jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

I have the thunderracing reverse split cam: 230/224 .575/.563 111 LSA
I have comp 918 springs, titanium retainers, and hardened pushrods too.
They all went in the car probably 50,000 to 60,000 miles ago. My car is a daily driver so most of the driving is just highway or easy around town driving, but i was just wondering if my valvespring could be worn out and need replacing or if anything would need adjusting. I went to HPE and the guy at the counter said it should still be fine and nothing needed to be done but I just wanted to make sure this is true or maybe when i should replace them in the future. thanks!
-Chris

Dandy Don

If the power isn't down, and misfiring isn't noticed then the valves are closing prorperly and that means the springs are doing their job. Weak springs generally are indicated by bouncing on the seat thus causing backfire (intake valve) or lower power (exhaust valve leaking).
Cheers.
DD

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

you could always buy another set of 918s, swap, and check the pressure on the original set. Then keep swapping every couple years.

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

well i've had it in so long and i drive it so often that i really havn't noticed if power is down. I mean it does feel like power is down a little bit from when the cam went in 3-4 years ago but i'm sure it could easily be in my head too.
Is it hard to change valvesprings yourself? I've never done it. I know there is a special tool people use but that's about it.
I've just done the easier mods myself like headers/exhaust, lid/TB, sparkplugs/wires, pulled axles for new studs, etc..., but this sounds quite a bit harder. i wonder if it would even be cheaper than getting shop to do it since i would need to buy that tool (forgot the cost)

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

i think the crane tool is like 180? may be mistaken on that. With that tool, I have heard it is not that bad.

Dandy Don

I believe you can rent the tool from places like Autozone ect. An air compressor is needed to hold pressure on the valves while changing out the springs, seals spring base and whatever else in worn/in need of replacing.
I think that there is a tutorial on how to do this in the (this is how it is done) section.
Good luck,
Don

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

the car has 70,000 miles on it. I dont think the seats would need to be changed, would they?
I read a write up and it wouldn't be bad except my air compressor is currently leaking so i'd have to fix it and then get the sparkplug extension from somewhere????
I found a good quality compressor tool for our cars for $30 shipped so that takes care of that!

Blk97WS6

iTrader: (19)

check out the f-body cam/spring install write-up on LS1howto.com

Its a very detailed write-up, with great pics to help.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Vinci High Performance has the Crane tool for around $79 or so, don't remember exactly but check thier specials>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


Personally, I would change them out. Valve springs are one thing you don't want to fail in order to figure out they needed to be changed, the resulting damage can be huge. The new springs are about $160 if you catch a sale in the vendor sale section.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like you're trying to find any excuse possible to talk yourself out of doing this job. It's not bad at all and the Tims's tools is just the ticket for someone with limited experience. All you need is a 1/4" drive ratchet to turn the nut. Don't use a 3/8", it's overkill. You don't need a compressor if you use the TDC method as you do the springs on each cylinder in pairs.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, its not worth chancing it. Get the 30 buck tool, replacement springs might only be around a hundred bucks, and should take less than 2 hours time. Better safe than sorry.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Well said sir!!! ... you certainly have gotten you moneys worth out of those springs on the car..change them out..I have 40,000 miles on a set ot PRC platnum springs and I am swaping them in the next week..

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

i've got all the tools for the TDC method, and I'm about to order Tim's tool so I'll be all set! Tim helped me out alot with some of the specifics i had about the TDC method, he's a good guy
thanks guys for convincing me that I can do this myself
Are there any extra parts yall get incase something goes wrong, like extra locks?

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

I would put some shop towels on the heads as you do the job. It's easy to drop one of the locks. You might want to go buy an extra lock just in case you lose one. If you have a spare on hand you probably won't drop one, but if you decide to try and get away without a spare chances are one will get away from you. I found using the Tim's tool I had to snug the nut fully when removing dual springs in order to get the retainer down far enough that I could remove the keepers with a magnet. A 1/4" drive rachet or a box rachet will work just fine on the Tim's tool nut. Either one of those two tools will provide just enough torque to get the nut fully tightened without stripping any threads which you might have a tendency to do if you use a larger 3/8" drive because of the extra torque the larger rachet provides. Just remember to alway use the built-in torque wrench in your wrist, elbow and shoulder when tightening fasteners. When one of them tells you something is getting too tight it probably is even if your mechanical torque wrench doesn't agree. This sort of thing comes with experience, but it is certainly something you can learn to apply even on something as simple as changing valve springs.