +2 advance

Fratsit

iTrader: (1)

Your assumptions as to the driveability of the Torquer 3 are not true. It idles fine, no bucking, and vacuum is not an issue. If you want I will fire her up and log the MAP sensor and let you know what vacuum is at idle. I have never had a problem with braking. While I never logged vacuum with the stock cam I am sure I gave some up, however, it has never been an issue.

Even before I started the tune it started right up and fell to an 800rpm idle. It did not stall out a stop lights either. Like the saying goes... "its all in the tune".

R/

Frat