View Full Version : new camaro owner!!! few questions


camaro4me
01-14-2007, 12:19 PM
Ok guys I just bought a 2000 z28 with 86000 on the clock for 8900. here is the autotrader link if you want to see pics http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=214439955&dealer_id=1389658&search_type=both&keywordsfyc=&make=CHEV&transmission=Manual&model=CAM&distance=0&make2=&address=92647&default_sort=priceDESC&advanced=y&certified=&max_mileage=&max_price=12500&min_price=0&end_year=2007&color=&start_year=1999&drive=&engine=8+Cylinder&fuel=&doors=
Anyways, the car is great and runs strong, but there are a couple hickups that I want to work out.
-first, I was washing my car yesterday, and at the back of the T-Tops, it was leaking. it leaked right where that little plastic panel on the roof is over the hump for the driveshaft. How do I fix that?
-second, second gear doesnt quite want to cooperate with me. when shifting from first to second, if I wait in neutral for a slight second, it will slide in fine, but if I try to go directly into second, it feels like it is blocked or something. :bang:
-third, when I shift hard at high rpm's it almost sounds like I dont have the clutch in, but I do. I read about the drill mod, so I will do that, but is there anything else that will help that?

Thanks for the help guys, and I am so pumped about this car and ready to mod the hell out of it :drive:

bww3588
01-14-2007, 01:49 PM
for the t-tops, there is some silicone weather stripping lube that will help that. someone will chime in with the brand. i think its from the dealership. for your shift problem, do you have the skip shift eleminator? if not that will cause the transmission to lock out 2nd and 3rd gears under certian circunstances. (low RPM, Low water temp...). the drill mod and 01+ hydraulics will help with the hard shifting.

camaro4me
01-14-2007, 02:02 PM
awesome. Keep the help coming guys!!

camaro4me
01-14-2007, 06:31 PM
bump for some more answers

WannaBcamaroguy
01-14-2007, 06:36 PM
Off topic - Just wondering if that lube will also work with the window motors to keep from making noise and maybe lasting a little longer??

JD_AMG
01-14-2007, 06:50 PM
Also make sure the t-tops are on correctly, and the rubber is not 'pushed down' when you put the t-top on. Take it off and you'll see what Im talking about.

lsx24
01-16-2007, 10:36 AM
fbody cars from the factory came with skip shift eliminator, look it up that's probably what you are feeling not shifting into second. SLP makes a mod that you can buy to bypass it, or you can get it tuned out from a professional tuner.

As far as shifting at high rpms, are you sure the clutch is not going out? It very well could be the drill mod, but it might also be the clutch/trans on it's way out. See if you can have a mechanic drive it and see more closely what's up with it.

Swang
01-16-2007, 11:54 AM
fbody cars from the factory came with skip shift eliminator, look it up that's probably what you are feeling not shifting into second. SLP makes a mod that you can buy to bypass it, or you can get it tuned out from a professional tuner.


you mean it came with "CAGS" or "Skip Shift." The eliminator is what you can buy to eliminate it.

bww3588
01-16-2007, 12:16 PM
Off topic - Just wondering if that lube will also work with the window motors to keep from making noise and maybe lasting a little longer??
no this only lubes your weatherstripping and makes them seal better.

WS6.Jay
01-16-2007, 12:26 PM
I have the SLP skip shift eliminator if you want it i'll sell it to you for $20 shipped. It's still on my car but I don't need it anymore cause I got tuned last month and had the CAGS deleted. You might notice that in 1st and taking off from a light there is a light that comes on at the bottom right of the gauge cluster that says SKIP SHIFT and will force you to 3rd or 4th I can't remember, if you climb the RPM a little more(while in 1st) the light will go away and you are free to shift into 2nd. It's annoying I know.

About the shifting at higher RPM, try bleeding your clutch since that's the easiest thing 1st, make sure your clutch fluid level is up the entire time you bleed it. If that doesn't help you then it could either be your clutch or your clutch slave cylinder. If it's either one of those, you might as well do both at the same time because the tranny has to come out for both and you don't want to do that more then once. If you have to do it, make sure to go with the GM clutch slave(Fred Beans has some of the best pricing on GM parts). I will also cast my vote for the LS7 clutch because it's awesome, has been proven to 550hp setups, feels like stock because it is a stock clutch. It's awesome, i'll be getting the mcleod adjustable master cylinder here shortly because I am no cammed and I need the adjustability of it to keep from frying my clutch.

For the T-Top leak, I would ignore it. I have the same problem but it's only when you pressure wash it, just lay off the trigger on the t-tops. I have never had a leak in the rain, only when I pressure washed the car that first time.

Anyway, beautiful car you have there. I am partial to NBM because well my TA is NBM and my best friends Z28 is NBM. The billet grill looks fackin awesome on that color by the way :), just so you know.

SHINER
01-16-2007, 01:37 PM
Just get new weatherstripping for that side off a wrecked car, look in the for sale section and look for people "parting out" cars and grab one from there.

Also this is the bad news..sounds like your synchro's are bad for 2 and 3rd gear and needs to be brought to a tranny shop.

Does the car have a shirt throw shifter, or stock.


Some of the aftermarket shifters have to be adjusted for how short the "throw" is and sometimes ppl get to greddy and make it too short and that what might cause grinding, etc. becuase the gear is not all the way in.


Travis