sewing machine sound after cam?
#1
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sewing machine sound after cam?
So i'm curious is there a way to reduce the sewing machine sound under my hood???
I have a 98 C5 with a 228R cam, LT's , LS6 intake, Z06 ti's, UD pulley Stock head/block, harden push rod (stock length) LS6 oil pump,
I have oil pressure... sometime enough to make me nervous about blowing the sensor..
I turn my car off at most drive ups, (bank, mcd etc) because they can't hear me over the car.. and dont' get me wrong i love the sound of my car... but at the sametime if i could reduce the the noise under the hood by upgrading some internals i'm all ears...
I have a 98 C5 with a 228R cam, LT's , LS6 intake, Z06 ti's, UD pulley Stock head/block, harden push rod (stock length) LS6 oil pump,
I have oil pressure... sometime enough to make me nervous about blowing the sensor..
I turn my car off at most drive ups, (bank, mcd etc) because they can't hear me over the car.. and dont' get me wrong i love the sound of my car... but at the sametime if i could reduce the the noise under the hood by upgrading some internals i'm all ears...
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Most all LSX motors have that sewing machine noise... more aggressive valve-train/cam only enhances it.
Apparently there's a new caddy racing lifter that is a direct replacement and is prooving to really quiet things down.
Apparently there's a new caddy racing lifter that is a direct replacement and is prooving to really quiet things down.
#5
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Originally Posted by Cobra4B
Most all LSX motors have that sewing machine noise... more aggressive valve-train/cam only enhances it.
Apparently there's a new caddy racing lifter that is a direct replacement and is prooving to really quiet things down.
Apparently there's a new caddy racing lifter that is a direct replacement and is prooving to really quiet things down.
is it the heavier springs to keep up with the agressive valve train thats causing the noise or is it just the valve train it's self... I'm using far heavier springs than required for my application.
#6
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Originally Posted by Shinerbock07
are you sure you put in the correct length pushrods?
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I dont think our motors like such thick oil. I would run a 10W 40 Full Synthetic.
Sewing machine sounds are normal get use to them.
you should have gotten 7.400 pushrods with a 228 cam
Sewing machine sounds are normal get use to them.
you should have gotten 7.400 pushrods with a 228 cam
#9
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Originally Posted by MagiC5
Running 10w right now... and i think i might look into these lifters when i swap heads in the next couple of months....
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Did you measure for your pushrods? Aftermarket cams generally have a smaller base circle, and as such, to maintain the same lifter preload requires a longer pushrod. If you didn't measure you are guessing. This may be the source of the noise that you are describing that seems to be very loud and not necessary.
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you will need a longer pushrod than stock with an xer lobe, the base circle is smaller.i didn't know that until pred informed me.the best way is ofcourse to check but you will probably need 7.425 or longer to get the proper preload.i had a set of heads milled .030 so i thought i would need 7.350 but it sounded horrible so i put my 7.4s back in and it made a world of difference,i couldn't believe how much quieter it was.i didn't check preload but the 7.35s were definitely to short.i had a 228r also.i say get you a p-rod checker and find out exactly which ones you need and that will cure alot of your problems.
#11
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ok now i'm really curious... Sorry i can't remember exactly what length the rods are i know they are equals of stock which i believe is 7.4???
are you saying i need longer or shorter rods?
are you saying i need longer or shorter rods?
#12
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Originally Posted by MagiC5
ok now i'm really curious... Sorry i can't remember exactly what length the rods are i know they are equals of stock which i believe is 7.4???
are you saying i need longer or shorter rods?
are you saying i need longer or shorter rods?
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nothing is wrong with the factory rocker arms(1.7). It is one of the only pieces on the LS1 that some dont wanna change. Its balanced on both sides and isnt heavy. Many aftermarket rocker arms produce valve float which isnt good for the motor and kills performance BIG TIME.
#19
The ticking will go away-Or mostly go away after the springs are broken in. Now a days mine only ticks loud when its first started, then it warms up and you can barely hear them.
When i first installed my heads, it was a different story
When i first installed my heads, it was a different story
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dude.. Just get adjustable rockers and be done with it. that way you can keep your pushrods and adjust to whatever preload you want to keep the noise minimal. They are a bit pricey but convenient...