2Cool68

For the most part Im leaving the engine stock just a few bolt ons. The car is a 1968 RS Camaro and the engine and trans is a 2002 LS1 and 4L60E trans with only 33k miles.

Parts:
Ron Davis radiator
220/220 with a 116 LSA and a .581 lift Cam
Dart 205 heads
Hooker Super Comp LS1 engine swap headers for first gens.
3.73 gears in the rear 12 Bolt

With the basic parts listed above should I be putting in larger injectors? Am I REALLY blowing it by not switching out the stock intake, throttle-body and MAF? Ive been told that the gains dont justify the cost by changing the intake.

Im having Steve Heino at McGee's/Modern Performance do all the work, heres a link:
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...wap/index.html

Any thoughts or opinions I would appreciate.

SSwanner

iTrader: (128)

that list looks pretty good so far. you may want a few extras though, such as:
upgraded pushrods & valve springs (should be on the heads already) for the cam
port & polish throttle body
stall converter
.040" headgaskets for a compression bump
underdrive pulley

that should be about all you need for a solid buildup (that i can think of now)

2Cool68

Yeah the heads come with beehive springs good to 7k rpm and I'll have chromoly pushrods, new timing chain and sprockets and a ported LS6 oil pump, to cover all the basics.

Im going with a very mild stall torque converter just to be easier on the trans and be more streetable, I figure with the 3.73's it will launch ok already.

I hadnt thought of head gasket thickness but thanks for the heads-up.

Im not sure if Im getting underdrive pulleys or not. Im ordering up a complete March serpentine kit with brackets and pulleys and I believe they are underdrive but I could be wrong on that.

Thanks for the help. I'll take any and all opinions so keep'em coming!

gametech

iTrader: (1)

Advanced forum??

Lythropus

iTrader: (13)

Why the 116lsa and only 220 duration? This is going to be set up as a very tame street car?

If you don't have alot of extra money to throw around an ls6 intake is fine and should be fine with your combination, just save up for later...you're obviously not looking for huge numbers but more of a pleasure vehicle. Port and polish the throttle body, it's cheap, and keep the maf...you won't be making enough power for it to be a huge weak point.

mullenh

iTrader: (1)

he already has the ls6 intake. it is standard on 2001 and later models.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

Even on a "mild buildup" I'd run a bigger cam. I can't imagine going all out on heads and then staying so small on the cam. You may as well just buy an LS6 cam (which I wouldn't do either). 224/228 is small but has shown good results, 228/232 is better and is still tame. Don't go to small on the verter either. Remember, you have lockup. It's the edge of the board for the injectors; they may or may not be enough. Even if they don't go static, their duty cycle will be very high.

mullenh

iTrader: (1)

that is a great set up you will be very happy with it. the cam duration is perfect and you have a bit more lift. check and see what gasket thickness you can run to improve the squelch and up compression a bit. My guess is that a .040 gasket would be no problem at all unless you milled the head a lot. this package is going to give tremendous average power or power under the curve. a perfect street car.

2Cool68

Judging by what I see and what people are running here I called my mechanic and asked if the cam is a bit too tame and he said its going to run GREAT. This will be a daily driver car and will for the most part never see a track. He tells me that yes the cam could be bumped up to increase the hp/tq #'s but I might sacrifice some drive-ability. Head gasket will be the .040 gasket to get a slight bump to compression.

The new converter has a 2400rpm stall, from what I understand stock is around 1800 and I assume that 2400 is good for a street car.

Since I started this thread Ive switched from March serpentine to S&P. Looks to be better quality and way more complete. Plus some porting on the TB and MAF and they will be chromed too.

mullenh

iTrader: (1)

you have a good mechanic then

Infamous

Don't port the MAF. That's bad news and anyone here will advise you against that.

2Cool68

Maybe porting is the wrong word. The work thats being done to the MAF will allow it to be located very close to the TB not out next to the air filter. The battery was relocated in the trunk and I plan on having a large polished stainless "Y" pipe with K&N's on both sides behind each headlight.

Overkill? , most likely, look good and symetrical yes.

mullenh

iTrader: (1)

agreed

mullenh

iTrader: (1)

i did the same thing but mine are next to the head lights and acutually behind the grill

THE_SUPRA

gay/slow

THE_SUPRA

that was sarcasm

SimplyKC

iTrader: (1)

I want to see photos of this when it is installed and also know if you get any check engine lights or drivability issues. It sounds like a great solution for all LS1 conversion cars with minimal space up front.

s10-den

first post says pretty much stock,and you are throwing every-bolt on there is pretty much.Stock short block maybe

2Cool68

Well I guess you might be correct that "stock" might not be right word to use but to me if your not really changing the internals than its stock with a few bolt ons.

s10-den

I try that route all the time,dont work alot of the times.lol.it will make that camara fly.